I'm Getting EVEN CLOSER! she's a Flowin'

So far so good. Do the pipes on the outer front of the tank have valves to control flow in case the last opening gets more flow? Also, I wasn't too sure about the part where the mag and other pump is set up. care to elaborate? not sure, but it looks like the inlet is used as the outlet, its confusing to me. lol

BTW nice to meet you.
 
DSCN1323.jpg
 
Hi Eric, it was also a pleasure to meet you as well Thanks for the Loc-lines

DSCN1327.jpg
if this is what you are refering to? the 2 returns in the front are from the sump approx 700 gph. the 2 in the back are the close loop returns 1 on the left and 1 on the right each have 2 outlets that are on a SCWD on the panworld 1270 gph. i have not run the pipe for the mag 950 gph yet that will will have the returns running under the sand with 2 outlets 1 on each side of the middle of the tank. so after all been said there will always be ONLY 2 outlets letting water back in the tank for each pump thus me not having to control the flow at any point coming out

as you see in the above pic from Manny and below (i was at his house and he showed me how to post a pic Thanks Manny he does not like to click on links :D ) the MAG and PANWORLD both draw water from the same intake for the CL from the center of the overflow 6" below the waterline

DSCN1325.jpg


DSCN1326.jpg


HOWEVER the returns are seperate, the mag ONLY pumps water back to the tank through the bulkhead at the bottom and the panworld only pumps water back via the SCWD at the top of the tank. the ball vales you see between the tank and the only check valve on the return line from the mag is so i can drain water using the mag only. when i want to do a water change i can drain approx 20% by closing the ball valve that returns to the tank and opening the valve that goes to the hose that i would attach on the side (the one that comes out in the BELOW pic over the yellow pump) if i want to drain all the water out of my tank i can do so by turning off the mag pump, opening both valves between the check valve and the tank and let gravity do the rest. if you thought you were confused you should have seen the look on my face when i tried to figure it out in my head. so if you are still confused and anyone else is i am sorry for not explaing it well enough i really tried and you are welcome to come over and see it anytime you like :D . Thanks to all for looking

i hope i posted the pics correctly
 
It's a little late now but I would have suggested using unions and valves for all connections to pumps. Pumps need to come offline for occasional maintenance. Looks like you are going to have a tough time doing that.
 
YUP you are correct coralfragger, i will be one day soon make modifications for now it will serve it purpose. would you mind sening me a a link to what you are talking about? the ones i have seen i am not too impressed with and not sure how well they would last

Thanks
 
You said that both pumps are using the same inlet. I'm guessing that is the clear strainer. Although those strainers do a good job at keeping critters out, they do not diffuse the water entering very well. You will find that you have a very high rate of suction right at the edge and nothing to speak of at the far end of the strainer. The amount of suction could be a problem, especially running two pumps off of it. You might want to put a T with two basket strainers just to lessen the suction effect.
 
Here is a photo of my CL system. If you want heavy duty then True Union Ball Valves are the way to go. It's both a union and a valve. The same can be accomplished with using just a union and then one of those red handled Home Depot valves but those things stick and can get to be a pain in the butt.

Note: All I have to do is shut the valves, twist the unions and the entire pump comes right out.

4-Way_Plumb_Final_2.jpg
 
actually its not that bad honestly, i was worried about the same thing but i found that is not that much to worry about i do however have a back up plan should i ever find something stuck or sucked in, i would drill small holes towards the bottom of the elbow the help further difuse the water intake and or an anacrylic box with slots or holes that would encase the whole bottom half of the intake if need be
 
Here's another photo using unions / valves. Put the valves as close to the pump as you can. This way, when you unscrew the union to pull the pump the least amount of water will drain. This is set up on my salt mixing station.

Union-Valves.jpg
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10113946#post10113946 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by coralfragger101
Here is a photo of my CL system. If you want heavy duty then True Union Ball Valves are the way to go. It's both a union and a valve. The same can be accomplished with using just a union and then one of those red handled Home Depot valves but those things stick and can get to be a pain in the butt.

Note: All I have to do is shut the valves, twist the unions and the entire pump comes right out.

4-Way_Plumb_Final_2.jpg
Click to expand...

Nice set up! Thanks for the idea, if I ever start a bigger tank I will use this type of set up.
 
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