How To Rid Cyano And Other Pest Algaes

This is a good thread from the past; originally posted by glaspak six years ago it resurfaces from time to time. Glaspak's original approach was pretty much right on and his techniques have withstood the tests of time.

Nutrient management is the key to solving algae problems. It is the only truly reef safe method. Two years ago someone advocated using the antibiotic, Maracyn, to cure cyanobacteria outbreaks. True cyano is somewhat borderline between a bacteria and algae but, if an antibiotic eliminates it, won't it also eliminate the bacteria that are keeping ammonia levels in check in your tank. Adding an antibiotic to a display tank is a very risky undertaking as it usually does more harm than good. There are also those who advocate the "slime algae" removal chemicals. I can tell you that a stiff dose of copper sulfate will kill cyano and also coralline, corals and probably your fish if the nitrogen cycle bacteria are also eliminated by dosing it. It is very hard to find a substance that zeros in and kills off just a particular organism. If there were we would not catch colds and billions of dollars have been spent on finding a cure for the common cold.

Glaspak had it right; the key is good tank management. Cyano is an especially hard bacteria/algae to eliminate even with good tank management and nutrient control. Why? Well he has a little trick up his sleeve. He can "fix" nitrogen, that is, he can take atmospheric or dissolved nitrogen and turn it into ammonia or nitrate. That is why tanks with low nitrate levels can have serious cyano outbreaks. Cyano can make their own food. They are also pretty much universal in our tanks as their nitrogen fixing abilities make them good symbionts for corals and sponges that harbor their cells.

The best means to control cyano, and many other nuisance algae for that matter, is phosphate control. If we can keep phosphate in check we can break the growth cycle of any algae who need it for nutrition. Water changes and good feeding practices help but phosphate is a component of all living cells and when they die, or during excretory elimination, they are released back into the water column. It also hides from our test kits as it often is in organic forms that are not detected by common test kits. One of the better methods for elimination of the element lies in using a phosphate reactor that removes phosphates using a ferric oxide removal media. These in combination with the ideas that Glaspak suggested in the original post in this thread can be a major help in keeping algae under control.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11504002#post11504002 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by leoslizards
Did you use Maracyn? What was the side effect?
The most common side effects of medication is that it also kills off some of your beneficial bacteria which might even make your tank go through a mini cycle. Adding carbon and large water changes would get rid of the medication.
I could see how Maracyn works. Maracyn is an anti-bacterial medicine and Cyano is a bacteria correct?

I just recently removed the cyano buy stirring it up so that my hob filter could get it but now it's all over my sand. I covered my whole tank with a towel today and I'm leaving the lights off for two days then see if that help. I'm also going to the store to get a turkey baster so that I can suck most of it off. Should I still feed my fish or let them starve for two days?

Wow, don't remember all the details now as it's been a couple years. I believe it was Maracyn that I used, and the effects were that I had a massive diatom bloom, followed by a hair algea bloom after eliminating the cyano. I didn't loose any corals or fish though.

Phil
 
This tank has been one algae outbreak after another. I've been using elevated Ph (8.5) for the past 2 weeks to eliminate dino's. Looks like it's working well, they're disappearing. And running carbon and GFO to help with that and the little bit of hair that's lingering.

Phil
 
Well Phil,

After almost two years I'm glad you found a solution. :D

Seriously, I never heard of using increased pH to control dinoflaggelates. Where did you get that info?
 
Right here on Reef central. Marc's editorial last month linked to the Reef Keeper article. http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-11/rhf/index.php Apparently it doesn't work for all type of dinoflaggelates. But it seems to be working on mine. I also increased my flow recently, so I'm sure that is helping too.

Now I'm trying to determine if the remaining fuzz on the rocks is hair or bryopsis. I'm leaning towards hair, since I'm not seeing any feather like structures. I'll try and post pictures later this week.

Phil
 
New 30 Gallon

New 30 Gallon

I'll try to keep this short. I have a 30 gallon drilled with wet/dry sump, and skimmer. I picked it up with stand and vho lighths for 75. Got it home and resealed it, repainted stand, did plumbed it. Set it up finally got salinity right. Added eggcrate dead rock, 1 piece of live rock friend gave me, dead sand and seeded with 20lbs of llive sand. 2 wave makers were placed in along with a heater. I placed a dead shrimp in for a five days and got Ammonia to 4ppm, nitrite 2, nitrate 20. Had to remove shrimp stinking up the place bad. Now what should I do next just dose with ammonia to keep up the cycle? Run skimmer? Now something growing in the tank and on rock. Ive included picture.What is it and what to do next?
 
I'm in my 4th week and think my cycle is over. Couple tests show no ammonia nitrates or nitrites. But now have good amount of algae. Green with some portions thick. Some loooooong strings flowing in the currents too. Lights are on a timer for 12 hr on with 30 min ramp up and down and 4 hrs moonlight. It's the main preprogrammed setting. I'm sure that's part of problem. Suggestions on good settings? Just put two chocolate clowns in and a peppermint shrimp but that's it. Going to wait until I resolve this first before adding just in case. I have orbit marine pro LEDs. Thx everyone
 
My tank is almost 3 months old. Right now I have 3 fish in my tank, a helfrichi firefish, a clownfish and a mccosker's flasher wrasse. I test the water 2x per week for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates and I test for alk, PH, calcium and magnesium about every 2 weeks when I do my water changes. I consistently test 0 for ammonia and nitrite. My nitrate levels fluctuate from around 1 to 5. I would like some guidance on how to best get rid of the sea lettuce that I am starting to notice in various places around the tank. At first I only saw one piece, but now I see small pieces of it turning up in various areas of the tank. I also have a little bit of GHA too. Any advice on how to get rid of the sea lettuce?
 
Is this brown jelly? What to do?

Is this brown jelly? What to do?

Earlier today i noticed one leg of my torch coral had its tenticles all sunk in and a brown looking thing on it. At first i thought some kind of worm. I tried to siphon it off and it sucked up like a goo.....and just left the skeletin of the coral.

Please see the pics. Is this brown jelly? I havnt found a solution for that?

It looks like my sun coral is now shriveling up and turning black/brown too.

I dknt know how this got there. I only fed the coral and fish yesterday...nothing new has been introduced for a week and i was following quarantine procedures.

Very frustrated and sad....
 

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