Hospital Tank - Marine Ich

Hate the be the killjoy ofvthe thread, but copper has to be used at a very specific level in order for it to work. Anything under the effective amount, you may as well be spitting in the water.

This is the exact reason why no one recommended using it.
Thank you Bent!

I've read that too. But I am still afraid to go to high up on the copper levels. I will increase it slowly over the course of 72 days. I want the fish to get used to it slowly. I feel so bad doing that to then... If copper doesnt work I will just do hypo or TTM...
 
Thank you Bent!

I've read that too. But I am still afraid to go to high up on the copper levels. I will increase it slowly over the course of 72 days. I want the fish to get used to it slowly. I feel so bad doing that to then... If copper doesnt work I will just do hypo or TTM...

Hypo is the same way, you have to be very specific and very meticulous about the salinity for it to be effective.

TTM is pretty much the gold standard but nothing can really beat the simplicity of CP.

Your doing this the hard way IMO.
 
Copper Power is chelated copper and you need to make sure you are using the right test kit to measure for it. i believe you want to be using the API test kit for it.
You will need to get the concentration up to 2.5ppm and doing it slowly is the best way (3-5 days). once you get it to this therapeutic level is when the 30 day clock starts.
I personally like using copper safe since its known to have a wider range of therapeutic level therefore making it easier to work with.
Never use any prime or ammonia reducers with copper.
Copper is poison, plain and simple, and you don't want to over expose your fish to it so usually its best to raise it up within 3-5 days, maintain the correct level for 30 days and then remove it.
If you have a second qt tank that you can setup, you can take them out after 14 days in copper (therapeutic level) and transfer only the fish to another sterile qt. Only fish gets transferred and no equipment. The second qt should be at least 10' away from the first.
 
Copper Power is chelated copper and you need to make sure you are using the right test kit to measure for it. i believe you want to be using the API test kit for it.
You will need to get the concentration up to 2.5ppm and doing it slowly is the best way (3-5 days). once you get it to this therapeutic level is when the 30 day clock starts.
I personally like using copper safe since its known to have a wider range of therapeutic level therefore making it easier to work with.
Never use any prime or ammonia reducers with copper.
Copper is poison, plain and simple, and you don't want to over expose your fish to it so usually its best to raise it up within 3-5 days, maintain the correct level for 30 days and then remove it.
If you have a second qt tank that you can setup, you can take them out after 14 days in copper (therapeutic level) and transfer only the fish to another sterile qt. Only fish gets transferred and no equipment. The second qt should be at least 10' away from the first.
Thank you for your useful post!

Today is day 4 and I still have to add another 4ml to get to the therapeutic level.

My fish is doing great, eating aggressively, swimming naturally and only my dottyback still shows a very little bit of white spots. The Hawaiian Zebra Blenny doesn't show anything, and they are NOT trying to scratch against decorations anymore...

I think that's a good sign (although I know ich could be on the second stage, dropping off their bodies)...

I should raise the copper to therapeutic level tonight with the addition of another 5ml.

I have the fish in my 20g long hospital tank and will surely remove them from there after 14 days (counting from tomorrow and on).

I am medicating the food every other day with Metroplex + Focus, please share your thoughts about it

Thank you all!
 
Yes to specific levels, but just what is that, what the manufacture says?
Dosage is guided by salinity and temp and that varies from tank to tank.
The OP is doing the right thing by gradually increasing the dosage and watching what how the patient responds, it may take several days to bring the amount up to max, I always stop short of max and not exceed 90% of the reccommended, and in two cases, stopped about 70% when the Ick fell off.
After the Ick falls off, then I go to Hypo for 2 weeks, then bring the salinity up to norm slowly over the last week.
I think the OP is smart.
 
Your doing the right thing....go ahead and bring to correct level.
My post was not to say use less. I liked the way you were not over agressive with the meds at the beginning leaving time for your fish it adjust.
The only time I go straight to max is if the fish is in a very bad state, then time counts.
Remember that getting your fish strong and healthy with the least stress is as important as the meds over the long term
 
Yes to specific levels, but just what is that, what the manufacture says?
Dosage is guided by salinity and temp and that varies from tank to tank.
The OP is doing the right thing by gradually increasing the dosage and watching what how the patient responds, it may take several days to bring the amount up to max, I always stop short of max and not exceed 90% of the reccommended, and in two cases, stopped about 70% when the Ick fell off.
After the Ick falls off, then I go to Hypo for 2 weeks, then bring the salinity up to norm slowly over the last week.
I think the OP is smart.
What does OP stands for?
 
Copper, the reef safe forms that is, is a tried and true method that will work provided you don't overdose. You exercised great caution in going half dose and you recognize the need to keep ammonia in check. IMO you are doing the right things and you should continue to finish the treatment you started. I have tired all three methods and if you follow the instructs to the tee, your fish will survive the Ick parasite. Personally, I have never had any long lasting effects of reef safe copper treatments except for the first time 25 years ago now when I killed a fish by not managing the copper dosage correctly. Good luck!

It worries me a little that you say "reef safe" copper. There is no such thing. I'm sure that you did not mean it that way, but to anyone who might misinterpret this post, both ionic copper and chelated copper (cupramine) will devastate a reef tank. It is lethal to inverts at way below the therapeutic levels required. Fish must be placed in a hospital tank for treatment as the OP is doing.
 
It worries me a little that you say "reef safe" copper. There is no such thing. I'm sure that you did not mean it that way, but to anyone who might misinterpret this post, both ionic copper and chelated copper (cupramine) will devastate a reef tank. It is lethal to inverts at way below the therapeutic levels required. Fish must be placed in a hospital tank for treatment as the OP is doing.
Good point.

It's extremely important that everybody understands that we must separate the fish from any inverts we might have, as well, even if you have a fish-only tank with live rock, you should either remove one of the other, otherwise your live rock will turn into dead rock.
 
"Reef Safe" is the correct word in terms of distinction between actual copper and cupramine.
There are other forms of copper which are available, yet would be deadly at even small amounts.....kinda like iodide versus iodine, the latter can be very deadly.....where the former is more forgiving...not to say if you dump the whole bottle in that would be safe.
Reef safe has been that generic term used in the marine hobby for years, yet as we all know, not everything is safe...then again I was hoping...maybe not...

But I hear your concern. I agree that cupramine (copper) should only be used as directed, in a HT or QT tank with nothing but fish, tank, water, heater and the treatment. Nothing else, copper is deadly to all else. Killed one of my cycled rocks as well..
 
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