I give up on cutting the 1/2" glass

cerreta

Premium Member
Crap. I bought the new cutters. They work well, but I just don't have the skills to cut razor straight lines in this thick glass.

If I get motivated again, I may try to cut 1/4" glass. But, buying a ready made tanks is looking pretty attractive right now. This chiller stand nano quest i skilling me.

I can buy a 30" tall Oceanic at PetsMart for $237, but I would have to rebuild the stand and still cut a couple holes and put in an overflow. If I bought this, I would have to rebuild the chiller stand too.

I will look into buying a custom size.
 
Has to be a deep score for 1/2' or it will freestyle. Have a glass shop cut it to size, they have a machine.
 
Lee mar actually has a buffing machine to smooth out the cuts and get the diamond edge. I am not sure if a razor cut is possible on 1/2 inch think glass. Not sure what the process is or what kind of material is used. I want to take a tour one day though.
 
What size tank are you building that needs 1/2" glass? I've only cut 1/8" galass, and it didn't turn out well. :lol:
 
The shop I checked out could not cut it. I pretty much wasted the 1/2" stuff I had. I did make several cuts that would be fine if I had the tools to fine tune the edge. I guess that is where I went wrong.

I do not need 1/2" glass. I was using it because I had a bunch of it laying around. What a fiasco.

I have teh design done.

Rob, can you price this from LeeMar for me. Please get me three four quotes.
1. Price as is with all 4 holes and overflow.
2. Price with 3 holes as marked but no overflow.
3. Price with no holes and overflow without hole.
4. Price with no holes and no overflow.

This would be appeciated. I will post link in a minute
 
Well, I managed to cut up some 1/4" glass without too much difficulty. I just need one more piece for the front of the tank. I should have this built next week some time.
 
Ok, I have begun. I bought the one panel I needed for $11. Much cheaper than I anticipated. It was from Tucson Glass and Mirror. I found out that they can cut the 1/2" for me too. I may go this route in the future.

The hardest part of the project thus far has been cleaning the old silicone off the glass. That took forever.

The scariest part was placing that first panel on. I really could have used an extra set of hands on this one. But, once I got the side panel on, I just used the duct tape to secure the two pieces and viola! The rest of the pieces went on easy. I had to nudge the glass to get teh corners to sit on the proper spots and that was it.

I did not do this on my own. I used some online instructions for tank building. Here it is:
http://saltaquarium.about.com/cs/aquariumdiy/a/aa120897diyaq.htm

Here are the pictures of the project today.

This is the glass that has been cut, prepped and marked for placement.
30gallonNanoGlass001.jpg


This is the front and right side panel fitted to the bottom glass. You can also see that the overflow wall is in place. I did not have a piece long enough, so I will use two pieces of glass and one piece of black acrylic with slits for the overflow. I will then spray the overflow wall with foam to hind all the seams.
30gallonNanoGlass004.jpg


Here is another view of the same panels.
30gallonNanoGlass005.jpg


Here, the top glass portion of the overflow is in place. I forgot to drill a hole in it, so I might have to remove it to drill.
The back panel and left side panel is in place too.
30gallonNanoGlass006.jpg



I ran beads of silicone on the corners for the bottom and sump area. I too did this for the main tank, but I will trim it back so no silicone is seen in the tank. This is how LeeMar builds. They let silicone in th ejoints do the work. I like this too, because when using a razor blade to scrape the glass it is too easy to slice into the silicone bead, thus weakening the joint.

Here is a better shot of the sump section.
30gallonNanoGlass007.jpg


I will let it cure for 24+ hours then remove the extra silicone from the outside and inside edges of the main tank section.

I then have to cut the black acrylic to fit and cut clits too. This should be fun :rolleyes: I have not had luck with a router for this job before, but I will look into using a jig and some online guides for how to do it. Anyone know of any?

After all this, I will place a plastic brace on the top and bottom. Next is a water tight test. Then it wil be ready to drill holes in the sump, overflow wall, and the main display for a CLC.
 
Scott,
looking great... I have cut the slits in overflows using my tablesaw. they are thinner then a router and guide will give you, if you have the guide it will be easy.
I can cut the slit for you anytime if you haven't finished the project yet.
 
Thanks for the offer Vince. I will try cutiing the slots today. If I bugger it up, I will give you a call.

Rob. Nope. According to online the calculators I do not need to. Besides, this tank has the overflow wall going from one side panel to the other, which adds additional support.

I should be ok. Remeber when I cut the 13" center brace down to 5" in my 110 tall. All is good with that! So I like living on the edge. . . hehehe
 
I should mnetion that I am going to use the plastic edging on th etop and bottom of the tank for added support and protection of the vulnerable edges. This is where many tanks without trim start to weaken under pressure.
 
Scott,
did you finish? post some pics if you did. I am going to make a couple of 48x18x12 in frag tanks out of glass. they will frameless like what Aquarium Obsession is making. first I need to clean out my garage... :lmao:
 
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