How to make a spray bar to replace the AGA overflow nozzle

bigzman said:
Any one try this one the new megaflow? I tried to read the whole thread. it is to long.
i can't remember if anyone's done it on the megaflow or not. there's no reason you couldn't. you could either do just one side (preferably the long side) or you could come up out of the overflow with a 'T' and go to both sides. up to you. if you try it, let us know.
 
Homebrew said:
Ed - my elbow was on tight, but not glued. I would tend to agree that the siphon break in the elbow may not be needed now since the first few holes in the Sil-O-Flex will do the same thing. I noticed right off that after a system shut down, my sump filled with only half the water that it normally did without the spraybar because the spraybar holes let so much more air in so much faster. Most of the sump water from a system power down came from the drain overflow area and not the return. You may be able to just plug the hole in the elbow, but I will assume no responsibility for any flooding issues in your house!
it will all depend on the position of the spraybar and the holes. my siphon break does it's job mostly before the water gets to the holes on my spraybar. once it gets to the holes, it obviously increases the air flow and siphon stops all together. if you plug your siphon break, just test it to be sure. my father in law's spray bar is a couple inches below the bottom of his overflow teeth, so a siphon break was mandatory (which we found out the first time we shut the pump off before the siphon break was drilled :eek2: )
 
Quick Update:

The hole on my elbow is right at the bend of the "L". I plugged it with a toothpick for now. No more air being sucked in. I'll replace the elbow when I have some time, and if it's not glued.

electric130: I think I understand why you thought the spraybar had too many holes, or holes too big. It reduced the back pressure in the pipe, so water didn't flow out of the siphon break, right?

I'd rather have the flow than additional head pressure at this point.

I did a power off test and the siphon broke on it's own as expected.

Thanks for all of your help. It's a great, simple idea, and those are always the best.

Now on to the "Durso" ...

Ed
 
electric130,

Thanks you just gave me a weekend project to do. Any reason why not use PVC? Only problem I see it the durso being in the way.

Regards,
ZC
 
bigzman said:
Any reason why not use PVC?

I was going to use PVC until I found this thread. Sil-O-Flex is black and TOTALLY blends (you have to REALLY look to see mine). I originally did the search on RC for suggestions on coloring the PVC. Others who have posted here have used gray schedule 80 to blend better than white. Some who have used white PVC have reported using purple primer, perm. markers, etc. to color the pipe. Thanks to Electric130, IMO black looks best and was the best idea!
 
bigzman said:
electric130,

Thanks you just gave me a weekend project to do. Any reason why not use PVC? Only problem I see it the durso being in the way.

Regards,
ZC

The weight is the only issue I can think of. The siloflex is light and after you put it in your tank and fill with water it will float level.
 
bigzman said:
electric130,

Thanks you just gave me a weekend project to do. Any reason why not use PVC? Only problem I see it the durso being in the way.

Regards,
ZC
homebrew and thrlride got it. main thing is that it's black so you don't notice it. especially if the back of your tank is black. it has a larger ID than sch40 PVC also, so there's less restriction. the weight is another thing as mentioned. the siloflex will float so the far end does not need to be supported at all, where PVC will need to be anchored somehow.
 
Just wondering..

Just wondering..

Electric

How does the Sil-o-Flex hold up under the UV lighting over time?
I would hate to do a mod and find the material broke down under the UV spectrum.

Thanks
 
Re: Just wondering..

Re: Just wondering..

mlundstrom said:
Electric

How does the Sil-o-Flex hold up under the UV lighting over time?
I would hate to do a mod and find the material broke down under the UV spectrum.

Thanks
UV isn't a concern really since most lighting doesn't put off a whole lot. it's not the same as being exposed to sunlight. either way, i've been running mine for close to 3 years without any problems. what lighting are you running that you're worried about UV?
 
No worries..

No worries..

Just have seen UV cause some materials to become brittle and crack over time and since this is, to my knowledge, a new material for an aquarium application I was curious how it held up over time.

Thanks
 
Re: No worries..

Re: No worries..

mlundstrom said:
Just have seen UV cause some materials to become brittle and crack over time and since this is, to my knowledge, a new material for an aquarium application I was curious how it held up over time.

Thanks
what materials are you talking about and what was the UV light coming from that they were exposed to? sunlight? MH? fluorescent?
 
kindafun said:
Quick question: Where are you getting Sil-o-Flex? Is this a product I can get at HD or Lowes? TIA
as stated several times, it can be found at lowes. i don't think HD carries exactly what i used.
 
kindafun said:
Quick question: Where are you getting Sil-o-Flex? Is this a product I can get at HD or Lowes? TIA

It's covered on several pages of the thread (page 1, 9, etc.), but it is getting to be a pretty big thread. To rehash for Electric130, it is generally found in Lowes, but some in Northern states have reported that it is not stocked in the Winter because it is generally used for irrigation. It is available year-round in NC. It is a black and semi-flexible/semi-rigid pipe. You usually find it in rolls of varying sizes, but our NC Lowes also sell it in 5' lengths. The advantage of the 5' lengths is that it is fairly straight already. If you get it in a roll it is much cheaper by the foot, but you have to buy way more than you need for this project, and you need to straighten it a bit (several suggestions for this several pages back). Many employees of Lowes in various stores may not know what you are talking about when you ask for it, but it is usually near irrigation and sometimes in general plumbing section. Look for black rolls and then see if they have smaller lengths nearby.

Cheers,
Greg
 
My tank is a bit different when it comes to my return. I have a Mag 18 that is teed at the top then goes to each side of the tank with 3/4" locline. I am thinking about doing this but having both ends of the spraybar be connected to my return. Does anyone think I will have an issue with the water coming into the spraybar from both ends? I am also thinking about doing one on each side of the tank instead of the back of the tank.
 
Thanks J.R. and Greg. Yeah, it's getting long, thanks for the patience. I know what this material is now, have used it for my home irrigation system! I bought that at a Standard Plumbing store.

Dan
 
96p993 said:
My tank is a bit different when it comes to my return. I have a Mag 18 that is teed at the top then goes to each side of the tank with 3/4" locline. I am thinking about doing this but having both ends of the spraybar be connected to my return. Does anyone think I will have an issue with the water coming into the spraybar from both ends? I am also thinking about doing one on each side of the tank instead of the back of the tank.
there's no issue other than the excessive head loss you're creating by having the T in there. you don't need that. just run one line straight off the pump into one end of the spraybar. there's no need or benefit to running it into both ends.
 
This has got to be a GOD send. I just went today at lunch and got most of the stuff to build a fuge and when I came here I found this thred. most deffently going to Lows and get the extras needed for this project..Thanks to all who posted here..Will post pictures in a week or so when project is finished...
 
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