How to take photos under Blue LED's

steveb013

New member
Or Actinics..

So,

After getting incredibly frustrated looking at all these amazing coral shots showing amazing flouro colours under blue/actinic lights, and not being able to figure out how on earth they managed to capture the shots, I did some research and worked it out. Thought I'd share with you how to do it.

You will likely need a digital SLR though..

The first shot here is a shot of my orange fungia, under normal lights, easy enough to photograph although I still had to adjust a little in Lightroom.

IMG_0338_zpsa9e55b4e.jpg


Now, when I turn just the blue/purple lighting on, this thing glows pink/orange. The following awful shot was my first attempt at trying to get a photo of it, using Auto white balance on the camera.

IMG_0415_zpsf43224ef.jpg


So, I tried changing the WB around from auto, to cloudy to fluorescent to 10,000 kelvin, nothing worked, I managed a little luck with my green corals, but nothing with this guy.

I did some reading.. tried a bunch of techniques and this is the one that worked.

1. Turn whatever lights you want to take photos under, on.
2. Put a white piece of paper under the lights, and take a photo of it (keeping WB on auto, or play around if you want). You can also use a plate.
3. In your Menu, you'll likely have the option to select 'Custom WB' - Hit this button.
4. It should take you into your taken images, and straight to the photo of the paper (which, will look blue). Hit select, and the camera will ask if you want to use that image for WB, hit yes. It will then tell you to change your WB setting to 'Custom' which is a little symbol with two triangles either side of a circle usually.You
5. You then need to go back into your Menu settings and into the WB options, scroll till you get to the custom icon and select it.

Now, when you take your images, your WB will be correct and won't be washing out all your images with blues.

This is the same coral again, after I have adjusted my WB, MUCH better, but still not perfect, this can be fixed in post processing.

IMG_0476_zps38fe7145.jpg

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I hope this helps you guys, it's a bit of a pain to do, but getting shots showing how your tank ACTUALLY looks instead of always saying, 'it looks so much better than that'.. is worth it!

Steve
 
ALSO, you can do the same thing for taking shots of the tank under normal lights if you feel you just can't capture that perfect colour it shows. The following is a recent Chalice Coral addition, taken with Auto WB

IMG_0564_zps0879cad3.jpg


I then followed the steps above, but I used the image of the paper under the blue lights rather than taking a new photo under the normal lights, as my custom WB to see what it would look like.

This was the result, a bit yellow.

IMG_0577_zpsdc2b0a38.jpg


Finally, this is the shot of the chalice, showing its actual true colour! After following the steps again but with 1 DIFFERENCE, the shot I used as the base for my Custom WB, was actually a shot of the sand bed, under the normal lighting, not a piece of paper, all other steps are the same though. Here it is!

IMG_0710_zps871cca0f.jpg


So, three different white balance settings, three very different results.
 
Well yes there is that too.. ;)

But for those who don't understand RAW or have access (or knowledge) to use post-processing programs, it might help..
 
Upwards pointing thumbs for each of you! Bonus points to ducati for suggesting the calibrated monitor.

I dabbled with custom white balances and then decided to try RAW. Ever so happy I did. Easier and more accurate, IMHO. Shoot everything RAW.

steveb013, nice walkthrough on using and setting custom white balances, for those who opt for that route. The visual aids help to clarify the results of your efforts. Using sand for a white reference is good tip, assuming of course that the sand is white.
 
When you take the white shot, are you shooting it right in the water or just under the lights above water level? Just wondering because I've tried with white plastic underwater and haven't got great results. But you said paper so I'm assuming your not getting it wet.
 
When I used the paper I didn't get it wet no, so just under the lights above water.

You can just take a photo of the sand bed though (if it's white) and will do the same thing.

I tried a few different things, and colours to see what would work to get the closest to the real colour..
 
Can you guys elaborate on the computer monitor calibration?

Monitors vary considerably in their out of the box color and brightness. Calibration brings them inline with standard values. While I can't be sure the person who views my photos is doing so on a display with reasonable color and brightness, I can be sure that I created the photo appropriately.

I use SpyderPro 4. It analyzes the display and modifies the monitor's system profile to achieve standardized colors and brightness.
 
I don't know.

Typically a sensor is needed so the software can "see" the screen to make adjustments. With hardware involved, free seems less likely. SpyderPro includes a usb colorimeter.
 
Seems kind of expensive. Anything a little more... free?

I question the economics of calibration if your images are only going to be presented via the web. Your monitor can be spot on for a standard. Since it's going out to many uncalibrated monitors, I don't think it matters much.

If you were producing for a broadcast TV standard or print (offset, inkjet) then having calibrated for that media would be smart.

BTW, I have used a nice calibrator but haven't kept up with the calibrations for the above reason.
 
^is this an apple ipad app? Is it the free version or paid version? Is it difficult to use/learn? Thx
 
Lightroom is an Adobe Photoshop family product designed with the needs of the digital photographer in mind. It is not a smart phone app. While there can be a bit of a learning curve, once one establishes a workflow, it's really great.

Cost is typically $79-140 depending on purchase location. Adobe would rather one sign up for the Adobe Creative Cloud service where one pays $10-$30/month for online access to Adobe products.
 
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