How many can I have?......

Sk8r

Staff member
RC Mod
I hear a lot of questions like: "How many fish can I put in?" "How many tangs?" How many for a CUC...how much should I feed? Can I have a school of fish? ---

The universal answer is: "A couple fewer than you may think."

Here's the reason. You set up your expensive tank in a period in your life when things are going pretty ok and when you are absolutely obsessed with your tank---a period that lasts quite a while. You watch every twitch of a fish's fins. You sit watching corals eat. You sit watching a worm crawl around the rock. You sit waiting for a zoa to open. A bubble doesn't pop without you noticing it.

Then life happens. Your job changes hours. A household member gets seriously ill. You're in a storm zone and have shingles all over your lawn. It's summer, and you've got a vacation planned---gone two weeks. It's winter, and the walk has to be shoveled 3x daily...

You're not watching that tank nearly as closely as before. You forget a few tests. You skip three water changes. Or more. You forget a filter change. You let the topoff reservoir run dry five days ago, and haven't noticed---yet. [me]

That's why 'fewer than you think'. You need wiggle-room in a tank. You need room for fish to grow, for a heater to go off or a thermostat to fail, for you to forget a filter once without catastrophe, for your salinity to spike once [me] without killing your tank, for a kalk overdose, for an emergency 5 day trip to ailing grandma's with no tanksitter available; for a 10 hour power out; for your AC to fail in a heatwave, or for you to have one of those temporary cooldowns in your interest and attention due to some pressing emergency or life-change.

This is why those of us who've been at this a long while beg and plead with newbies not to 'push' a tank's capacity. Have plenty of spare room in your tank---and plenty of 'room' in your tank chemistry. If your fish are using every smidge of oxygen it produces; if your live rock is barely keeping up with the biomass; if you've got cranky fish who start in on each other if not fed often; if you've got a skimmer that easily goes out of tune or a tank that's just plain carrying all the life it can---it takes just one event before the owner notices a fish belly-up (always the favorite) or all the corals sliming, or the water going greener by the hour (literally), or the fish all up gasping. If your nephew throws Cheerios into your tank---the already-stressed chemistry goes south fast. If you have an 8 hour power out, the maxed-out tank will crash and kill most everything. The tank with wiggle-room in its life-support will go 10 hours.

One small hint---even if you're a fish-only, install a small plain mushroom rock. As long as they're spread out and happy, your fish are going to be pretty ok. If you come into the room and they're shriveled or sliming, test fast and correct things. Fish don't complain: they just go belly-up or go into the rocks and the only advance signal you get is the absence of a particular fish who suffers adverse conditions earliest. Corals all complain early, while there's still plenty of time to do something---as good as running a constant, visible water test.

HTH, guys, with as good an explanation of reasons as I can give you.
 
Hi Sk8r. I read other posts about salinity spikes. What types of things cause that to happen besides not topping off?
 
Great post Sk8r. You definantly have your stuff down, in fact this is your second or third thread that has applied to me today! Had to go over your acclimation thread again to make sure I did everything right for my first fish! A pair of True Percs, just entered QT for the next 4 weeks at least. They look healthy, not hiding just up front.
 
Great for that, Newbie!

A salinity spike happens when there's not enough fresh water in the tank. Excluding human error [new hobbyist tops off with salt water instead of fresh], equipment failure is the reason: either your topoff system screws up (I use a simple float switch and a Maxijet 1200 and a big barrel of ro/di---and if something jostles the float switch out of position or the pump fails, that can do it)------or your refractometer goes out of calibration. Or you're using a swing-arm and you've had a calcium carbonate buildup that's affected the reading.

Let me explain that if you draw a line on your tank/sump with tape marking the ideal water level at the ideal salinity, and use fresh ro/di to keep the tank topped off so the water level is always exactly there, you can pretty well figure your salinity will not change appreciably for, oh, a year. Check it now and again. But really don't expect it to change.

Here's the second part of that statement: be it salinity, alkalinity, or any other test result, if you can see no OBVIOUS reason why you've suddenly gotten a horrid reading on one of your tests (obvious reason: the topoff pump is unplugged, for example: or you just did a water change and got the measurement of salt grossly wrong)---the FIRST thing to suspect is your TEST. Before you do *anything* to adjust your tank---run another test, and if you still get wonky results, take a sample of water to your fish store and have them run a test. Test kits go bad and expire. Instruments go out of calibration...not often, but it happens. Swing-arms should be soaked overnight in white vinegar once a month to stay in trim. FIRST look for obvious problems: things not plugged in, etc, hoses not in position, a pump not working. SECOND retest. THIRD take a water sample to somebody using another device or test kit. Only then do you take corrective action. And probably you should first go onto RC, state what you've observed and done, and ask.

Salinity is almost never, ever going to change, if you observe that taped line. But remember, if you have a sump, the taped line should be on the sump: the water level in the tank will not change until the sump is nearly dry.
 
Sk8r thanks for adding that info, I still need to add an ATO. Just need to get my salinity up first. Topping off with salt for that as I have read that is what you are suppose to do on here unless I am mistaken. Current SG is 1.023 trying to get it up to 1.026.
 
Your so right Sk8r , It hurts to hear but so true . Not just the new Guys/Girls needed to read this including myself . Life calls use from our Reefs from time to time like it or not , great advice .
 
@ Newbie, yes: you top off with saltwater to RAISE salinity. Doesn't take too long. I prefer to have mine at 1.025, so I've got, again, wiggle room for evaporation or freshwater overfill. A good sensitive floatswitch and pump will make your life SO much easier, but don't buy it just before you go on vacation: I did; and screwed up the setup and had a bit of a mess---nothing died, but it was close. There's a learning curve with them---including NOT letting the topoff hose touch the water (it starts siphoning back when the pump cuts off and then the pump cuts on and pumps out, and keeps doing it hour after hour after hour. You can also install a siphon break to prevent that. But I prefer to suspend my topoff line safely above the water line, so I know it's ok.
 
Thanks Sk8r I will be sure to be home when getting a float switch or ATO set up! We can learn from each others and our mistakes!
 
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