ich issue

[antbreon]

having issues..had a tank get ich bad lost most of them distpite removal of all corals and copper safe treatment ..been good for a couple weeks..now tank has copper in it ..current fish appear ich free..setting up a new tank..all my corals are sitting in a rubbermade tote..for 40 days fish free..got a new flame angel..pt him in with the other fish with the copper..as a quarenteen ..had ich within 24 hours..could have had it just couldnt see it when i got him ..he is now in a 2.5..with a lower salinity.

transferr method...

how long or how many time should you transfer a new fish..
does this sound about right???

i have 2- 2.5gal tanks drain and clean with fresh hot water after each transfer and fill with fresh salt water...??lower salinity???

IE got a new fish from the store...transfer every 3 days for 2 weeks ..then finish out the 37 days..without transfer

and should you run low salinity as well..

and last question..not used in thetransferr method but .... when does copper kill the ich ..i assume in the last stage..tomites..before they attach or does it get them in the protomont stage after leaving the fish as well..

 

[dunc101]

how long or how many time should you transfer a new fish..
does this sound about right???

As little as possible. The more times they are transferred, the more stress on them.

i have 2- 2.5gal tanks drain and clean with fresh hot water after each transfer and fill with fresh salt water...??lower salinity???

Topping off with freshwater will lower the salinity. For hypo, you need to keep it ata 1.008 - 1.009. There are some awesome stickies showing how to use hypo here.
A 2.5 gallon, though, is way to small, even for a QT for a dwarf flame angel. Try to get a 10 gallon or 20 long. Also, make sure you have some water movement so the fish have ample oxygen in the water.

IE got a new fish from the store...transfer every 3 days for 2 weeks ..then finish out the 37 days..without transfer

Could you clarify this statement?

and should you run low salinity as well..

hypo or copper is the only thing that kills ich... If you are talking in general whenever you put any fish in QT... you need to make sure the particular fish you bought can withstand hypo. Certain fish do not do well with hypo at all!

and last question..not used in thetransferr method but .... when does copper kill the ich ..i assume in the last stage..tomites..before they attach or does it get them in the protomont stage after leaving the fish as well..

There has been plenty of discussion on this subject...I believe hypo only works on the last stage as mentioned. Some people believe that certain copper meds work in multiple stages (I believe this was most people's consensus but I cannot be positive... I'll let others comment). Cupramine seems to be the copper treatment of choice for ich around here.
In either regards, it is very important that after you put all your fish in QT, you wait 4 weeks AFTER you see the last sign of ich on ANY fish before finishing returning the salinity back up to normal (if using hypo as the treatment). It is also important that you keep the main display fallow for 8 weeks before re-introducing your fish to give the ich parasite ample time to completely die out in the main display.

 

[MrTuskfish]

Sorry, I really can't follow everything on this thread. here are a few random comments on parts I think I do understand.
1. Tank-transfer is a very effective ich treatment.. Here's a good thread on the subject: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1996525
2. Although I'm a big fan of Cupramine, I'd never treat a Flame Angel with copper; they are extremely sensitive to it.
3. There are very few fish that can't tolerate hypo. However, hypo is challenging for the hobbyist; there is no room for error.
4. Copper, only kills ich in the free-swimming (theront) stage. this is true of all 3 methods of Ich treatments that are effective.(IME&IMO)
5. The OP needs a decent HT/QT for long-term success and enjoyment of this hobby. You could easily get one for the price of your new flame angel. (Try Craig's list).

 

[antbreon]

i am new here but been keeping fish of one sort or another for 25 years or so....just been out of the learning stage for about 10 years..things have changed a little ..the whole transfer method is new..to me ...my tank has been sitting over there basically neglected ..but basically happy for what i had in it....my gf really likes the fish ..so i threw a few in and it got me ..i am in the process of closing off my screen porch building in a 90 gal in the wall ..going to be a reef ..deviding the living room and the new fish /computer room ...but she really like the fish so ..need to start out on the right foot..prefferably the left one too...LOl and follow the rules..

2.5 gal thing isnt as much about cost as space ..i love the hobbie but dont want people or myself to feel as they are walking into a lab or fish store when they walk in my house. i like to keep small reef fish in my tank chromis fire fish cardinals hawk fish gobies blennies ect. so a 2.5 with some pvc should be ok for there short jail term....if the fish is larger i agree i would need a larger qt

i posted this on another thread. i thought it was relavant to the topic being discussed...but this is my thought i appreciate the comments...above this may also clarify my first post a little

my thought says a normal qt..you stick them in to find out 3 to 5 weeks weeks later you have a problem..then start treatment...

i would think with my logical thought process..like the addage and ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure..says it would be better to take steps to eliminate any unseen parisites if it is on the fish when you get it ..before you put them in a qt rather than just let it go until they multiply to the point you see a problem

the parasite "ich" could stay on the fish for 7 days..then 28 days in the sand reproducing..then 2 days to attack..that is 38 days..add 2- 3 more before they are big enough on the fish for you to see..so 40 days before you even knew you had an issue now you get to start treatment..and if you wernt paitent it is now in you display tank..

seems to me it makes sence that if everytime you got a new fish .. if you do the transfer method first for about a 2 weeks or every 3 days for 4 transfers..then do a normal qt.for an additional 3-5 weeks ..whatever you believe in....the tranfer method cant hurt for water quality either i would think another tranfer mid point of the remaining qt would keep water quality up and help relieve the stress on the fish overall......i dont really understand the every transfer every 3 days thing.. if the parisite can stay on the fish for 7 days ..then it is 28 more before it can attack again would seem to me that as long as you transfered before they can reproduce it would work...but follow the recipie / rules and things usually work out... if someone has thought on this i would like to hear /read them ..

i would think transfer tank dont have to be a elaborite...they can be a rubber maid containter smaller with just an air stone....the sides not being clear would help make the fish feel safer and have less stress.. new fish have a tendancy to run and hide everytime you walk up to the tank.. there recent expieriences with people haven worked outwell for them well... they havent figured out you are the food truck yet
...

just my thoughts ..i would appreciate any input