IM Lagoon 25 Office Tank

[ReefTron5000]

I really don't want to buy a basic reef test kit so I went to the store today to have them test Ammonia and Nitrites. He used a Salifert kit for Ammonia and I think he said it was .25 or the first green block, so Ammonia is still detectable.

For Nitrite he used one of those strips which I assume are not that accurate but it registered immediately at 3 for Nitrites.

So it seems like the tank is still cycling but I'm confused why. Its been running for like 3 weeks now and I figured Ammonia and Nitrite would be undetectable. Could it be because I only have like 6 pounds of rock in there? I bought 4 more pounds today that I will toss in. I'm wondering if adding more rock will disrupt the cycle that is already happening.

 

[soulpatch]

Basic test kits are really one of those things you should have. I know you use it mostly during cycling but you need it on hand to investigate why things go downhill or such. They are on sale all the time so it is a worthwhile investment...

Adding more live rock wont disrupt the cycle but only do so if you want that in the tank. Otherwise you can up your bacteria count using things like stability, prodigibio start up, tims one and only bacteria, or others.

 

[ReefTron5000]

Yeah I might just buy the dang test kit but I gave away the last one I had because I had not touched it since setting my home tank up. I agree though it's better to have one.

I definitely want the rock in the tank. I thought I wanted a more sparse look but the tank has TOO much dead space at this point.

I guess I'm just surprised that the tank is taking this long to cycle. I didn't really want to use a product to cycle but maybe I will at this point, or is it too late to use one of those things...

 

[soulpatch]

You can ALWAYS add bacteria suppliments to a tank. They just have less purpose once your cycle is complete.

 

[lilphil26]

I used aquavitro seed. Really nice stuff

 

[ReefTron5000]

I'll consider using a bacteria supplement but in the meantime Ill keep doing like 50% water changes.

I'm trying to figure out my layout and I think I'm getting closer. The tank is pretty shallow so I feel like it lends itself to a more horizontal layout. I plan on placing like a medium size Australian torch in the dead space.

 

[soulpatch]

I'll consider using a bacteria supplement but in the meantime Ill keep doing like 50% water changes.

NO NO NO. No water changes during a cycle. Let the ammonia and nitrite drop to zero naturally without changing water. Then you dose ammonia back up to 2 ppm in the tank and see if the system can get nitrites and ammonia down to zero within 24 hours. If they can your cycle is complete and THEN you do a massive water change to clear out the nitrates.

By changing water now you are impeding the cycle. Let it go man and save yourself headaches and the salt $.

I'm trying to figure out my layout and I think I'm getting closer. The tank is pretty shallow so I feel like it lends itself to a more horizontal layout. I plan on placing like a medium size Australian torch in the dead space.

I think you need to play with the spaceing. I am not a fan of the second and third. I think this tank plays PERFECTLY for a dual island setup. Have one smaller island by the front glass and a larger one in the back on the opposite side. Perhaps get a piece of ledge rock and make a ledge off of the back rock extending a bit across the back.

Your corals will fill in gaps so dont overthink it too much. But the swimming space and being minimalist with these tanks is beautiful IMHO

 

[ReefTron5000]

NO NO NO. No water changes during a cycle.

I'm seeing conflicting information about this. Apparantely the "no water changes during a cycle" thing is a misconception. I mean I'm fine with not doing water changes and waiting it out but according to some smart sounding people across multiple threads, it doesn't impede the cycle and actually has benefits.

"Originally Posted by greenbean36191 View Post
For a given bioload there's going to be a roughly set carrying capacity for the bacteria. Whether you do a waterchange or not, you're going to end up at the same place, you just change the path you take to get there and how long it takes.

If you don't do a WC you finish the initial cycle quicker but you overshoot the carrying capacity, so the population drops, overshooting it again. You end up setting up fluctuations in the population and prolonging the time it takes for the tank to "mature" or finally settle at the carrying capacity.

If you do WCs it takes a little bit longer for the bacteria to reach the carrying capacity, but there's very little overshoot so the tank is essentially mature as soon as the cycle is done. The fact that there's less ammonia also helps to preserve diversity on the liverock.

Here's a little graph to show what's going on.

Personally, I recommend doing WCs, but either way will work."


See this thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2093085 (amongst others)


I'll probably just buy a basic test kit and play it by ear.

I think you need to play with the spaceing. I am not a fan of the second and third. I think this tank plays PERFECTLY for a dual island setup. Have one smaller island by the front glass and a larger one in the back on the opposite side. Perhaps get a piece of ledge rock and make a ledge off of the back rock extending a bit across the back.

Your corals will fill in gaps so dont overthink it too much. But the swimming space and being minimalist with these tanks is beautiful IMHO

Yeah I definitely want to have a lot of open space. I've been going through "Show me your aquascape" threads trying to get inspired but its tough man. I like the idea of two islands and might play with that a bit. I'm trying to figure out if I can glue a couple of pieces to form an interesting ledge in the back.

 

[soulpatch]

I disagree with the WC statements. The bacteria is in the rocks and sand as they mature. The water column is merely holding the food source (ammonia) for them. By removing food source you have some slight die off unless you dose back up to the level before. The dieoff feeds remaining.

That is why many of us cycle using actual ammonia. You can dose to an exact amount and let the tank cycle it through. Removing the water merely removes the food source you are trying to use to grow the bacteria.

Though I would agree that is there are items on the live rock (barnicles and such) that you do need to be aware of how high you let ammonia go and in that instance water changes are required to have them survive. Otherwise basic live rock without such items you should just let it go.

 

[ReefTron5000]

Still experimenting but I think I like the second layout better. I'll play with it tomorrow to see if I can improve on it.

Ordered a set of bulbs per a buddies recommendations, 3 Blue Plus, 1 Coral Wave. Also, Jebaos are total pieces of crap. The RW4 went out 3 days into use. Well the powerhead works but the speed adjustment went out on the super flimsy controller. I've ordered a Tunze 6015 to replace it.

 

[soulpatch]

My RW4 has been running for over a year now with only being cleaned once. But I guess that is the QC issues you get with a copycat brand.


I too like the island design much better. (I guess I have to since I suggested it ha ha) You could probably get one more large piece of rock and break it into smaller chunks to litter on the sand bed giving places for other corals to be placed OR get some corals meant more for the sand like some plate corals, brains, ect.

 

[ReefTron5000]

Had the water tested today at the LFS. Ammonia came back at 0 with a Salifert test. He tested Nitrites with a strip and that came back at 3.0. I feel like those strips aren't that accurate and I'm not sure if I trust that number. I tested Nitrates myself and it looks like under 5 ppm to me. Tank has been up about a month at this point. I'm fine with waiting longer but it is annoying to me how long this is taking.

The combination of the Tunze 6015 and the super fine sand I have is also frustrating. I figured the 6015 would be a good fit but it seems too strong. I've kind of got the flow balanced with a Koralia nano on the other side.

The temperature of the tank is a bit too high, averaging something like 81 degrees, sometimes hitting 82. The fans work but I picked up a Coolworks Iceprobe that I plan on resting upside down on the rim, over the back left chamber.

I'm also seeing diatoms so I guess things are progressing.

 

[ReefTron5000]

I'm gonna go get my water tested again tomorrow but I think they cycle is complete. Ammonia and Nitrites are at 0 and Nitrates are under 5 ppm. I tossed in three hermit crabs yesterday and they seem to be doing okay.

The routine "new tank", reddish-brown diatoms have appeared so thats progress I guess. I need to pick up a couple snails to work on that.

I also picked up an Apex Jr, mostly so I can monitor temperature remotely.

Finally, most exciting development is that I finally picked out two clowns from Sustainable Aquatics and put the order in today through the LFS.

This actual Helmeted Onyx Picasso

and a Eared Wyomig White that will look like one of these guys

 

[ReefTron5000]

Seems like this forum is pretty dead but I'll update with some pics for the sake of documentation.

- Tank finally cycled after about 5 weeks. Nitrates keep coming up at 0 and the one phosphate test I ran came back at .02 ppm. I think the deep(ish) sand bed and IM reactor running GFO are helping.

- Fish acclimated and adjusted just fine. I added a very small Hi-Fin Red Banded Goby which went AFK about 5 minutes after adding him to the tank. Haven't seen him since and I assume its dead. Also added a Purple Firefish which is alive but constantly hiding. I think he eats.

- Moved a few corals from my main display over including a small chalice, some acans and a stylo frag. Everything looks great and for some reason, the acans look way better in this tank than they do at home which is kind of annoying. I was planning on adding a Blue tipped aussie torch but the one I have at home is too big so I need to find a small version of it. The basic torch I have in there now needs to go.

- Picked up about 8 frags yesterday and they seem to be doing okay as well. I'm being pretty picky about the pieces I want in this small setup.

Really hard capturing the colors with a cell phone cam. The two fungias in particular are really stunning and bright.

 

[michellejy]

I love this style of tank. I'm definitely tempted to get one myself. (*sigh* I am still cycling the 28 gallon nano I just bought.) Does it have a lid?

 

[ReefTron5000]

It doesn't come with a lid but BRS sells a mesh screen top kit that works perfectly. I made a top that sits flush. Its really nice.

 

[michellejy]

You did an amazing job with the lid. It's invisible in the pictures!

 

[ReefTron5000]

Hahaha. I'll try to get a pic of it.

There are some guys that make amazing acrylic lids for those JBJs.

 

[michellejy]

Hahaha. I'll try to get a pic of it.

There are some guys that make amazing acrylic lids for those JBJs.

I did the build from scratch route with my 120 gallon and ended up with a cracked sump that took out my tank, so I went the lazier, AIO route this time. (It's amazing how many changes I have already made to something that was *supposed* to be plug and play though!)

 

[ReefTron5000]

Theres a shot of my lid sitting flush. With the dosing lines pushing against the other side of it, the top fits really nice and snug.

Saved myself like $10 by not buying the stupid clips. Binder clips worked great to hold up both the lid and dosing lines.