I'm getting shocked, running out of solutions

You know, something else occurred to me, just as I was starting this thread. Allow me to give you a rundown of the history

The following issues are coming from my salt water mixing bin....

A few weeks ago, I was doing a water change, like normal. I'd pump the water out of my water bin, in to the display tank. During this process, I will usually do a little housekeeping and tinker while it's filling. THis time, while doing so, I stuck my hands in the water and was shocked immediately. scared the you know what out of me. Never been shocked before. That shock obviously tripped the GFI outlet and breaker. After doing some troubleshooting, the issue was coming from the return pump in the salt bin, that I used to pump the water to the display tank. That was the only thing running in that bin at the time, so it was rather easy to diagnose. After that happened, I removed the pump, and placed in a back up pump that I have on reserve for the display tank. Placed that in the bin, continued the filling up process, and had zero issues. So in my mind......faulty pump.

couple weeks after that (last weekend), I was filling up the salt bin with water, and checking salinity to bring it up to level, for the upcoming water change. While messing with this bin, I got a tingling shock, very small, once again. I unplugged the heater, and was still getting shocked. I proceeded to unplug the powerhead and the shock went away. Plugged the heater back in, and nothing. Plugged the powerhead back in and got shocked. So I figured the powerhead went bad. Swapped it out for another one, and looked like we were back in business. no shocks, went on my marry way.

today, was doing a small water change in my QT tank, from this same salt bin. I was filling a 5 gallon bucket with water, that I use to pour in to the QT. I touched the on/off valve that had water coming from it, and felt another shocking tingle. ***. So my mind went right to the powerhead, that I just replaced last weekend. I unplugged both the heater and powerhead, and shock went away. plugged the heater in, nothing. plugged the powerhead in, and got a small tingle.

I have a freshwater bin, and a saltwater bin, side by side. they both have heaters and powerheads running at the same time, plugged in to a powerstrip on the wall.

I first thought, well, the powerstrip is rather old (few years), maybe that's the issue. Swapped it out for a new one (new new). After swapping it out, touched the fresh water bin, and nothing. That was good. Touched the saltwater bin, zap. so it wasnt the power strip. I put the other strip back in place. plugged everything in except the power head. no shock. plugged the power head back in, zap. so I am running powerheadless in the salt bin at the moment.

so, this is where you come in. What can possibly be happening that would cause these powerheads to become faulty? Is it the powerhead? could it be something else? I am at a loss here.

I tried to cover all details. If there are questions remaining, please ask

the DT, QT, and water bins all run from the same breaker/circuit in the panel. If that matters
 
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you just have some faulty equipment.. plain and simple..
What brand powerheads?
age?
Do you do vinegar soaks on any of them? (don't do that)
 
My system is two years old. These powerheads were purchased at the start of it. All my powerheads that I am using in these bins are Hydor Koralias, 1500's.

I have not soaked them in vinegar. Only rinsed in tap water. they are sitting on a wire shelf in a storage closet when not in use. I have 4 or 5 more in reserve. Obviously I need to swap this one out, but didn't want to in case there was something I was doing that caused these powerheads to go.

quick edit to the OP, the first shock did trip the outlet, as well as the breaker in the panel. THat was the strongest shock that I got.
 
you just have some faulty equipment.. plain and simple..
What brand powerheads?
age?
Do you do vinegar soaks on any of them? (don't do that)


This.

And FWIW - using yourself to test for a electrical short in any piece of equipment is not a whole lot different than sticking a fork straight into an outlet. Hopefully you know better than to do that!

You can get a multimeter at HD/Lowes for all of $15. GET ONE AND USE IT!!!

And throw the bad pumps in the trash.
 
If my power strip even gets accidentally damp, different devices will give the ole tingle FWIW. Even if the cord itself looks dry.
 
Everything seems to be the same outlet maybe something is wrong with the wall power supply.


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buy a meter.... black test lead goes to a ground. Red test lead stick in tank. watch the voltage on the screen...... unplug each device on by one until the voltage drop
 
I will dig my meter out tomorrow when i get home...........i have taken the old powerhead out and replaced with new. only did that cause i found the issue. but will use a meter here on out. tired of being treated like the lab rat :)
 
Huh!? There isn't much need for discussion here.

Every submerged device needs to be on a gfci. If the outlet trips, plug/unplug devices until you find the culprit, then throw out the problem
 
I will dig my meter out tomorrow when i get home...........i have taken the old powerhead out and replaced with new. only did that cause i found the issue. but will use a meter here on out. tired of being treated like the lab rat :)

Add a grounding probe to your list of protection with your GFCI. That way you are not the only grounding means for the leaking current to follow. GFCI's are built to trip before we get enough current to kill us, not keep us from getting shocked. Most are 4 to 6ma. 3 to 4ma is a pretty good shock.
The following is from Jade Learning
1 ma (.001 amps) – Perception level and slight tingle
5 ma (.005 amps) – Shock Felt but you should be able to let go
6-30 ma (.005-.03 amps) – Pain Full Shock
50-150 ma (.05-.150 amps) – Death is Possible
1000 ma (1 amp) – Death is likely
Ma = Milli-Amps
 
Huh!? There isn't much need for discussion here.

Every submerged device needs to be on a gfci. If the outlet trips, plug/unplug devices until you find the culprit, then throw out the problem

We got out breaker replaced to a GFCI for the tank. If it goes off then one by everything is unplugged and plugged in until you find the problem and replace.
 
you just have some faulty equipment.. plain and simple..
What brand powerheads?
age?
Do you do vinegar soaks on any of them? (don't do that)

What do you recommend instead of vinegar soaks? I see it used so often that I thought it was OK. Thanks.
 
What do you recommend instead of vinegar soaks? I see it used so often that I thought it was OK. Thanks.

The problem is using full strength for too long.. Vinegar can/does soften the electrical seals and thats how electrical faults happen.. seal compromised = electricity mixing with water..

Its a big reason that DC powered equipment is far safer then AC/direct line powered.. The low voltage in the tank isn't an issue but being exposed to line voltage is..

Thats why "All submerged line powered equipment must be on a GFCI"
 
troubleshooting continues and I am at a loss.

Tonight tested the water with the new pump in place. The water had a reading of 2.4volts that was still running through it. I unplugged the pump, and plugged only the heater in. That showed a voltage of 1.6 running through the water. So 4 volts combined. I was able to touch the water with no feeling of a tingle. But I still had a meter reading.

So I proceeded to place thbe meter in the DT, and then on to the QT that I have running. All individually isolated from the next. Each tank was showing a reading of around 2-4volts. But I couldn't feel anything when I touched the water.

should my readings be at 0? or is it normal to have a minimal volt reading like I am?
 
What you are measuring is totally normal..
Its just like the induced voltage when you move the probes close to a fluorescent light,etc..
They are basically antenna as you are using them.. picking up anything.. (coupled voltage from pumps magnet,etc...)

I wouldn't be concerned till about 1/2 of line voltage or more..
 
What you are measuring is totally normal..
Its just like the induced voltage when you move the probes close to a fluorescent light,etc..
They are basically antenna as you are using them.. picking up anything.. (coupled voltage from pumps magnet,etc...)

Exactly, the more submersible pumps you add, having a light without a lens or glass tops will add more stray/induced voltage to your tank. The only way to not get voltage is use external pumps, and a glass cover on your tank. If not add a grounding probe, and your voltage goes to zero.
 
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