Ich?

MatthewDino

New member
I'm not sure if this is ich. It doesn't look like it. The white spots are raised instead of flat against the skin and there's a biofilm looking substance on it. Non of the other fish have any on them.
 

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i have old eyes too but from the pics it looks like lympho virus rather than ich, it could also be bacterial infection. ich is salt like sprinkle on the body of the fish whihc this fish does not look like.
 
i have old eyes too but from the pics it looks like lympho virus rather than ich, it could also be bacterial infection. ich is salt like sprinkle on the body of the fish whihc this fish does not look like.
I have microbe-lift for bacterial and fungal infections do you think that would remedy it or help?
 
I'm not sure if this is ich. It doesn't look like it. The white spots are raised instead of flat against the skin and there's a biofilm looking substance on it. Non of the other fish have any on them.
It is hard to tell for sure. The photo isn't clear. If you can, take a long (1+ minute) video of the fish, showing both sides of the fish, under white light.

Lymphocystis is caused by infection with an iridovirus known as Lymphocystivirus or Lymphocystis disease virus (LCDV), which is a member of the family Iridoviridae.. When it expresses, it is usually one to a few nodules that sometimes look like cauliflower. It would be unusual to see so many nodules of Lymph on a fish. If it is Lymph, then the only 'cure' is to remove all stressors from the fish. This means, provide top quality water, remove tankmates that bother the fish, and provide foods as noted in the Fish Nutrition post, and I would recommend, feeding supplements as noted for an ill fish in that nutrition post.

Lymph is like the common human cold virus -- always around, just waiting for the opportunity to express. A freshwater dip won't help a fish with Lymph. The virus will spread to other fishes, but if they are not stressed, it may not express.

If this is Cryptocaryon irritans (Marine Ich), then the fish needs a freshwater dip to give it some relief. The dip doesn't cure, it just helps. Then you want to do a 14-Day Copper Treatment using two tanks, or a 30-day treatment in one tank. If it is Marine Ich, the tank is infected.

With a video and more background information (how long have you had this fish, where did you get the fish from, was the fish in quarantine, what other fish are in the display tank, size of display tank, etc.) I might be able to help more.
 
It is hard to tell for sure. The photo isn't clear. If you can, take a long (1+ minute) video of the fish, showing both sides of the fish, under white light.

Lymphocystis is caused by infection with an iridovirus known as Lymphocystivirus or Lymphocystis disease virus (LCDV), which is a member of the family Iridoviridae.. When it expresses, it is usually one to a few nodules that sometimes look like cauliflower. It would be unusual to see so many nodules of Lymph on a fish. If it is Lymph, then the only 'cure' is to remove all stressors from the fish. This means, provide top quality water, remove tankmates that bother the fish, and provide foods as noted in the Fish Nutrition post, and I would recommend, feeding supplements as noted for an ill fish in that nutrition post.

Lymph is like the common human cold virus -- always around, just waiting for the opportunity to express. A freshwater dip won't help a fish with Lymph. The virus will spread to other fishes, but if they are not stressed, it may not express.

If this is Cryptocaryon irritans (Marine Ich), then the fish needs a freshwater dip to give it some relief. The dip doesn't cure, it just helps. Then you want to do a 14-Day Copper Treatment using two tanks, or a 30-day treatment in one tank. If it is Marine Ich, the tank is infected.

With a video and more background information (how long have you had this fish, where did you get the fish from, was the fish in quarantine, what other fish are in the display tank, size of display tank, etc.) I might be able to help more.
It won't allowed me to post a video would you be comfortable with me emailing the video to you or is there a different way to post a video on here?

it's a 30 gallon setup that's been going for about 6 months now. The neon goby I've had for about 10 months he was my first saltwater fish besides my blue legged hermits. He was not put into quarantine because he was the first one in this tank at about the month mark of it running.

The other fish I have in the system

A pair of maroon clowns- about 8 months

6 blue legged hermits- 10 months

A damsel -3 months

3 Emerald crabs -3 months

Kenya tree frag, devils finger frag, toadstool frag - 3 months

4 Turbo snails- about a month

1 BTA- a month

I got them all from petco, but I'm the aquatic specialist there so I sold them to myself. None of the other fish I have are showing any signs of this illness only the neon goby.

My parameters are as of yesterday:

Nitrates -10 ppm
Nitrites - 0
PH - 8.4
phosphate - less than 1ppm
Salinity - 1.024
Ammonia - 0
 
Thank you for the additional information. Also, thank you for the video. All were helpful. Under the current circumstances it does appear to be Lymph. Nothing to do but to remove stressors (see my post #9).

That is a small aquarium for a pair of Maroon Clownfishes. I didn't understand the bit about having this aquarium for 6 months, but having had the Goby for 10 months. Other than this, feed the fishes properly. (y)
 
Thank you for the additional information. Also, thank you for the video. All were helpful. Under the current circumstances it does appear to be Lymph. Nothing to do but to remove stressors (see my post #9).

That is a small aquarium for a pair of Maroon Clownfishes. I didn't understand the bit about having this aquarium for 6 months, but having had the Goby for 10 months. Other than this, feed the fishes

I feed brine shrimp, mysis, and seaweed 2 days a week and I feed omega one marine flakes once a week. Am I missing any nutrition that the goby would need?

And I have 2 saltwater tanks both 30 gallons the other tank I've had for almost a year but I planned on putting hiatians in that one so I removed him as soon as the other tank was ready.

And what size would you recommend for a pair of maroons?
 
Regarding feeding, please read through the Fish Nutrition post. (Click on the link). You'll learn three things:
1. Adult Brine Shrimp are low in nutrition. Don't feed your fish this unless the fish is constipated;
2. Pellets are to be avoided; and
3. Flakes should not be fed.

Reasons are given in the post. (Oils (needed by the fish) go stale in pellets or are harmed when flakes are made. Both use land foods for binding.. Buy and feed frozen and/or freeze-dried foods. Add supplements to the foods -- also explained in the post. The Neon Goby (Elacatinus oceanops) [or perhaps you have one of the other species in the Elacatinus Genus] is primarily a carnivore, though will eat most aquarium foods so long as the food is small enough for them to eat.

The Maroon Clownfish (Premnas biaculeatus) may reach up to 6 inches. Imagine having a female of 6 inches and a male of about 3 inches when grown. They are omnivores. I believe they are one of the most attractive of the Clownfishes. Also, they are usually the most belligerent/aggressive of the Clownfishes. When older, the female of a mated pair is usually even more aggressive than if kept alone. I would suggest having only one in a 30 gallon tank. A mated pair should have at least a 50 gallon aquarium, IMO. A 55 gallon is better, although I think they would be a stunning addition to a 60 gallon or larger aquarium.

Did you buy a mated pair or did you just buy two hoping they would mate? I ask because these Clownfish can sometimes be picky about choosing a mate. Having two won't guarantee a mating. Are they wild caught or tank-bred?
 
Regarding feeding, please read through the Fish Nutrition post. (Click on the link). You'll learn three things:
1. Adult Brine Shrimp are low in nutrition. Don't feed your fish this unless the fish is constipated;
2. Pellets are to be avoided; and
3. Flakes should not be fed.

Reasons are given in the post. (Oils (needed by the fish) go stale in pellets or are harmed when flakes are made. Both use land foods for binding.. Buy and feed frozen and/or freeze-dried foods. Add supplements to the foods -- also explained in the post. The Neon Goby (Elacatinus oceanops) [or perhaps you have one of the other species in the Elacatinus Genus] is primarily a carnivore, though will eat most aquarium foods so long as the food is small enough for them to eat.

The Maroon Clownfish (Premnas biaculeatus) may reach up to 6 inches. Imagine having a female of 6 inches and a male of about 3 inches when grown. They are omnivores. I believe they are one of the most attractive of the Clownfishes. Also, they are usually the most belligerent/aggressive of the Clownfishes. When older, the female of a mated pair is usually even more aggressive than if kept alone. I would suggest having only one in a 30 gallon tank. A mated pair should have at least a 50 gallon aquarium, IMO. A 55 gallon is better, although I think they would be a stunning addition to a 60 gallon or larger aquarium.

Did you buy a mated pair or did you just buy two hoping they would mate? I ask because these Clownfish can sometimes be picky about choosing a mate. Having two won't guarantee a mating. Are they wild caught or tank-bred?
They were brought in by a customer who didn't want them anymore and they stayed in the system together they didn't any info on them just that they were a bonded pair. The female is about 3 inches and the male is about an inch and a half but I will most definitely be upgrading them knowing now how big she gets. Thank you so much for all the helpful info. I want to give them the best possible life.
 
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