How thick is your glass??

[sfsuphysics]

I'm considering building a tank, because my truvu cracked in front due to a modification I made, while I'll take the sole blame on the crack, it did seem an odd place (but not out of the question) place for the crack... realizing they probably fast track them out to minimum specs to hold water means me doing a modification put it out of whack.

Ok enough of that, next tank I want to be a wide tank, I NEED glass, because cleaning is such a chore. Tank size will be anywhere from 6'x3'x2' to 4'x4'x2' I'm getting a loaner 4x3x2 from a friend so I'll be able to get a feel for the dimensions I desire.

Would 1/2" be overkill? Too much too little?

I'd like to do this custom myself, since I want a PVC back wall, with external overflow, & PVC bottom (so I don't need one huge honking piece of glass). AGE are the only ones I've seen that do PVC, but I'm finding too much trouble finding their company online to even attempt to get a quote.. so I'll do it myself.

 

[CHASDB]

I have a LeeMar 6'x30"x2' it's 1/2" with eurobracing, I wouldn't go less than 1/2" I thought about building my tank for a moment, but the thought of time and cost of replacing livestock for a blown seam as well as water damage scared me. If you build it with PVC and glass please start a build thread.

 

[sfsuphysics]

Alright 1/2" sounds good. I'll start a thread when I'm done with it, I know how I feel when I see someone starting a thread and a year later they're finally done... but then again those are the ones that get plenty of comments ... holding the carrot out. But I have some techniques/ideas I want to hammer out on a smaller scale first before investing too much time/money into the larger tank.

Out of curiosity is your LeeMar starphire at all?

 

[Fiziksgeek]

1/2" should do just fine for a tank of either size, with some bracing of course.

Have you figured out the magic recipe for attaching glass to PVC?? AGE likely used some sort of UV cured glue to attain a structural bond between the two materials.

Also, is pvc suitable for the back wall? My first impression is that it would have too much flex to be used as wall of the tank. Meaning, it will flex more than the other walls made of glass, which would lead to additional stress on all the joints. I dont actually know this, just thinking off the hip.

 

[sfsuphysics]

Yeah definitely with the bracing, I thought for a minute about doing rimless, then thought the cost difference in thicker glass would make it unappitizing... plus with a DIY jobber I figure all the extra help I can get with bracing the better

AGE might go that route, but after talking with James (Acrylics) seems Dow 795 is the way to go, it's a really long cure, but whatever, I can wait.

As to the backwall, while yes it will be flexible I'm going to nullify that with the external overflow that'll run the entire length of the tank (bracing), and a series of other slices of PVC as bracing along the height. But yeah, I was thinking of the flex of the PVC as well, Tap doesn't seem to carry anything thicker than 1/4" online, however their store front (which there is one local) might have something larger, or at the very least could order it for me... wouldn't even start to understand how much it'd cost to order it online though!

 

[Fiziksgeek]

Interesting. Dow 795, or 995 for that matter is extremely sticky, strong stuff. I'll be interested to see how it works! There's been a lot of talk about people trying to build tanks iwth glass walls and a pvc bottom, but so far I haven't seen anyone actually do it at home. You could be the first pioneer to set out on the journey....and actually return! haha

For PVC thickness, I would at least match the thickness of the glass, or even go to 3/4" material. I believe AGE uses 3/4 for their PVC bottoms, but a quick search through some threads with their tanks would confirm this.

Modern Plastics carries thick PVC sheet online. I have no idea what shipping would cost ya though! I would have to think that it would be cheaper to get locally.

Good luck.

 

[sfsuphysics]

Hasn't historically the first pioneers met with calamity and pestilence? But whether or not I do it myself also depends upon the cost of glass, everyone always said "go to a glass shop" but in reality how many people have ever had to go to a glass shop to get glass?... so if I get a surprise like each piece of glass is going to cost $400-$500 I might have to talk to LeeMAR or AGE guys (if I could find out how to contact them in the first place!) and see about getting a quote.. I'm not going to go DIY if I only save a couple hundred bucks.

Yeah thought the online route might be best, I don't know if Tap has anything thicker than 1/4 in stock, but then again their only store is probably a bit different what they can get in house.

3/4" for the bottom? Sounds like a plan, I mean if that's what AGE does, there's probably a good reason. Although I'm wondering what that reason is, the entire bottom is going to be supported similar to an acrylic tank.. but hey they're pros I'm not.

I still am working on finding a temp tank for current stuff, guy I know has a 180 he's trying to wrangle up for me... that way I can build the new one directly where it's going and not have to move a tank into position later. But this is the reason why I didn't want to start a thread on this topic quite yet, I don't know how long it'll be before I get started and didn't want to string anyone along... I just wanted to know how thick peoples glass tanks were (that were "large")

 

[Fiziksgeek]

calamity and pestilence...that sounds about right...haha

I've been to a glass shop, got a quote for a 53x26x1/2" Starphire for, I forget the exact number, but it was under $200, though I didn't need the edges polished as it was for a wood tank.

Not sure why AGE uses 3/4". Perhaps the additional material thickness is necessary for the structural integrity of the tank. I know they usually put a rabbit on the pvc bottom that the glass sides sit in.

Oh yeah, too late, you are already stringing me along! haha

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13551727#post13551727 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sfsuphysics
Hasn't historically the first pioneers met with calamity and pestilence? But whether or not I do it myself also depends upon the cost of glass, everyone always said "go to a glass shop" but in reality how many people have ever had to go to a glass shop to get glass?... so if I get a surprise like each piece of glass is going to cost $400-$500 I might have to talk to LeeMAR or AGE guys (if I could find out how to contact them in the first place!) and see about getting a quote.. I'm not going to go DIY if I only save a couple hundred bucks.

Yeah thought the online route might be best, I don't know if Tap has anything thicker than 1/4 in stock, but then again their only store is probably a bit different what they can get in house.

3/4" for the bottom? Sounds like a plan, I mean if that's what AGE does, there's probably a good reason. Although I'm wondering what that reason is, the entire bottom is going to be supported similar to an acrylic tank.. but hey they're pros I'm not.

I still am working on finding a temp tank for current stuff, guy I know has a 180 he's trying to wrangle up for me... that way I can build the new one directly where it's going and not have to move a tank into position later. But this is the reason why I didn't want to start a thread on this topic quite yet, I don't know how long it'll be before I get started and didn't want to string anyone along... I just wanted to know how thick peoples glass tanks were (that were "large")

 

[sfsuphysics]

Wow, $200 for starphire? Man if that were the case I might do 3 sided starfire! What's the point of edge polishing? Does it give strength at all? Or simply prevent you from slicing yourself if you run your hand along the top? I thought about making a PVC trim around the whole thing, simply to hide the seam for the bracing, so may not need the edge polish.

As to the 3/4" pvc, I thought about that, the fact they route grooves to have everything sink in, maybe if they need the glass to sit in really deep to get a good tight bond... I had a couple ideas myself to make a PVC trim around the bottom as a gasket around the whole tank... but again I'm getting ahead of myself.

Sorry for stringing you along, however if I asked these questions in the DIY section the first post would be on page 4 before the end of the day and no one would have answered

I need to get that temp tank though, a buddy has a 4x3 tank, which will give me some good ideas if I want the 4 feet width or the 3 feet width.

 

[LCN]

This is going to be a very interesting thread.
Interesting idea, but I would built a nano and start from there.

 

[sfsuphysics]

Hey man the thread is simply to ask how thick people's glass is for larger tanks, I really didn't mean to turn it into a build thread, and in fact it's not. People might be holding their breath waiting for something to happen (either good or bad... ) but I really don't want to give the impression that it's ready to be built.

And I am toying with the idea of building a nano, but only for understanding the techniques associated with it, obviously I can't test it for strength in the same way.

 

[jjackson]

yeah, I built my tank with a pvc bottom, I havent finished it yet but it is coming along well...

I have a 1" piece of PVC on the bottom 1/2 inch sides and I will have a 1/2 or 3/4 inch eurobrace... with school and life being crazy I havent finished it yet but it is not far off... here are some pics...

 

[hobogato]

looks great James!

 

[jjackson]

Thanks...

 

[hobogato]

i agree, go with 1/2" or thicker glass. gonna be a great build to follow!

 

[jjackson]

same here

 

[sfsuphysics]

See there ya go, I won't be the pioneer

Good job James!

BTW where did you get your PVC? Locally? or online?
Nice job on the cuts, did you use a router? or are you lucky enough to have access to a CNC machine? Also is there any particular reason you want your bulkheads recessed?

 

[Fiziksgeek]

Someone is actually doing it, woohoo!

jjackson, what are you using for bonding? A silicone or something else?

I know some of the heavy duty bulkheads (hayward for example) aren't made for thick materials, this could be one reason for the recesses.

 

[jjackson]

PVC locally all of it using a router.

Bulkheads recessed for looks. it is most likely going to be bare bottom. and AGE does it so why not...

Spoke with the shop where I got my pvc and he told me I wouldnt have a problem if I took the sheen off of the pvc... either with sanding or a router and I used GE57 100% silicone designed for plastics that I got from the shop.

 

[jjackson]

I will shoot a picture later of it up on the stand... I am just waiting to go get the acrylic for the eurobrace... like I said I have been lazily putting parts together... I do however have my skimmer and lights worked out and acquired...