Idea for Faux sand bed. Envirotex Lite high gloss finish.

Yes that is the idea behind doing this on starboard. However, I didn't have starboard and the plastic was not cut to spec (I don't have many precision tools for that kind of thing). So for me I just needed a surface to pour it on to that would let me flow around space for the overflows, etc. I used an old tray from a dog crate just because I had it. I wish I had another piece of glass to do it on.
 
That will work fine. THis is a really easy project and I way overthought it. You could glue anything to it, including crushed coral, any kind of reef-safe sand, rocks... anything really.
 
You might want to get all of your questions in one post so we don't flood this thread. You only need dry sand for the sprinkling part. I didn't dry it I just sifted it with a fruit collander (the misses didn't see :D). In retrospect I would have laid it out in an oven and dried it on a cookie sheet first (just the last bit of sand to sprinkle on top). Maybe a microwave would work? I don't know.
 
Any rule of thumb for the curing time on these epoxys before introducing the epoxy covered plastic to the display tank? Maybe it might be good to cure in water for a day or tow before????
 
Yeah...but the real question is :

Is it safe LONG term to use in a reef tank?
Does anyone have any long term results?
 
This thread is AWESOME! Thanks to you guys, I completed my faux sand bed for my 90g, and just wanted to repay with some photos.

I purchased 2 24"x18" white cutting boards from www.usplastics.com and then cut them to shape using a jigsaw. I used duct tape around the edge to contain the epoxy, and I am quite excited with how it came out. Photos below:

08-cuttingboard.jpg

08c-cuttingboard.jpg

09b-fauxsand.jpg

19-first-shot.jpg



This last one is linked because it is an up-close detail shot of the sand: http://www.d3f.org/misc/fish/90g/21-faux-sand.jpg

My tank's progress is also being documented here: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=640331
 
Any suggestions for making hills and valleys to replicate real sand? Is there any point in the curing process where the epoxy/sand becomes moldable by hand? I want to use this approach instead of a BB in a 220. I plan on having 2 reefs seperated by an open sand section and dont want just flat sand. I guess the only limit is the imagination of the one making it right?
 
I'm sure you could try it.. instead of pouring right away, just keep mixing for 10-15 minutes. It says you have 20 minutes after mixing the two chemicals, so i'd assume that around that point it becomes thicker and more difficult to mold.

Also, you could try placing inverted bowls underneath it, and letting the epoxy sit on that, or other objects to create shapes.

Once you mix the sand in, it becomes very thick and you could probably make just about anything with it in any shape.. if it's too wet, just add more sand.
 
I used dry aragonite sand.. the kind found in the Arag-Alive! packages... but the dry version. I liked how it looked in my old tank.

I got 30 lbs (way too much for my tank.. I probably used 10-15lbs). Placed it in a 5g bucket, and rinsed it with a strong pressured hose for like 10-15 minutes. I turned it and turned it and turned it making sure to clear all the dust. Finally, I drained it, and thinly spread it out on many garbage bags to sit outside on the concrete, under the sun. A solid days worth of north-central florida summer-sun dried it. I tried things such as letting it dry indoors under an AC vent -- no good. Also tried a blow drier... that was futile.
 
if you did this and also added loose sand on top would it allow for the benifits of a loose sand base but achived with only a very small amount - lots of bare patches but they wouldnt show up. Would coraline grow on it so easily with a thin amount of sand loose down there?
 
I really wish I could do this, it would solve so many problems for me. But I really dont think I could take everything outa my 90 gal.
 
anyone have the details of the shrink factor of the epoxy?

we dont use acrylic and glass cause they expand at different rates. no doubt this does too; and would stress the joints.

I guess the question is; how do you get a solid slab that isnt connected to the glass? cant fit it in because of bracing.

what if you layered the bottom with wax paper or that new non stick aluminum foil. made your bottom; and then picked it up with the paper; peeled it away; all while its in the tank; then lay it back down. now the 2 are free to expand and contract seperately vs stressing each other.

or how about a flexable bottom? are their any clear silicone resins?
 
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