I give up on these %%$#@#$% microbubbles!!!!

I turned down the output and the bubble went away. Not happy about turning it down, I think I will redo the plumbing with 45 degree turns instead of 90 degree
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8558366#post8558366 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by griss
Not sure if this is true, but I read somewhere that having bends in the pipe before the pump can cause the impeller to cavitate, thus causing microbubbles.

That is a true statement.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8559060#post8559060 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by stlouisguy
I turned down the output and the bubble went away. Not happy about turning it down, I think I will redo the plumbing with 45 degree turns instead of 90 degree


Spa Flex..... :D
 
Okay where the heck do I get spa flex for 1 1/2 " at

Just got off the phone with Reeflo and they said a small noise I hear now and then and the micro is because of the 1 1/2" pipe intake and its a design issue. Should have a 2" intake but it doesnt.
 
HD or Lowes carryes spa flex. Are you going bigger I have the same problem with my pump and micro bubbles and I have a straight shot. I had to turn my pump down also.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8559060#post8559060 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by stlouisguy
I turned down the output and the bubble went away. Not happy about turning it down, I think I will redo the plumbing with 45 degree turns instead of 90 degree

I think you may have better luck doing what Mayoboy suggested. Increasing your PVC size is a good way to go.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8559072#post8559072 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Markk96
That is a true statement.

General rule of thumb is 5-10 O.P.D's (Outside Pipe Diameter) of straight run from the suction port to any fittings. If this is impossible, the next best bet is to radically upsize the plumbing (i.e. minimum 2 pipe sizes larger; 1-1/2 go to 2-1/2, if 2" go to 3" etc.) and use a concentric or eccentric reducer right at the suction port; or in our case something like this:

sch80reduc.jpg



(spa flex more or less just counts as one long straight run since the curves are so sweeping and don't appreciably affect flow)
 
I have a 2" intake on my hammer head with problems.

I had good luck with 1 1/2" SPA flex. I didn't have very good luck with 2" flex though.

How much 1 1/2" flex do you need?

I got mine from www.Savko.com. Remember if you order from them place the order over the phone. There prices on SPA flex is a lot cheaper than HD or Lowes, even after the Shipping.
 
Would it hurt if his bulk head is 1 1/2" to up size the pipe after that, and use a 2" to 1 1/2" reducer back to the pump. I know it won't hurt but will it help?

Clark if you up grade to 2".... I have a 2" threaded on both ends ballvalve I don't plan on using. I paid 11.92 for it, I would trade for some of those zoo's!! :D
 
But if you decide to go with 1 1/2" Flex.. I might have 3-5 feet of that I could trade for some zoo's too... :D Depending on how much you need.
 
I have some spa flex in the closet I don't need, How long do you need. I could bring by tomorrow, as I am taking the day off. It is at least 1 1/2" or maybe it was 1 1/4".

I will check when I get home.
 
I have heard that it is tough to make stick/get a good seal on it. I really think I am going to stick with pvc and go with 45 degree turns instead of 90's I would think that would accomplish the same thing, especially if I increase to 2" pipe between the connections
 
I also have some of the strongest PVC cement. The super or something. It worked for me and I had problems with the spa flex and the regular PVC cement, but this stronger stuff works fine.
 
Clark,
Ive been using Spa flex on my 58 gallon for the last 2 years w/no issues. I used barbed fittings to attach my spa flex, (no glue), and no problems.

Nick
 
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