RedEDGE2k1
Member
Henry,
I'll say what everyone is thinking, and what BeanAnimal is trying to say nicely.
Your jig sucks.
I'll say what everyone is thinking, and what BeanAnimal is trying to say nicely.
Your jig sucks.
I bet I have found the perfect wooden holding jig for building an acrylic aquarium!
- Thread starter Henry100
- Start date
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Henry,
Reading your description again, I think I misunderstood your description. Your jig is exactly like the one I posted, except that instead of cutting a relief angle at the back of the 90, you have simply create a gap. Is that correct?
IF that IS in fact the case, then yes your jig is one-size fits all as well. You have opted to leave the corner area open to allow access to the joint. Don't forget top notch or chamfer the corners of the end pieces so that they do not contact the acrylic panels
I had interpreted your description as a "sadle" type jig that both panels slip into (similar to a dovetail jig for a router).
Stu, you may want to look at the high end dovetail jigs for ideas. They clamp both work pieces and some allow for movement of one of the clamped pieces via a knob or lever.
Reading your description again, I think I misunderstood your description. Your jig is exactly like the one I posted, except that instead of cutting a relief angle at the back of the 90, you have simply create a gap. Is that correct?
IF that IS in fact the case, then yes your jig is one-size fits all as well. You have opted to leave the corner area open to allow access to the joint. Don't forget top notch or chamfer the corners of the end pieces so that they do not contact the acrylic panels
I had interpreted your description as a "sadle" type jig that both panels slip into (similar to a dovetail jig for a router).
Stu, you may want to look at the high end dovetail jigs for ideas. They clamp both work pieces and some allow for movement of one of the clamped pieces via a knob or lever.
Harry_Fish
In Memoriam
Ok, I have a headache so my brain is not up to speed today.
I'm trying to grasp this.... What am I mising.
I'm trying to grasp this.... What am I mising.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Henry,
please read the post after that. It should be more clear. I do understand after reading your unclear description a few more times
Harry,
The jig Henry proposes is exactly like the jig I posted except that he has arranged the two large pieces to leave a gap where they form the 90 degree angle. If you look at my jig, I relief cut the back of the jig so that it does not touch the acrylic at the seam.
Harry_Fish
In Memoriam
Bean, I think I get it.....
I'll have to wit till my head clears
I'll have to wit till my head clears
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
A few thoughs Henry to help you:
1) Leaving a gap in the back of the jig is certainly acceptable.
2) You may want to mimic the construction method I used. The "gussets" will be stronger and more accurate than "end-caps". If your gussets are sawn square, then the jig will be square and you do not have to worry about getting the end caps lined up to create a right angle.
3) The gusset method allows clamps to be place near the corner whereas the endcap method dicates the clamps need to be further from the actual corner. (see my photo).
4) Instead of trying to create the gap by spacing the panels. Build the jig as I did and then run it through the table saw once on each face to cut out the back and gussets to leave the desired gap. You will save yourself a lot of grief trying to build a properly spaced right and alinged right angle jig that way
1) Leaving a gap in the back of the jig is certainly acceptable.
2) You may want to mimic the construction method I used. The "gussets" will be stronger and more accurate than "end-caps". If your gussets are sawn square, then the jig will be square and you do not have to worry about getting the end caps lined up to create a right angle.
3) The gusset method allows clamps to be place near the corner whereas the endcap method dicates the clamps need to be further from the actual corner. (see my photo).
4) Instead of trying to create the gap by spacing the panels. Build the jig as I did and then run it through the table saw once on each face to cut out the back and gussets to leave the desired gap. You will save yourself a lot of grief trying to build a properly spaced right and alinged right angle jig that way
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Renderings coming right up....
With my jig you can put the side panel(acrylic) either inside the gap or outside of it,while with the jig of Bean and others,there is only one option,the second one of these two.I prefer to put the side panel inside the gap as it seems to be more easy to handle the jig and the panel while trying to put them in their final position at the edge of the front panel.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Okay: Here is my jig. Notice the chamfer along the back edge. This is to prevent the jig from contacint the joint and interfereing with the solvent. Also notice the supports are inset to allow clamps to be place close to the corners. The supports were cut with perfect 90 degree corners and used to align the larger panels. This method ensures the jig IS square.
Below is the jig the Henry proposed. The supports are in the way of the clamps and the jig is hard to put together. There is no positive positioning of the pieces. The accuracy of the jig depends on how well the builder user puts it together.
Here is what I have proposed to Henry to make his idea work: Build the jig exactly like I built mine. Then use the table saw to cut out the slot. This ensures the jig is built square AND has the slot in it, as well as clamping area.
A few views of all (3) jigs.
Left: My design adapted to your desire for a SLOT
Center: My basic Jig design
Right: Your Jig as described by you
Left: Your jig as described by you
Center: my basic jig design
Right: My design adapted to your desire for a SLOT
I hope you can see why the construction method of the jig is half the game.
Below is the jig the Henry proposed. The supports are in the way of the clamps and the jig is hard to put together. There is no positive positioning of the pieces. The accuracy of the jig depends on how well the builder user puts it together.
Here is what I have proposed to Henry to make his idea work: Build the jig exactly like I built mine. Then use the table saw to cut out the slot. This ensures the jig is built square AND has the slot in it, as well as clamping area.
A few views of all (3) jigs.
Left: My design adapted to your desire for a SLOT
Center: My basic Jig design
Right: Your Jig as described by you
Left: Your jig as described by you
Center: my basic jig design
Right: My design adapted to your desire for a SLOT
I hope you can see why the construction method of the jig is half the game.
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BeanAnimal
Premium Member
With all due respect Henry, you keep telling us your design is better, but in both applications (used as an INSIDE jig or an OUTSIDE jig) the design can be improved.
I have provided you with a plan for building a better jig based on your desire to have a "slot". The rendering is above. Your original design does not provide for easy construction of the jig (self alignment of the parts) and does not allow for easy clamping close to the joint.
Used OUTSIDE of the joint (as you described above), the jig does not allow for easy clamping and you are limited in panel size by the space between the jigs support structure.
Again Henry, there are a dozen ways to skin a cat. Each of us has our own preference when it comes to technique and methodology. I have kindly pointed out WHY I do not prefer your design and methods to improve it.
On a side note:
A recurring theme in many of your threads is "I, Henry, have come up with the BEST way of doing so and so". It tends to put people off a bit my friend
Thank you for your good words about my jig,Bean!...lol.I would like to talk about the rendering of my jig.I want the endcaps being full square pieces,without grooves.Furthermore,the width of the gap has to be larger than it is depicted here.The clamps must be used on the vertical piece of the jig,above the endcaps.So there isn't any interference of the endcaps and the clamps.This is my jig as I have thought it.This is my patent,the original ''Henry's jig''.I would like a new rendering Bean,if it is easy for you.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
No you don't
If the endcaps touch the joint, they will interfere with the solvent weld.It is a rendering Henry, not a literal blueprint. Furthermore, the larger the gap, the less support you have near the joint and the harder it will be to ensure a perfect corner.
The jig has to be large enough and stiff enough to handle the panels. Remeber the tank is (4) sided, It can get pretty wobbly after (3) sides are attached together.
The supports (end caps) will end up being larger than you suspect. You want the clamps as close as possible to the joint. Furthermore, as I explained, using "end caps" instead of gussets makes jig construction MUCH harder.
Take it from somebody who spends a lot of time building jigs, wood working and building acrylic projects, Henry
If you spend an hour or so with a free CAD package or google sketchup you can design and render your own 3D drawings
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13883406#post13883406 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
No you don't
Don't insist on talking about the endcaps.These have not to do anything with the joint.They should be out of the joint,one at its right and the other at its left.Don't mesh my jig with yours...
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Here is the modification you requested Henry. I hope you can see how flimsy the jig is starting to look compared to the others and ow the support for the joint and clamping area are moving far away from ideal.
Don't take this the wrong way, but your SLOT is the only workable part of your idea. The rest is moving in the wrong direction.
I am going to be very frank here. You have just started working with acrylic (and wood from what I understand). You would be much better served learning to use the tools that others have perfected before setting off to invent your own. Once you perfect your woodworking and tank building skills, then you can look for ways to improve the process. You will then have much better insight ot what really works and what doesn't. As it stands now you are inventing things that you don't have much experience working with and claiming they are the "best" and something to "patent".
Take a deep breath and let us help you Henry.
