How much TDS do you allow?

+1, change carbon and sedi filters every 6 mnths and when i see the TDS on outgoing meter go to 001 i change both DI resin beds. BRS (Bulk Reef Supply) sells it in a bulk size for a fair price. Color changing.
 
My inline tds meter reads about 4ppm. But then again, how do we even know if it is calibrated correctly from the manufacture. A simple turn of sensor will change the calibration.
 
A long time ago in a galaxy far away I used tap water 15 years ago it comes out at 350 + & I had no problems then so I will let my 4 stage RO DI get up around 5 . Still I joined the RO DI wagon as soon as I learned about it.
 
Serously people..1? Seems a bit of a waist to me.

I buy color changing resin. When the first canister creeps up to 10, I swap the second DI canister and reload the first and put it back at the end of the line. One 7lb bag of color changing resin lasts me about a 1.5yrs
 
Great thread, I just realized mine was at 5 so I was worried. After reading this, I think I'll be ok making a water change this weekend. Next week I'll have my filters/di.
 
Serously people..1? Seems a bit of a waist to me.

Absolutely, any nonzero reading inline is time to change the DI, IMO. As others mentioned earlier in the thread, when a Di starts to become depleted, and things are coming out, the concentration of ammonia, silicate, and other bad things can actually be higher than in the incoming water. That is because the DI can be holding a lot of these, but when depleted, the weakly bound ions will be among the first to come out.

When my DI depletes, my product limewater will stink of ammonia due to this process.

So bear in mind that rising ppm is not just a sign of less complete purification, it can be a sign that your product water is worse than the tap water in some important ways.

I discuss these issues in a lot more detail here:

Reverse Osmosis/Deionization Systems to Purify Tap Water for Reef Aquaria
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-05/rhf/index.htm
 
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I used to check TDS with hand held unit every so often. I use the color changing DI resin so I didn’t think it was really a problem. Now I have a dual TDS meter and I check it every time I use it because what I realized was it seems to start rising above 0 before the last inch or so has changed color in the summer. I have city water and the water coming from the RO is about 14 in the summer and 3 in the winter.
So basically as soon as I see it above 0 I change it. I change the sediment and carbon blocks together about every 9 months.
If you think about what Randy is saying it makes perfect sense. You don’t want your filter unloading into your water.
 
Serously people..1? Seems a bit of a waist to me.

Absolutely, any nonzero reading inline is time to change the DI, IMO. As others mentioned earlier in the thread, when a Di starts to become depleted, and things are coming out, the concentration of ammonia, silicate, and other bad things can actually be higher than in the incoming water. That is because the DI can be holding a lot of these, but when depleted, the weakly bound ions will be among the first to come out.

When my DI depletes, my product limewater will stink of ammonia due to this process.

So bear in mind that rising ppm is not just a sign of less complete purification, it can be a sign that your product water is worse than the tap water in some important ways.

I discuss these issues in a lot more detail here:

Reverse Osmosis/Deionization Systems to Purify Tap Water for Reef Aquaria
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-05/rhf/index.htm


So to make sure I understand , you're saying that a 2ppm TDS will/could 'have a greater concentration of ammonia, silicate, and other bad things can actually be higher than in the incoming water' of a higher tds. Ahh you'd have to throw the science at me Randy... esp on the silicate and 'other bad things' which would seem to be the definition of 'tds'... no?

Frankly, unless your using a calibrated scientific instrument... 0 isn't even 0
 
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