How to dim a Meanwell ELN-60-48D...

i'm sure ive missed this but,

what will i need to wire up a ELN-P and a arduino, not tools, like if i need anything except the ELN and arudino
 
sorry a arduino, microcontroller, it has multiple pwm outputs and for example DWZM is using it to build a reefcontroller
 
no its really simple,

you use the meanwell ELN-60-48P to "power" the LEDs
you use the pwm outputs on the arduino to controll the meanwell
you use your computer to write a code to controll the arduinos inputs and outputs

DWZM is "Der_Wille_Zur_Macht"

take a look at DWZMs thread about "easy arduino reefcontroller" and you'll see
 
der_wille_zur_macht said:
I'm happy to hear it worked on both drivers. This is big news because it means people wanting to control them via Arduino can do so with ease, regardless of which version of the driver they got.

If people want to try the shield, I have around 7 of the prototype PCBs left. Since they're "flawed" I'll give them away free, you pay shipping ($2 covers a padded envelope via first class). Send me a PM so this thread doesn't give the appearance of commercial activity. The "flaw" doesn't alter functionality, it just makes it a bit harder/confusing to assemble. The flaw is that the voltage regulator I designed for doesn't quite fit. You can fix this by either using a different reg, or bending the pins on the one I designed for. I wanted to use an LM4940 in a TO-262 package but accidentally put a TO-252 package on the board. If you want to use a different reg, get a 7810 in a TO-252 package. The main difference is that the 4940 (not available in TO-263) has a lower dropout so you can use it with any wall wart above 10.5v, whereas the 7810 (IS available in TO-263) needs 12v input. For most people it won't make a difference which one you end up with, since I'm guessing most people will just use a 12v wall wart anyways.

Otherwise, I've posted the EAGLE docs in svn for the hydra project. These files show the correct package size to use the low dropout 4940 regulator. This is released under creative commons 3.0 BY-SA-NC (so you can use it for non-commercial purposes):

http://code.google.com/p/hydra-reef/source/browse/#

click the "trunk" folder on the left, then "hardware" then "ELN_shield". Then click on the links under "filename" on the right to download the EAGLE files, then you can open the project up in EAGLE and make gerbers, send them to a board house, etc.

There's also a BOM in excel format showing part numbers from Mouser.
Click to expand...

Anybody know where I can find one of the voltage regulators mentioned above, or a usable substitute? Got everything else on the BOM using DWZM's part's list... minimum # to order of the voltage regulators is 580 pieces...:eek1: I've looked a few other places and can't muster a $100 order either... not for a $1.50 part!

Mouser does have a 12V... Maybe limit max output in the sketch to correlate to 10V?

Thanks in advance,
Tim
 
i don't know about most of us here, but i'm not a computer geek code writer.

what's an arduino?

all i know is what i did and posted in the picture. it was the simpliest i can explain.

it's like writing a technical book, you need to be detail in what you're trying to tell the reader.


blackizzz said:
no its really simple,

you use the meanwell ELN-60-48P to "power" the LEDs
you use the pwm outputs on the arduino to controll the meanwell
you use your computer to write a code to controll the arduinos inputs and outputs

DWZM is "Der_Wille_Zur_Macht"

take a look at DWZMs thread about "easy arduino reefcontroller" and you'll see
Click to expand...
 
popper231 said:
i don't know about most of us here, but i'm not a computer geek code writer.

what's an arduino?

all i know is what i did and posted in the picture. it was the simpliest i can explain.

it's like writing a technical book, you need to be detail in what you're trying to tell the reader.
Click to expand...

At first I couldn't even pronounce it... well maybe I wasn't that bad off, but a couple hours reading, starting here: http://arduino.cc/ will get you in the game. There is so much information in this thread and others it would be silly to try to repeat even a small portion. I know it sounds silly, but the answer to getting the basicas is read my friend, READ!:thumbsup:

I'm may be a geek, not sure, just not one of the "geek, code writers" you mention, and that's the beauty of this device, there are already Arduino sketches posted, free of charge from your "geeks" I might add, so all you have to do is have a few mechanical, and basic circuit skills to make a relatively sophisticated controller for your DIY LEDs.

Nobody can spoon feed this stuff to you much more than what's already here!

Good luck!
Tim
 
hllywd said:
Anybody know where I can find one of the voltage regulators mentioned above, or a usable substitute? Got everything else on the BOM using DWZM's part's list... minimum # to order of the voltage regulators is 580 pieces...:eek1: I've looked a few other places and can't muster a $100 order either... not for a $1.50 part!

Mouser does have a 12V... Maybe limit max output in the sketch to correlate to 10V?

Thanks in advance,
Tim
Click to expand...

Got my Mouser order, still no luck with the voltage regulator. Fishman, thanks for the help but that's not the right component. The right one has two pins that stick out of one side and the mounting plate that solders to the pcb... I don't have the part# at hand or I'd post a link.

Gonna have to use my magnifying glass on this stuff... my first go round with SMT!

Wish me luck!
Tim

BTW - If I don't find a solution over the weekend I'll probably go with the 12V component and set my max current where ever the dimmer puts out 10V then limit my code to that level...

Not too worried about a small amount over the 10V either. I found out my variable wall wart was pushing almost 13V on the 9V setting... I know, shoulda checked it first, but, I ran two of my drivers at that setting for an hour or so just to see how warm my heatsinks got at that level. I know MW says it's a no-no and I wouldn't do it again on purpose, but I didn't experience any immediate ill effects and dialed everything back once I discovered the error of my ways!
 
hllywd said:
Anybody know where I can find one of the voltage regulators mentioned above, or a usable substitute? Got everything else on the BOM using DWZM's part's list... minimum # to order of the voltage regulators is 580 pieces...:eek1: I've looked a few other places and can't muster a $100 order either... not for a $1.50 part!

Mouser does have a 12V... Maybe limit max output in the sketch to correlate to 10V?

Thanks in advance,
Tim
Click to expand...


Tim, if you're looking to use a DC voltage input for the dimmer on a Meanwell "D" model, you can just buy a regulated (or "switching") 9v power supply.

You only have to make a minor adjustment to the SRV2 screw inside the Meanwell to "trick" it into giving you a full 1,000mA using 9v, but it works like a charm and couldn't be easier, so long as you know how to use the DMM to measure current while you are adjusting that SRV2 screw.


See this thread:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1856664&page=2
 
hllywd said:
Got my Mouser order, still no luck with the voltage regulator. Fishman, thanks for the help but that's not the right component. The right one has two pins that stick out of one side and the mounting plate that solders to the pcb... I don't have the part# at hand or I'd post a link.

Gonna have to use my magnifying glass on this stuff... my first go round with SMT!

Wish me luck!
Tim

BTW - If I don't find a solution over the weekend I'll probably go with the 12V component and set my max current where ever the dimmer puts out 10V then limit my code to that level...

Not too worried about a small amount over the 10V either. I found out my variable wall wart was pushing almost 13V on the 9V setting... I know, shoulda checked it first, but, I ran two of my drivers at that setting for an hour or so just to see how warm my heatsinks got at that level. I know MW says it's a no-no and I wouldn't do it again on purpose, but I didn't experience any immediate ill effects and dialed everything back once I discovered the error of my ways!
Click to expand...

Are you using a P or a D? Sorry if I missed it.
But like red said, there are many options and soon I hope to have a thread with the dim input voltage relative to what the MW uses from 110V and what it puts to the LEDs coltage and current wise.
If you are using the D's have you looked at the Mouser part I linked in redfishes thread. Its a 7810 voltage regulator. Like a LM317, but not parts its all internal.
 
redfishsc said:
You only have to make a minor adjustment to the SRV2 screw inside the Meanwell to "trick" it into giving you a full 1,000mA using 9v, but it works like a charm and couldn't be easier, so long as you know how to use the DMM to measure current while you are adjusting that SRV2 screw.
Click to expand...

I agree. IMHO, setting the current via the SVR2 should be step #1 in hooking up the LEDs. They come turned all the way up, 7 of my 8 did anyway. Thats max current and not good at all.
(the 8th one I bought used so it was allready fooled with)
 
This is what I have: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1851457

This is what I'm putting together:
DSC02579.jpg


This is what I need: http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/STM...=sGAEpiMZZMsGz1a6aV8DcISvW2lXUSQSccbj5vxbF4c= it goes on the big pad on the left. (on my screen the pic is ~6x the real thing)
... but before I purchase 580 of them, I'll order an Apex.

My drivers are Ds, but testing with this shield revealed it worked with either flavor driver.


Is this what you're looking for SWINGRRR?

Wall Wart Voltage Setting Actual Output 24 LED Current Draw Watts
12V 16.77V
9V 12.79V
7.5V 10.7V .75A 72W
6V 8.7V .6A 57W
4.5V 6.76V .45A 45W
3V 4.9V .32A 32W
1.5V 3.14V .19A 19W
(all actual measurements)

Obviously it's linited to my specific dimming voltages, but it gives a general idea. And no I'm not running them @ 10.7V... When I was sloppy setting the first two up I did not check the output of the wall wart. Both drivers ran fine on the 9V (12.79V) setting for an ~ an hour with no apparent advers effects. I am burning in both of the arrays I have finished on the 1.5V and 3V settings on my old 30 gallon tank... plenty of light for that!
 
Last edited:
hllywd said:
This is what I need: http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/STM...=sGAEpiMZZMsGz1a6aV8DcISvW2lXUSQSccbj5vxbF4c= it goes on the big pad on the left. (on my screen the pic is ~6x the real thing)
... but before I purchase 580 of them, I'll order an Apex.
Click to expand...

I have the same shield, except mine has all the stuff on it. Ill try to look today and see if I can get a P/N off the regulator.
Somewhere in 300 PM's DZW told me he was going to use another voltage regulator. What you are looking for, is it the new ones, or old ones?


Is this not the same? 1 for $1.84 it seems. The P/N is the same.
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=497-7763-1-ND
 
Last edited:
How to dim a Meanwell ELN-60-48D...

Does anybody know if going pwm has any advantages verses going analog? ie Can the audrino control the Dimmer with more accuracy than the Apex??

Thanks
 
hllywd said:
Looks like the same one... estimated ship date is 8/15 though...
Click to expand...
O. Sorry, I didnt see that.

bpiermat said:
Does anybody know if going pwm has any advantages verses going analog? ie Can the audrino control the Dimmer with more accuracy than the Apex??

Thanks
Click to expand...

I dont know of any advantages, to each his own kinda. For me the arduino allows it to be automatic. I know you could set the D and buckpucks on timers, but I wanted the full sun/set thing. Also, I have the options of coulds, storms, etc with a hands off approach.
I cant say anything about being more accurate than an Apex or not.
 
How to dim a Meanwell ELN-60-48D...

Are you suggesting I can't use the apex to do dim the "d" series using the variable voltage output on the apex? And tie this into the seasonal tables already built into the apex?

Thanks
 
How to dim a Meanwell ELN-60-48D...

I wanted to get the Audrino also but after adding up the parts up I think the apex might be cheaper or similar cost to get equavalent functionality
 
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