how important is RO/DI?

memorysan

New member
I am new to this and trying to keep this on as short of a budget as possible.

I am going to start up a 75 Gallon FOWLR aquarium, and I'm wondering how important a RO/DI unit really is. I have hear many of you recommend it, but I'm wondering if it is absolutely necessary. The tone I seem to see on here is that it is "highly recommended" but not absolutely necessary. Is it less necessary in a fish only tank where I'm not going to worry about corals?

I'm asking for a couple of reasons...I would like to be able to do water changes often, and by often I mean every weekend siphon off about 25% of the water and add new water. Especially at the beginning when the tank is becoming established (after the cycle, but still being broken in).

I was thinking about buying clean water from the grocery store, at least at the beginning, but eventually just going with the water from the faucet. Is this plan really as deadly as some people make it out to be?
 
Very important, go to to the sponsor forum, The Filterguys, or Buckeye Supply. The store water gets old fast, at 8lb a gallon.
 
In my opinion, no, esp. since you are going to be setting up FOWLR. I have a 75 gal. and I use tap water filtered with a PUR filter, which is basically running the water through carbon before I use it. This has worked for me great. It also does depend on your tap water. What works for me may not work for you. Keep in mind though that the large aquariums such as the Georgia Aq. use city water filtered with carbon, sort of like a PUR filter set up. It just would not be cost effective for them to use RO/DI. I read about this in Aquarium Fish Magazine. I figure if they can do it that way, I can. Their tanks look great. A lot of people are going to chime in with diff. opinions and tell you its a must, but its really not.
 
we have a Britta filter attached to the kitchen sink (where I'll be getting the water from anyway)...I could use that to filter the water a little. I understand that this is no where near what RO/DI does, but it's still something.
 
It will save you a LOT of frustration. It is tough enough chasing sources of nutrient problems (causing algae, cyano etc.) without adding to the problem through your water changes. Also, when you start a new tank with tap water, you will (depending on how bad your tap is) be adding phosphates and silicates that will soak into your sand and rock causing you problems for months down the road.
 
Does RO/DI have to be set up where it's permanent in the house? I live in base housing and cannot cut lines or anything to install it. If this is a must then this thread is mute...I wouldn't be getting one anyway.
 
I think they make faucet connecters, so you could connect it to your kitchen sink and or garden hose and unhook after you use it. People really seem to like the filter guys on here, check out there website to learn about how to hook it up.
 
BTW - a very helpful tool is a TDS meter (means Total Dissolved Solids). This will give you a good idea of your water quality. I got one for $10 on Ebay. Here are my typical readings-

Tap water - 150
RO water - 10
RO/DI - 0
 
If I do go with one, will this one be good enough (the cheapest one with RO and DI from The Filter Guys)?

$135.00 - OCEAN WAVE FIVE STAGE 75 GPD RO/DI

75 GPD would mean it would take more than 24 hours to do the initial fill, but that's not really a problem...I should be able to get the water for the water changes starting the day before and have enough when I actually do them...I couldn't pore the water straight in anyway because of having to mix the salt.

I may be able to handle another $135 if it will save a lot of frustration in the long run. I would kind of like to have this set up where the wife could do the easiest of maintenance when I deploy...so it may be worth it to make sure everything is good.
 
When people say TDS I always wonder what is making up that dissolved solid? Copper maybe from my own plumbing? Never really know so even a FOWLR that has a few shrimp would be a no-no.
As far as the system being portable, yes I did mine that way for a year. Kept it under the kitchen sink and pulled it out every week to make water. Even if you were to try and make a permanent type hookup you can do it with very minor/easily repaired modification to your plumbing.
 
RO yes DI not necessary, just polish's the water a little more; of course this for Ft Lauderdale FL and you must research your Tap water in Japan.
 
It's only $11 more to get the little DI unit with it...if I'm going to buy it, I might as well pay the extra $11.
 
It all depends on the quality of the water available from the tap. If there are no phosphates, nitrates, etc. you don't need RO/DI. In the states those numbers are available from the municipal govt. and there are lab services that are not too expensive. In the US that depends on where you live.
 
WHen I was in an apartment, I hooked mine via a Y connector to the washing machine cold line. Works like a charm, and you can send the waste water to the drum of the washing machine for use.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11964286#post11964286 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by memorysan
If I do go with one, will this one be good enough (the cheapest one with RO and DI from The Filter Guys)?

$135.00 - OCEAN WAVE FIVE STAGE 75 GPD RO/DI

75 GPD would mean it would take more than 24 hours to do the initial fill, but that's not really a problem...I should be able to get the water for the water changes starting the day before and have enough when I actually do them...I couldn't pore the water straight in anyway because of having to mix the salt.

I may be able to handle another $135 if it will save a lot of frustration in the long run. I would kind of like to have this set up where the wife could do the easiest of maintenance when I deploy...so it may be worth it to make sure everything is good.

I have that unit, I added the dual tds meter, since it will let you know when its time to replace things. It works great, and its fro a great company with great service. Just call them and tell them how you want to hook it up, and they will get you everything. Jim is really helpful.

It will do around 75gpd, but mine does about 60g at 70lbs on the pressure gage and about 45 degrees. In the summer im sure it will do closer to the 75.
 
How important it is too you depands on how much you hate algee blooms?
I got a Ro filter and already umpleased with its results.
I'm going back to buy a RODI so do yourself a favor and buy the best rodi you can afford now so you don't have to replace it as soon as I did!
 
I got mine at my local lfs for 200.00 and it lasted over a year before one cylinder needed a recharge. By the time I replace all filters in it, it will be 2 years, running a 54g tank, including one move and total re-start.
WIth ro/di filters it can be a case of 'pay me now or pay me later'. I've heard people with Ebay ro/di not going as long.
Buckeye does seem to be a good vendor: I've heard no complaints about them in 2 years on RC.
 
Sk8r pretty much nailed it with the 'pay me now or pay me later'!
I'm paying for it so if you can't go out and buy another better filter 6 months later then stick to RODI.

The 'pay me now or pay me later' also applys to good lighting! YOu don't wnat to replace a new light fixture when your interested in adding new corals!

Cheers!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11964615#post11964615 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jim.l
It all depends on the quality of the water available from the tap. If there are no phosphates, nitrates, etc. you don't need RO/DI. In the states those numbers are available from the municipal govt. and there are lab services that are not too expensive. In the US that depends on where you live.

Can I check these myself without much cost?
 
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