I bet I have found the perfect wooden holding jig for building an acrylic aquarium!

Furthermore,I don't think the edge of the side panel can move during solvent welding.The pressure of the syringe,while applying solvent,is too little(if any) on the side panel's edge.Also,the holding point is higher than the edge,but this doesn't mean the edge can move(or can move easilly).All the weight of the side panel is at this edge,thus it isn't so easy to move it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13883449#post13883449 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Henry100
Don't insist on talking about the endcaps.These have not to do anything with the joint.They should be out of the joint,one at its right and the other at its left.Don't mesh my jig with yours...

Henry,

You are talking about using the jig on the OUTSIDE of the panels. That means

1) The jig MUST be wider than the widest panel set you intend to glue

2) The jig MUST not be so wide that the clamps can not reach the acrylic panels.

In other words, you need a custom jig for each panel height. So I ask again, what is the benefit of all of that work? The jig will save you no time. It will take you more effort and material to build. It is poorly designed from a mechanical standpoint and not easy to align during construction. It will only work with a small range of panel sizes. etc. etc.

Unless you plan is to do a large run of the SAME size of tank, the jig (as you designed it and intend to use it) is not well suited to the task at hand.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13883501#post13883501 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Henry100
Furthermore,I don't think the edge of the side panel can move during solvent welding.The pressure of the syringe,while applying solvent,is too little(if any) on the side panel's edge.Also,the holding point is higher than the edge,but this doesn't mean the edge can move(or can move easilly).All the weight of the side panel is at this edge,thus it isn't so easy to move it.

If you say so Henry. Honestly, at this point you appear to be refusing to acknowledge what has been said here. I have tried to help but I am done. Good luck with your project Henry.
 
For my original jig,I would like the new rendering having less wide horizontal and vertical pieces so as not to extent too much from the endcaps.That's how I have thought it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13883503#post13883503 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
Henry,

You are talking about using the jig on the OUTSIDE of the panels. That means

1) The jig MUST be wider than the widest panel set you intend to glue

2) The jig MUST not be so wide that the clamps can not reach the acrylic panels.

In other words, you need a custom jig for each panel height. So I ask again, what is the benefit of all of that work? The jig will save you no time. It will take you more effort and material to build. It is poorly designed from a mechanical standpoint and not easy to align during construction. It will only work with a small range of panel sizes. etc. etc.

Unless you plan is to do a large run of the SAME size of tank, the jig (as you designed it and intend to use it) is not well suited to the task at hand.

Again,I can't understand what you are saying.It seems we follow different processes for building tanks.My jig can be used during this process:
1)gluing side panels with front panel,which is at a horizontal position on the workbench.
Then,my jig has to be 25'' long(maximum),as aquariums are usually 24'' deep or lower.It's the depth of an aquarium which has to do something with my jig,not the length or the width.
 
Henry, as with many of your threads, you made all kinds of assumptions and skipped much of the logic to arrive at your "this is the best" conclusion. You do not understand what I am saying becuase you are not listening :)

Heny lets say you want to glue (2) panels together on their 24" sides. Your jig needs to have 24" between the supports. The design is flimsy my friend. What else can I say but there are a dozen better ways to go about it.

Furthermore, that SAME 25" jig would be wortheless when attempting to glue (2) panels together that formed an 18" seam. If you center the joint in the length of the jig, then your clamps need to reach at least 4" to be able to secure the panels. I have a workshop full of clamps Henry, the only ones that have a 4" jaw are HUGE and could NEVER be hung off of your proposed JIG.

By your own admission in another thread, you are fairly new to building acrylic tanks, and If I remember you asked for woodworking help in another thread also. No problem there my friend, but I am not sure how you have become an expert in such a short time :)

In any case, if you can't see the flaws, as they have been clearly pointed it, then I can't help you any further. I have honestly attempted to help you refine your design and method but you appear to insist you have it all figured out. So with that in mind, everything that needs to be said here has already been said. It is up to you to either use the information or ignore it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13883700#post13883700 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
Henry, as with many of your threads, you made all kinds of assumptions and skipped much of the logic to arrive at your "this is the best" conclusion. You do not understand what I am saying becuase you are not listening :)

Heny lets say you want to glue (2) panels together on their 24" sides. Your jig needs to have 24" between the supports. The design is flimsy my friend. What else can I say but there are a dozen better ways to go about it.

Furthermore, that SAME 25" jig would be wortheless when attempting to glue (2) panels together that formed an 18" seam. If you center the joint in the length of the jig, then your clamps need to reach at least 4" to be able to secure the panels. I have a workshop full of clamps Henry, the only ones that have a 4" jaw are HUGE and could NEVER be hung off of your proposed JIG.

By your own admission in another thread, you are fairly new to building acrylic tanks, and If I remember you asked for woodworking help in another thread also. No problem there my friend, but I am not sure how you have become an expert in such a short time :)

In any case, if you can't see the flaws, as they have been clearly pointed it, then I can't help you any further. I have honestly attempted to help you refine your design and method but you appear to insist you have it all figured out. So with that in mind, everything that needs to be said here has already been said. It is up to you to either use the information or ignore it.

Well said bean!
 
if you learn how to roll acrylic like this... it will hold itself 90 with no clamps.....nano stlye 100gallon rimless frag tanks.......
IMG00163.jpg

IMG00162.jpg

frag3.jpg
 
Henry, I do not see any benefit in your design. You came up on one of the problems when you were forced to use weighed cans for clamps. Bean's jig, which I should point out is nothing new and has been around for many, many years in one form or another, solves that problem. Sure, Bean would have to use two jigs for a similar size tank, but, and this is key, Bean can make a bigger tank without having to make another jig. ;) Your single jig can only make a tank as wide or narrower than itself.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13997517#post13997517 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
Mark, how dare you infer that I copied somebody elses jig :D

:lol: Infer? I just came out and said it! :D
 
Okay... so I may have seen something kinda like it before but I improved the design by adjusting the ratio of the parallel side that is perpendicular to the vertical face leading to the vertex of the right angle formed at the junction of the adjacent face that is horizontal to that vertex. Now without drawing a tangent to the radius of the circle formed by arc interesting the chord formed by the hypotenuse, one would not be able to optimize said ratio and increase the clamping pressure available at the designated clamp locations.... so the design may look familiar... but like Daffy said to bugs "Its mine... mine mine... all mine"
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13997441#post13997441 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MarkS
Henry, I do not see any benefit in your design. You came up on one of the problems when you were forced to use weighed cans for clamps. Bean's jig, which I should point out is nothing new and has been around for many, many years in one form or another, solves that problem. Sure, Bean would have to use two jigs for a similar size tank, but, and this is key, Bean can make a bigger tank without having to make another jig. ;) Your single jig can only make a tank as wide or narrower than itself.

The benefit of my design is obvious,you can glue plexiglas from the side of the jig,something which is impossible with Bean's jig.Furthermore,weighed cans are only optional,as the jig stays steady by its own.I put them there for making the jig rock steady,in case of the appearance of strong winds or a sudden hit by a person.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13997589#post13997589 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
Okay... so I may have seen something kinda like it before but I improved the design by adjusting the ratio of the parallel side that is perpendicular to the vertical face leading to the vertex of the right angle formed at the junction of the adjacent face that is horizontal to that vertex. Now without drawing a tangent to the radius of the circle formed by arc interesting the chord formed by the hypotenuse, one would not be able to optimize said ratio and increase the clamping pressure available at the designated clamp locations.... so the design may look familiar... but like Daffy said to bugs "Its mine... mine mine... all mine"

:spin2:

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13997748#post13997748 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Henry100
The benefit of my design is obvious,you can glue plexiglas from the side of the jig,something which is impossible with Bean's jig.

You don't want to do that! Applying solvent from the other side assures that little to none make it past the joint and mar the inside of the tank. You're going to end up with solvent stains on the inside of your tank at best and crazing at worst. No one glues from the inside.

Henry, no one here is trying to bash you or make you look stupid. We've been doing this for quite some time. We've all started off as you have, made mistakes and have learned from them. What we are trying to do is guide you away from those mistakes. You can either trust us or end up with many headaches and an empty wallet (acrylic is expensive...).
 
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