Idea about algae

garzaci

Member
I have started letting hair algae grow in my display tank. I don't have a sump or refuge and I don't want macro floating all over my tank so I figured I could get the same benefit out of hair algae. I'm hoping to be able to limit the growth to the sand bed and at the same time achieve a more natural appearance. Also, I'm thinking that the algae could provide further protection for pods and other critters in the sand bed.

Has anybody tried this and does anybody know of any downsides. Other than losing the battle and getting completely overrun with algae.
 
i have algae growing in my display and it is really hard to keep off the rocks i have a great brush for scrubbing it off but 2 days later its back very frustrating but yes it can be beneficial i believe..
 
I'm thinking if I continue letting it grow on the substrate then hopefully I won't have enough nutrients for it to grow anywhere else
 
I'm hoping to be able to limit the growth to the sand bed

I can't imagine how you are going to be able to do that without an enormous amount of manual labor.

I like the idea, though, and the corals listed in your signature don't seem like the worst bunch of corals to subject to algae experimentation (edit: other than perhaps the candy cane, which I can imagine getting algae inbetween the 'arms' of the skeleton and then causing polyp recession). Goniopora even are reported to do best in systems with heavy HA growth (algal turf scrubbers).

Good luck, and keep us posted with pics if possible.
 
I do everything I can to keep algea out of my tank. I added an Algae Scrubber to my system and I have zero algae in my 180 gal reef (except for a limited bubble algae). You can see Algea Scrubbers here: http://algaescrubber.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=26&sid=bc2b5006ad156282bafe8a051daceee2

Have you considered adding a hang on refug to the back of your tank or pumb one under the aquarium in the stand (if you have room)? You can then use a good macro algae like Chato and lots of little critters will grow to help feed fish.
 
I am aware of making a refuge but I was curios if this would work. I tried putting a 10 gallon underneath but it wouldn't fit. Could I get away with just putting a 5 gallon bucket w/some chaeto in it?
 
I am aware of making a refuge but I was curios if this would work. I tried putting a 10 gallon underneath but it wouldn't fit. Could I get away with just putting a 5 gallon bucket w/some chaeto in it?

Yes, but you'd have to drill the tank or use an overflow box to drain water down to the bucket. The bucket would need enough empty space in it to hold the water that would accumulate in the event the return pump fails -- I'm guessing at least 2 gallons on a 20H, maybe 3 gallons. HOB fuges (like the ones from CPR) are pretty slick, and I'll bet a used one costs about as much as a new over-the-back overflow box.
 
You could also always fashion an overflow out of pvc if you are worried about costs.

BUT FWIW I think you could get away with the hair algae deal. I do agree that it would be a PITA to keep it isolated though. But who knows, maybe you will develop some tricks to share? :)
 
If you try to keep a balance within your tank, keeping a place for hair algae to grow, be ready to remove it if it starts growing everywhere. I've seen many tanks overrun by hair algae and their owners are always upset by it's presence, except for one friend of mine whose tank is completely covered with a green hairy carpet and the fern like caulapera. His tank is still a beautiful sight, but it's no reef tank.

To remove it I wouldn't try ripping it out, that just makes it spread. If it starts to get out of control, I would recommend adding a foxface to the tank (you may need to remove the fish after it's done it's work, since your tank is 20 gallons?) and feed your fish sparingly. When I did this, after about 1.5 weeks all the hair algae was gone-from a tank covered in the algae.
 
Do you have a place to set the 10 gal refuge above your tank? Best place for it, for two reasons. (1) don't have to worry about it overflowing because you pump water up to it and it gravity drains back into your tank. (2) The little critters and pods flow down into your tank and don't have to go through a pump.

I have a friend who has a 75 gal tank with a 5 gal refuge setting above it. Works great and has plenty of pods to feed his Mandrine.
 
I'm going to have to look at all options. I'm also looking around to see if I can find some kind of seagrass or something to plant. I think it would look pretty nice. Thanks for the advice from everyone.
 
It would almost take daily maintenance if you were going to culture HA to use like you would a fuge. My guess is you would eventually get lazy, stop wanting to do the work and your tank would be overrun with algae. I could be wrong, but I personally think it makes more sense to take steps to keeping the HA out of the display long term that the opposite. There are multiple ways to achieve PO4 and NO3 removal while maintaining a pristine, algae free aquarium.
 
Well, I'm a little into my experiment and I don't think this is going to work. Lol. I'm not overrun with HA at all though. It seems the HA produces this thing called oxygen and the bubbles are everywhere in my tank. It goes away when the lights are out of course, but its pretty hard to enjoy my tank then. So an unforseen problem has ended my experiment. I don't think the bubbles are hurting anything, but they just bother me. I guess my water is pretty oxygenated though. Does anybody know anything about planting some seagrasses or something like that? Maybe some seaplants.
 
I have macro, bubble, and hair on my 55 with some BTA. I have to pull stuff every week. The tank became like that after a few years of overfeeding. I haven't overfeed in over 1 year and there are only 2 little fishes but nothing is stopping the growth of all the plants.
 
I've pretty much gotten most of the algae out now. I have a little lingering here and there, but most was taken care of in about 30 minutes. I just manually removed as much as I could. After that I cleaned out my filter. Then did a water change.
 
Hair algae can be an excellent way of removing nutrients, however it is almost guaranteed to get out of control in a display tank unless you have enough fish, crabs, snails and/or slugs to keep it under control.

Hair algae is actually pretty easy to get rid of. Plucking hair algae does not work very well. It tends to send little bits everywhere, so now it starts growing on more and more areas. You need to eliminate the food source! If you have hair or other nuisance algae you have to high nitrates and/or phosphates. Even if your test kit says you don't! The reason your test kit thinks you don't is the algae is taking the excess nutrients up and using it as food. If you do not eliminate the food source, you may get rid of one algae only to have another worse one pop up in its place.

Most tanks with canister filter tend to have hair algae. Canister filters work great for removing detritus and crap from the water column. The problem is it is still all in the system. All the stuff the filter catches immediately starts to break down into Nitrate and Phosphate. The longer it sits there the more of both you get. Simple solutions: clean the canister filter every 3-4 days (way too much work for me), use it for carbon and GFO only or get rid of it. This also applies to filter socks, filter foam or filter pads. If they are not cleaned at least weekly, I think your better off without them. If you have detectable Nitrated or Phosphates, it is easy to measure the change, just by cleaning your filter media every 3 days. If you do that for a month, I think you will find both measurably lower.

The next thing you need to do is use a small power head or turkey baster to blow off the rock work during water changes.

Increase your magnesium levels to 1300-1400. Most algae do not do well at high magnesium levels. This is easier for most people(Me included, I like fish!) then getting the nutrient levels down to where they really should be.
 
I already had low nutrient levels, but purposely fed a little more for the experiment. As soon as I realized feedings when back to normal and maintenance was stepped back up.
 
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