stlouisguy
Registered Member
what would it be?
If you could buy one item for a new tank to make your life easier and the tank better
- Thread starter stlouisguy
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stlouisguy
Registered Member
and just like that, another thread takes a turn to the dark side.........
I would not...too many problems with gadgetry...I think keeping it simple with timers and fail-proof top-off systems is best.
I think I would make a system for making water changes a breeze with turnkey faucets and drains. The easier it is to do water changes, the better the chance of them getting done...also, be sure to have the room to do a proper size water change easily.
stlouisguy
Registered Member
Ease of water change is one of the big things I am dealing with right now. I plan to have an 80 gallon trash can on the stand next to my skimmer with it plumbed into my skimmer return so I can just turn the wheel and it will empty into the tank, just havent figured out where I am going to take the water out of the tank. Thinking maybe a T off of the return line or just a drop in pump to the tank. Either way I am going to have another 80 gallon can on wheels that I can fill to keep the amounts changed out even, then I will take the can of old water on wheels to the nearest drain and empty.
Im Lon 2
Premium Member
The only 2 problems I had with the last tank was Not having a good way to control humidity, and an easy way to do water changes like Dave said.
Now I will have 2 Ball valves so all I have to do is Open and close 2 different valves So I should be able to do a 50gal water change with in 15 min's depending how fast the 55gal will drain 50gallons back to the sump through a 1" bulkhead.
Humidity was a real problem having my tank in the basement and not having a good cold air return down there. I had tools starting to rust on the other side of my finished basement. Now with the tank up stairs I think that will help control pulling the humidity into the cold air return.
And if I was you I would not over look the humidity issue. I didn't realize how much of a problem that was going to cause..
Now I will have 2 Ball valves so all I have to do is Open and close 2 different valves So I should be able to do a 50gal water change with in 15 min's depending how fast the 55gal will drain 50gallons back to the sump through a 1" bulkhead.
Humidity was a real problem having my tank in the basement and not having a good cold air return down there. I had tools starting to rust on the other side of my finished basement. Now with the tank up stairs I think that will help control pulling the humidity into the cold air return.
And if I was you I would not over look the humidity issue. I didn't realize how much of a problem that was going to cause..
FWIW, there is no "magic one item" that will make it all wonderful...it is a large puzzle that if pieced together with forethought and effort, the end result will be that much better.
I would concentrate on every detail of the room, the electric, the humidity, the cooling, the heating, the controlling of all the above, etc on a LARGE tank like this. You are in for some very different challenges compared to the bowfront on this one.
I can not emphasize enough the importance of water changes adn the ability to do "large" water changes if necessary. Build redundancy into your circulation, have back-up pumps, skimmer, heaters, bulbs, etc...get a generator if you don't already have one.
A large calcium reactor will be a must for the stony corals in that water volume...that might be my main concern after the design of the system...also, a kalk reactor is great for auto-topoff and precipitating phosphates, maintaining pH, etc. But I would have some serious fail-safes on these items.
Just the rants of an empty tank reefer though
I would concentrate on every detail of the room, the electric, the humidity, the cooling, the heating, the controlling of all the above, etc on a LARGE tank like this. You are in for some very different challenges compared to the bowfront on this one.
I can not emphasize enough the importance of water changes adn the ability to do "large" water changes if necessary. Build redundancy into your circulation, have back-up pumps, skimmer, heaters, bulbs, etc...get a generator if you don't already have one.
A large calcium reactor will be a must for the stony corals in that water volume...that might be my main concern after the design of the system...also, a kalk reactor is great for auto-topoff and precipitating phosphates, maintaining pH, etc. But I would have some serious fail-safes on these items.
Just the rants of an empty tank reefer though
stlouisguy
Registered Member
Dave, thats exactly the type of input I am looking for. I cannot plan for something unless I know of a possible pitfall.
When I get my electric upgraded I am going to put in a place where I can hook up my generator directly to run those ciruits so I can leave instructions in case I am out of town.
I am putting in 6" pipes in and out of the room to the outside. This is the system I will use in the fall, winter and spring. In the summer I am tapping into two air conditioner ducts for the cold air in but not sure how I will get the hot humid air out during the summer. Cant afford a seperate air unit for the room so will experiement for the first year.
Im not looking for a magic item for the tank, but every now and then the equipment junkies on here find that item that adds a little "something" that maybe I dont know about, hence the question, what out there is good.
I am looking at calcium reactors but havent come to a conclusion yet as its another big investment. Input is welcome on this also.
Kalk reactors I dont know a thing about.
Would welcome you Dave to stop by and give me your input. I do have beer and wings. . . .
When I get my electric upgraded I am going to put in a place where I can hook up my generator directly to run those ciruits so I can leave instructions in case I am out of town.
I am putting in 6" pipes in and out of the room to the outside. This is the system I will use in the fall, winter and spring. In the summer I am tapping into two air conditioner ducts for the cold air in but not sure how I will get the hot humid air out during the summer. Cant afford a seperate air unit for the room so will experiement for the first year.
Im not looking for a magic item for the tank, but every now and then the equipment junkies on here find that item that adds a little "something" that maybe I dont know about, hence the question, what out there is good.
I am looking at calcium reactors but havent come to a conclusion yet as its another big investment. Input is welcome on this also.
Kalk reactors I dont know a thing about.
Would welcome you Dave to stop by and give me your input. I do have beer and wings. . . .
Arsenal11
New member
Clark, I would say humidity is going to be your biggest problem with the current location of your tank, can you get access to a sep. heat cool unit for that room? That was the big reason i put my 375 where i did so that i had acess to a basement window for a a/c unit 2 cool the room & pull out the humidity.
Fade
New member
Sorry Clark just playing around. A place to hold enough water for a large change is hard to come buy I could make up about 200 gallons in a pinch but that is it if I ran into a big problem I would be s out of luck. I think I will have a humidity problem this winter so I would look at that first and forth most.
stlouisguy
Registered Member
Anythign is possible but I dont have 2-3 grand to drop on that right now.
Was thinking of a large dehumidifier as part of the problem solver. Yea I know the heat will be a problem, and I think I can keep the room cooled, just getting the humidity out is the problem
I may be able to access an air return but I havent climped up and checked it out yet in the space above the bathroom next to the room. Like I said, the first year will be interesting
Was thinking of a large dehumidifier as part of the problem solver. Yea I know the heat will be a problem, and I think I can keep the room cooled, just getting the humidity out is the problem
I may be able to access an air return but I havent climped up and checked it out yet in the space above the bathroom next to the room. Like I said, the first year will be interesting
stlouisguy
Registered Member
I wonder if I could put a small window unit in the room, and somehow vent the air to the outside through 6" pvc piping.
A peristaltic pump - you have to top-off anyway, so why not use something that has the lowest probability of flooding the tank (set the rate to a drip that exactly matches your tank's evaporation) and you can even get models that also have a cut-off circuit that can be connected to a float switch as an extra layer of protection against flooding.
While you're at it - run it through a kalk reactor (pumping fresh water, rather than saturated Kalkwasser - that will help the tubes last longer). That way you have a calcium/alkalinity supplement, and automatic (virtually foolproof) top-off method all in one.
While you're at it - run it through a kalk reactor (pumping fresh water, rather than saturated Kalkwasser - that will help the tubes last longer). That way you have a calcium/alkalinity supplement, and automatic (virtually foolproof) top-off method all in one.
I do very easy water changes.
My saltwater mixing tub is on a stand higher than the sump. I fill the tub with filtered water (thru float valve from filter system), add salt, mix, aerate overnight. The tub has a tiny bulkhead to ball valve to tubing to the sump. The sump has an overflow to a ball valve that drains to the floor drain. I flip two valves, and the cooler water runs from my tub to the bottom of the sump, raising the water level. Surface scum in the sump goes down the overflow and out of the house. No lifting heavy buckets. Hardest part is dissolving salt. Nah, hardest part is paying for salt...
My saltwater mixing tub is on a stand higher than the sump. I fill the tub with filtered water (thru float valve from filter system), add salt, mix, aerate overnight. The tub has a tiny bulkhead to ball valve to tubing to the sump. The sump has an overflow to a ball valve that drains to the floor drain. I flip two valves, and the cooler water runs from my tub to the bottom of the sump, raising the water level. Surface scum in the sump goes down the overflow and out of the house. No lifting heavy buckets. Hardest part is dissolving salt. Nah, hardest part is paying for salt...
