Hospital tank, waiting for fallow display

[somebloke]

Okay so I'm treating a fish in a hospital tank with Paraguard for the Seachem-recommended 28 days for ich. Now I have an in-between period waiting roughly 7 weeks for my fallow tank to be ready for the no-show fish. So they stay in the hospital tank but treatment has discontinued. Assuming the Paraguard worked as advertised, can I assume the hospital tank is clean of ich and keep fish there as-is, or do I need to (1) temporarily move the fish out to sanitize the hospital tank, (2) put the fish back into the sanitized hospital tank, and then wait for the fallow display to be ready?



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[somebloke]

Okay so I'm treating a fish in a hospital tank with Paraguard for the Seachem-recommended 28 days for ich. Now I have an in-between period waiting roughly 7 weeks for my fallow tank to be ready for the fish. So they stay in the hospital tank but treatment has discontinued. Assuming the Paraguard worked as advertised, can I assume the hospital tank is clean of ich and keep fish there without sanitizing the hospital, or do I need to (1) temporarily move the fish out to sanitize the hospital tank, (2) put the fish back into the sanitized hospital tank, and then wait for the fallow display to be ready?



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[somebloke]

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[somebloke]

Don't ignore the question -- I was on my phone and was going to say to ignore "no-show" which is another mess from trying to use my $*&#! phone keyboard.

 

[JustinM]

Ich is killed when it's in it's free swimming stage. There should be no cysts in the hospital tank if it was kept at therapeutic levels for the whole duration. Assuming it was then the hospital tank should be clean of ich. I won't say it's not a bad idea to sanitize the hospital tank but I never have.

I'm not sure with paraguard but I know with copper, fish can be moved to a clean and sanitized tank after 14 days of copper at therapeutic levels.

 

[scooter31707]

Also your DT has to go at least 72 days not 7 weeks. Some experts are saying we should start going 90 days now due to the different strains of ich.

 

[pisanoal]

I dont think paragaurd is considered an effective treatment option for ich. While you are waiting out your fallow period, do tank transfer method and be sure.

 

[Mishri]

I agree, I wouldn't trust paraguard to knock out ich entirely.. it's a blend of aldehydes and malachite green. although there was a study that found that malachite green dosed at .24mg/l and formalin (a form of an aldehyde, formaldehyde) dosed at 75mg/l.. it was administered in a 2 hour bath that killed some of the fish. and at the weakened strength that paraguard uses it might not be effective (I doubt it is).

here is that study: https://www.researchgate.net/public...diseases_in_captive_Western_Australia_dhufish

also, i believe malachite green is too rough on fish at necessary doses.. they aren't even allowed to use it on food fish in the US.

 

[dxdoan]

Paraguard is NOT effective treatment for Cryptocaryon Irritans, I would highly suggest you to look at the proven methods CP, Copper or TTM, if you don't know what these are please refer to the stickies.
I wouldn't want you to use Paraguard and finish 72/76 day fallow and then introduce you (still) ich effected fish to the DT and then have to fallow.
Having an fallow tank for almost half a year would be depressing.

 

[Swayze27]

Talk about sucking the fun out of the hobby, I could not imagine doing all this only to end up with ich again. Wait, been there and bought the t-shirt. I'm a feed well and limit stress kind of guy now. I have a blue hippo that gets a small amount of ich from time to time but he's fat and happy. Don't let a white spec on a fish turn your world upside down, it's gonna happen, more than once. The same people who claim to have ich free systems will tell you in the same breath that ich can be present in the gills and not visible to the eye. Think about that for a second. I have never lost a fish to ich, not saying it can't happen but you can also kill them with meds and copper. Seems I read of more disasters related to qt and ht issues than related to the parasites themselves. Kind of like our medicine side effects, they may help with one issue but can cause 30 more. I'm not saying not to treat but be sure to enjoy the hobby with whatever you do. Good luck with everything but just remember that anything you add in the future will need to go through this same ritual in order to keep the tank "ich free".

 

[somebloke]

Talk about sucking the fun out of the hobby, I could not imagine doing all this only to end up with ich again. Wait, been there and bought the t-shirt. I'm a feed well and limit stress kind of guy now. I have a blue hippo that gets a small amount of ich from time to time but he's fat and happy. Don't let a white spec on a fish turn your world upside down, it's gonna happen, more than once. The same people who claim to have ich free systems will tell you in the same breath that ich can be present in the gills and not visible to the eye. Think about that for a second. I have never lost a fish to ich, not saying it can't happen but you can also kill them with meds and copper. Seems I read of more disasters related to qt and ht issues than related to the parasites themselves. Kind of like our medicine side effects, they may help with one issue but can cause 30 more. I'm not saying not to treat but be sure to enjoy the hobby with whatever you do. Good luck with everything but just remember that anything you add in the future will need to go through this same ritual in order to keep the tank "ich free".

Yeah the fun was somewhat already sucked out as I lost 7/8 fish in 48 hours to what looked like comorbid Brook, so I'm trying to get it squeaky clean and am admittedly a bit paranoid.

Thanks for the tips/ideas.

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[Swayze27]

I truly understand