How in the world do you manage the corals?

The light you currently have will not be enough to keep any of those corals alive. You need to upgrade your lights first. Get a set of T5 fluorescents or even power-compacts at least. LEDs or metal halides would be awesome.

Your toadstool and zoanthids aren't expanding for a few reasons.... no light, low specific gravity (1.022 is low)... and low water flow. I only see a maxi jet in there.

Not sure why your fish store guy said that, but ALL frogspawns are aggressive.

Stinging stringy things are called sweeper tentacles. They are how these animals defend themselves and catch food.

Please do your own research and dont rely on someone trying to just sell you something. There are so many great posts and pages here that you shouldn't be in this situation.
 
 
xcreonx said:
Your toadstool and zoanthids aren't expanding for a few reasons.... no light, low specific gravity (1.022 is low)... and low water flow. I only see a maxi jet in there.
Click to expand...

Zoo Care off of Dr Fosters and Smith site, this is where we looked before I found this board:
Lighting: Moderate
Waterflow: Medium
Placement: Middle to Top
 
Colts2Broncos said:
Lighting: Moderate
Waterflow: Medium
Click to expand...

Are you coming over from freshwater aquariums?
I ask because I've seen people make similar mistakes moving over. The saltwater scale starts roughly at the top of the freshwater scale. So, "Low" saltwater lighting is "High/Very High" freshwater lighting. Same with flow. "Low" saltwater flow is "Very High" by freshwater standards. Your tank looks like it was set up to "Moderate/Medium" standards by the freshwater scale. Which would put it off the bottom of the saltwater scale.


For instance, my system (75 gallons) is "Low" flow and I have about 1500 gph of flow. I have a strip of 20 LEDs over the tank and that's "Moderate" lighting. My previous lighting with a shallower tank was a 2 bulb T5, and that was "low" lighting.
 
Nope. We have a freshwater already. We used to have a saltwater before we moved and then went with a smaller SW. So we definitely understand the difference between FW high flow/high light and SW high flow/high light. My husband is a big believer in overkill (ie: he had 4 bilge pumps in a 15' boat) It just seemed even for him that 3000 was high, I guess it isn't.
 
I have a 65 gallon as well and I'm running about 2700 gph not including the return pump as well. Prop pumps (like koralias) put out quite a bit of flow but it's pretty wide and gentle, so those big numbers aren't unusual when you look around.
 
I know my sinulara will kill my photosynthetic gorg(not sure what kind) and my gsp kills them both if they touch. My finger leather also beats out my gorg. move them around so they dont touch and frag them if they get too big to avoid touching
 
I'm running a koralia 750 & 550 in my 29g tank with a mixed reef (Not including hob filters for extra circulation and chemical media). I went cheap on the pumps, they were on sale for like $25 each a while back, the 4x24 ATI Sunpower wasn't so cheap though....

I'd ditch the T8 bulbs pronto and spend some money on good lighting and circulation pumps.

I battle corals being too close to each other and have had to separate them many times. It sucks having a small tank!
 
i would say you certainly need a lighting and flow upgrade, and quickly too...my 5G tank has more light and flow then yours does....i have torches, frogspawns, chalices, acroporas, leathers, kenys, zoas mushrooms, GSP, anthelia etc etc...basically have a bunch of everything crammed in there....there is some fighting issues but nothing too serious..also have a photo gorg in there...

aside from light and flow, moving the chalice down will help with warfare, the toads on the bottom should be moved onto the rocks and higher up, i am not sure if they like sand on them or not...your zoas could be moved down a bit, but your lights need to be brought up first...
 
I agree, you definitely need a LOT more light and flow...I think that should be your first priority.

I think there is a degree of just picking what seems the best coral choices based on your research, and then just letting them settle in and see what happens. I have mostly softies but I do have a frogspawn. He behaves himself well and I do keep him several inches away from the other corals. Even with good research, you can't be 100% sure that any critter will behave as it "should" so there is some trial and error. I think that is why you will get varying opinions, because everyone has had a torch coral that never bothered anything else, or a nice gentle duncan that killed everything, or a reef safe fish that wasn't, etc.
 
wireefman said:
sps and softies are dfferent.. sps has a calcuium based skeleton softies do not.. as faras the coral placement goes.. I have lps in my softie tank.. however its a few selected species which for the most part is isolated.. all of my acans are isolated 4-5 inches away from other corals... my euphilias will sway and brush my colt, Kenya tree, devils hand, finger, and some toadstools.. but most of my stuff is softies and they are happy..

lrhveco.jpg
Click to expand...

Beautiful tank! *Applauds you*
 
Colts2Broncos said:
wireefman... YOU are the one I was hoping to hear from. I love love LOVE that leather coral (I think thats what it is) it looks like a curved glass on the right side. I just listed what we have, which ones need to be isolated or is necessary, removed?
Click to expand...

btw I can send you a frag of that leather you like... you pay the shipping and ill over night it to you
 
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