I need plumbing help

Hitch08

Hitch08

New member
I've spent way to much time today trying to figure this out. I'd really appreciate some help.

I have a 120 gallon Mainland corner-flo tank. As a result, I have two 1.75" pre-cut holes. With that, it sounds like a Bean Animal is it for me. I have a Mag-drive 9.5 as my return pump, so I have a .75" MPT outlet. The instructions suggested 1.5" tubing.

Here's what I have designed for plumbing:

Return: Mag-drive .75" MPT --> .75" FPT x 1.50" slip --> 1.50" Spa Flex --> 1.50" Union slip --> 1.5" PVC or Spa Flex --> 1.5" slip Gate Valve --> 1.5" Spa Flex --> 1.5" 90* elbow --> 1.5" PVC --> 1.5" 90* elbow --> 1.5" slip bushing x .75" FPT --> .75" MPT Loc Line which splits to two 2.5" flare nozzles.

For the drain plumbing, using mainly 1.5" (from the top):

Main drain: Overflow strainer 1.5" MPT --> 1.5" FMT x 1.5" slip --> 1.5" PVC --> 1.5" slip bushing x 1.0" slip --> 1.0" slip bulkhead x 1.5" MPT --> 1.5" FPT x 1.5" slip --> 1.5" PVC --> 1.5" slip Gate Valve --> 1.5" PVC or Spa Flex into sump

Second drain: 1.5" PVC -->1.5" slip bushing x 1.0" slip --> 1.0" slip bulkhead x 1.0" MPT --> 1.0" FPT x 1.5" slip --> 1.5" PVC or Spa Flex into sump

Does that make sense?

The one thing I haven't addressed is the possibility of having threaded fittings in the corner-flo above the bulkhead. I seem to recall advice that it's a good idea to have that. However, I can't seem to find fittings that would enable me to do it with 1.5" PVC into the sump.

If I used 1.0" PVC, I could go:

Main drain: Overflow strainer 1.0" MPT --> 1.0" FPT x 1.0" slip --> 1.0" PVC --> 1.0" slip x 1.0" FPT --> 1.0" MPT double threaded bulkhead x 1.5" MPT --> 1.5" FPT x 1.5" slip --> 1.5" PVC --> 1.5" slip Gate Valve x 1.5" slip --> 1.5" PVC or Spa Flex into the sump.

Second drain: 1.0" PVC --> 1.0" slip x 1.0" FPT --> 1.0" MPT double threaded bulkhead x 1.5" MPT --> 1.5" FPT x 1.5" slip ---> PVC or Spa Flex into sump.

Should I use two 1.5" drains or two 1.0" drains (not sure how much that matters when the bulkhead is 1.0". I'd really appreciate some thoughts and advice. This stuff makes my head spin. Thanks, in advance.
 
This is a Herbie drain. http://gmacreef.com/herbie-overflow-reef-tank-plumbing-method-basics/

Only use slip fittings in the overflow box and do not glue anything.

I would just use 1" pipe on the drains. I would avoid any flex PVC if possible and try to use only 45's for your turns. If you go to 1.5" you'll just be closing off the valve that much more. Especially using a Mag 9.5. At 5 ft of head and not accounting for friction loss, the pump is rated at 685 gph. There's no way it would keep up with 1.5" pipe. I would put unions directly under the tank so if you ever had to remove the drains you don't have to hack up your plumbing. The full siphon should terminate no more than 1" below the water level in the sump. The emergency should terminate above the water level to give you an audible alert that your full siphon has been compromised.

On the return pump I would upsize it to 1". 3/4" FPT x 1" slip adapter and a length of pipe that terminates at the water level, then another adapter and then a union. Normally I would suggest a true union ball valve, but you won't be dialing back this pump on that tank. From there you have your choice between rigid PVC or vinyl. Since you're going up and over the back of the tank I would just use rigid pvc. You may have to wrap the pipe where it hangs on the rim of the tank with pipe insulation to eliminate any vibration.
 
First off, thanks for the thoughts. I really appreciate it.

Yes (and UGH!) a herbie - not a bean. I was reading that same website just a day ago. My brain was completely fried last night.

Slip fittings in the overflow box without glue is great advice! That will make things much easier.

On my return pump, I've been uncomfortable with it since shortly after I bought it. It was recommended to me at the fish place when I bought the tank. The suggestion was that the corner-flo max'es out at 700 gph. The information on the box shows 770 gph at 5'. Danner's website, however, indicates 685 gph at 5'. I just called Danner and learned that the website number is low. In other words, 770 at 5' is correct. At 7' it will pump 650 gph.

My understanding is that 700 gph is on the low side for a 120 gallon tank, so I want to stay as close as possible to what the corner-flo will handle.

Another question - should I "T" off the return pump plumbing for flow to the fuge? Or should I run a separate pump for that? I have not built the sump yet, but plan to this weekend. My intention is to have three sections: drain/skimmer; return pump/heaters; fuge.

I'm not against getting another pump. I would keep this one as a backup and could find one that is more energy efficient and has a bit higher flow.
 
I wouldn't tee off the mag pump. You're already pretty low at around 5x turnover. You can't go by the "Corner Flow" recommendations as you're not running a durso. I would however cut the teeth off the weir and attach plastic gutter guard behind it. Or even better just cut the whole box down to a hair above the trim and then attach the gutter guard as a fence and more on top. This will substantially increase your surface skimming.

Personally, I like one separate pump running to a manifold for various equipment. For example, refugiums, GAC, GFO, UV, RDSB, ATS, Ca Rx, etc., etc.
 
Not my photo, but you get the idea.

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CuzzA said:
I wouldn't tee off the mag pump. You're already pretty low at around 5x turnover. You can't go by the "Corner Flow" recommendations as you're not running a durso. I would however cut the teeth off the weir and attach plastic gutter guard behind it. Or even better just cut the whole box down to a hair above the trim and then attach the gutter guard as a fence and more on top. This will substantially increase your surface skimming.

Personally, I like one separate pump running to a manifold for various equipment. For example, refugiums, GAC, GFO, UV, RDSB, ATS, Ca Rx, etc., etc.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the picture!

So you run one pump for all of that stuff?

I wasn't sure if it was the durso or the weir that was limiting the "Corner Flow" to 700 gph. I read somewhere on here that someone thought it was the weir. I'll look into swapping out the weir for some gutter guard. I very much like the idea, but I'm concerned about screwing it up.

If I do that, and "T" off to feed the refugium, it sounds like I should more seriously consider a new pump.
 
The durso. The overflow doesn't care, the water will just keep rising above the weir until it reaches an equilibrium with the pump.

As far as cutting the overflow, a oscillating multi tool for a few bucks at Harbor Freight plus the moon blade would make quick work of it. Just keep the overflow wet with a hose so the abs plastic doesn't gum up and melt on you while your cutting. Cut a little and stop, then repeat. I would mark where to cut with duct tape or even better attach a guide and make sure you are not below the bottom of the trim or you'll see the water line. Sand it smooth decreasing grit size.

http://t.harborfreight.com/oscillating-multifunction-power-tool-68861-8493.html

Then figure out how to secure the gutter guard. Ace Hardware usually cares it. I would think a 2 part epoxy would secure it just fine.

I don't run one pump for all that stuff. I was just giving examples of the different things that require a pump. Better off to by a properly sized pump now to run it all, rather than end up with 5 Maxijets in your sump. Planning ahead if you will.

Perhaps you could get a new return pump and use the mag drive for the manifold pump.

For example on my 300 gallon build I'm using this manifold on one pump. I can run 9 different things from one pump.

http://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?p=PVC-Manifolds&p_id=672-4640&xm=on&ppinc=detail
 
Last edited:
I'm thinking about getting a Fluval Sea SP4. It won't reduce my power consumption, but it's more pump and will give me the ability to try to increase flow, Tee off for the refugium and some extra for later.

Anyone have any other suggestions?
 
(The head loss number I quoted above is the calculated number that takes into account the plumbing size, height and the fittings)
 
Hitch08 said:
I've spent way to much time today trying to figure this out. I'd really appreciate some help.

I have a 120 gallon Mainland corner-flo tank. As a result, I have two 1.75" pre-cut holes. With that, it sounds like a Bean Animal is it for me. I have a Mag-drive 9.5 as my return pump, so I have a .75" MPT outlet. The instructions suggested 1.5" tubing.

Here's what I have designed for plumbing:

Return: Mag-drive .75" MPT --> .75" FPT x 1.50" slip --> 1.50" Spa Flex --> 1.50" Union slip --> 1.5" PVC or Spa Flex --> 1.5" slip Gate Valve --> 1.5" Spa Flex --> 1.5" 90* elbow --> 1.5" PVC --> 1.5" 90* elbow --> 1.5" slip bushing x .75" FPT --> .75" MPT Loc Line which splits to two 2.5" flare nozzles.

For the drain plumbing, using mainly 1.5" (from the top):

Main drain: Overflow strainer 1.5" MPT --> 1.5" FMT x 1.5" slip --> 1.5" PVC --> 1.5" slip bushing x 1.0" slip --> 1.0" slip bulkhead x 1.5" MPT --> 1.5" FPT x 1.5" slip --> 1.5" PVC --> 1.5" slip Gate Valve --> 1.5" PVC or Spa Flex into sump

Second drain: 1.5" PVC -->1.5" slip bushing x 1.0" slip --> 1.0" slip bulkhead x 1.0" MPT --> 1.0" FPT x 1.5" slip --> 1.5" PVC or Spa Flex into sump

Does that make sense? .
Click to expand...

Way to many fittings and complication. Every fitting and especially Ts Nd elbows reduce your flow.


Return: Mag-drive .75" MPT --> .75" FPT x 1" slip --> 1" SuperFlex --> 1" slip Gate Valve --> 1" SuperFlex --> 1" 90* elbow -(only if absutly needed)-> 1" slip bushing x .75" FPT --> .75" MPT Loc Line which splits to two 2.5" flare nozzles.

Main drain: Overflow strainer 1.5" MPT --> 1.5" FMT x 1.5" slip --> 1.5" PVC --> 1.5" slip bushing x 1.0" slip --> 1.0" slip bulkhead x 1" SuperFlex-> 1" slip Gate Valve --> 1" SuperFlex. into sump.
Second drain the same.
 
When making my sump, with a 40BR, is .75" enough of a gap under the "high" baffle of the over-under-over bubble trap? Should I go bigger or smaller?

Thanks!
 
1.5" happens to be the thickness of a 2x4. So that's the space I always have under my center baffles. ;) Also, just a tip, the space between the baffles will dictate the velocity of water traveling through them. Too skinny and the water will be moving very fast and not give bubbles an opportunity to reach the surface. I use my "Rule of Forearm" for spacing baffles. Measure the width of your forearm from the tip of your fingers up your arm equal to the height of the baffle and use that to determine the space between the baffles. This will guarantee a slower velocity allowing the bubbles to pop, but also give you ample access to clean between the baffles.
 
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