ummmm, Chris.........that is straight out of the box.....45 minute drip acclimation/iodine+FWE.....in the tank....then snapped a pic about 15 minutes later. Today they are super fat and happy!
That tank is a 46G bow....which I imagine is going to Be more of a micro tank (thanks A LOT Chris.....where's that roll your eyes smiley? :-D ). It was going to be my LPS tank, but there are more micromussa now than anything else......maybe I'll put more chalices in there also.
the lighting is 6X39W T5's four are on 54W ballasts
from front to back.......actinic PLUS, 10k, actinic PLUS, actinic, 12K, actinic......had to go look! :-D
the actinic and actinic plus are overdriven.
that tank is very picture friendly outside of a little warping from the bowed front.
My mixed reef display is so friggin hard to take pictures in! (you can see a huge difference in these pictures compared the ones in my 270G system
here's some others that I got from chris (in my big tank) this was fresh out of shipping also.....plus the colors are still morphing on these. I'll post pictures when they finish coloring up. I'll probably move them to the bedroom tank (46G)
I'm not sure if these have names as the coloration isn't stable yet.
again....about 1 hour out of the box from shipping....and after trimming the rocks thinner. this is under 3x400W 12K reeflux + 2x6' VHO super actinic
some were close to 3" thick, and I plan to cut a square out of the rocks that they will go into.....kind of countersinking the mini colonies so that they will grow out nice and flat.
I've noticed that if I butt the clean cut edge of the frag up to another rock, level with the skeleton, that they begin to spread out almost immediately after healing.....it takes much longer for them to grow down the frag and then on to the plug. Then, if there is a little crack or crevice between the rock and the plug(or skeleton base), it takes forever for the coral to bridge the gap. PLUS....when they do grow out, they look sooooo much more natural! the whole grown out colony winds up being in the same shape of the rock instead of having that tell tale bump where the frag was initially placed.
A router works best......but if you have a rock only about 3" thick, I've learned that you can cut a "u" shape out of the rock in a snap with the Inland DB-100 !
that holds true with acans also. When I decide where I'm going to put these guys, I'll break a couple frags and counter sink one, and put the other on a plug and epoxy it to a rock. Then I'll take snaps every couple weeks and pot the pictures so you guys can see the difference!