Input sought - acclimation method

JHemdal

New member
All,

I'm working on a project that examines current acclimation techniques and ways to make the process better. One section I've written goes against "common knowledge", so I'd like to use you folks as a sounding board to see what flaws there might be in what I propose:


To Dump or Not to Dump?
Since I was a child, I was always taught NEVER allow ANY of a fish's transport water to enter the aquarium during acclimation. The idea that this shipping water is polluted with both organic wastes and fish parasites is common knowledge to everyone, isn't it? Knowing this to be true, I parroted that advice to thousands of people during my subsequent career in the pet trade and public aquariums. I never thought much about it, it became dogma for me.
What is the truth though? Certainly, animals produce waste, and while the animals are contained in a shipping bag, these wastes do build up. However, the amount the fish produce is relative to the shipping time, and if they had been in the operating aquarium for that same time, they would have produced the same amount of waste, yet the biological filter would have dealt with it in short order. If the addition this shipping water, with even an extra day's build-up of wastes would seriously harm the aquarium, then that system has much bigger problems that need to be corrected.
What about the potential for disease introduction? Since the fish is being moved into the tank, it will be carrying any parasites with it anyway, so this is not as big of an issue as one might think. There is one theory though, that promotes the idea that during shipping, many parasites may become dislodged from their host fish, and that by adding shipping water to the tank, you are in effect, adding extra parasites. My issue with this is that it has not been microscopically substantiated, nor is there any proof that such dislodged parasites can return and re-infect fish. Finally, if the fish had an infection, it is impossible that ALL parasites were dislodged into the shipping water, so the fish will still need to be medicated.
There are only two valid concerns regarding not adding shipping water to the aquarium; first, if the fish had been shipped with chemicals added to the water (including copper, methylene blue or antibiotics) and secondly, the possibility that the water contains higher than normal levels of heterotrophic bacteria. Neither of these are major issues, especially since the first step of the acclimation process outlined here is to remove most of the original shipping water before the process begins.
Go ahead and let the small original volume of shipping water to return to the aquarium. You can then recover all of the tank water you had added during additions, plus it is easier to just slide the fish out of the plastic bag. Most of us have had this happen: you struggle to net a fish out of the shipping bag, and you fumble for it as the fish flips out and hits the floor. Fish can be injured by net frames or caught in the net material itself. Some aquarists advocate transferring the fish by hand, but try that with a rabbitfish or some other venomous species! Human hands are not adept at holding struggling fish "“ best to just tip the bag over and slide them out, water and all!

Thoughts?


Thanks,

Jay
 
Interesting!

My only concern would be that most people have smaller sized QT tanks, which in addition are even less equipped to deal with a large sudden nutrient load. You might want to be prepared to do a large water change afterward. That said, if you are removing most of the water to begin with, the waste will have been diluted.

I would be very interested in reading the rest of your acclimation method !
 
Jay, my fear is (as you have cited) that chemicals in the shipping bag would cause problems (even in diluted form). I have no basis for this fear, other than it is one that has been passed on to me :)
 
I have an acrylic "box" with slits which drain the water out leaving only the fish. Works well. My fear is always waste (or "bad" water) from the fish in the shipping bag. Whether either of those is a reality is not clear.
 
I do my absolute best to not get any shipping water into my tank --- and it isn't because of "bugs" or any waste that may be in that water. But, like was touched on, I don't want any copper and the like going into my tanks.

Since I don't QT (( except for WC clowns )), it is very important to me not to get any copper into my full reef tank. I have never kept any venomous fish so I have always been able to use my hands. I use both and cup the fish to limit it from jumping out of my hands.
 
I don't want any forgien water in my system even if it's only a QT tank. Just makes sense to not dump it in on many levels.

Most of us have had this happen: you struggle to net a fish out of the shipping bag, and you fumble for it as the fish flips out and hits the floor. Fish can be injured by net frames or caught in the net material itself. Some aquarists advocate transferring the fish by hand, but try that with a rabbitfish or some other venomous species! Human hands are not adept at holding struggling fish "“ best to just tip the bag over and slide them out, water and all!

I just turn the bag upside down with my hand clenched on it so only the water trickles out into the drain or dump bucket.................then I just drop the fish out of the bag into the tank. They usually freeze when the water is gone & slid right out.

If a bucket is used for acclimation I'll just put egg crate or a dinner plate over the lip as I slowly pour out the water. Again, the fish just freeze.............never had one flop around.
 
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I often try to minimize the amount of water that gets into my tank. However, there are some animals (fish and inverts) that really should not be exposed to air at all. It's tough to do that without getting some of the shipping water into the tank.
 
Oh, and if you're using a QT, then at least the shipping water is going into there, rather than into the main display.
 
Thanks for the input folks. Cantonese fish, good point about the smaller volume of water in a quarantine tank in relation to the amount of bag water.

You see, the flip side of all this is the second side of the issue, that I alluded to in another thread. It turns out that the old "25%" additions every X minutes does not work, neither does drip acclimation at a set rate. If you truly want to equilibrate the tank and the bag water at a constant rate until they are about 90% equilibrated, you have to add increasing amounts of water with each addition, with the last addition something like 120% of the volume of the bag water (removing excess of course).

My fear is that aquarists will balk at the idea of dumping that much of their tank water (at 30 cents a gallon or whatever) so I thought if they could return that water to the tank, it would be a more palatable process......


Jay
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15607857#post15607857 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Wolverine
I often try to minimize the amount of water that gets into my tank. However, there are some animals (fish and inverts) that really should not be exposed to air at all. It's tough to do that without getting some of the shipping water into the tank.

Yes, I agree (I thought this was about fish). For animals other than fish, I dilute the water as much as possible, throwing away water from the dilution process. (usually there is a need to match SG in any case). Then, I add the animal using the diluted water once SG is matched. I general, I try never to mix water from tank to tank or shipping water to tank. In the case of fish, I always worry that there was copper used prophylactically or as treatment.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15608207#post15608207 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JHemdal

You see, the flip side of all this is the second side of the issue, that I alluded to in another thread. It turns out that the old "25%" additions every X minutes does not work, neither does drip acclimation at a set rate. If you truly want to equilibrate the tank and the bag water at a constant rate until they are about 90% equilibrated, you have to add increasing amounts of water with each addition, with the last addition something like120% of the volume of the bag water (removing excess of course).
Jay

When I add water, I toss water afterwards.
 
I would be curious how much modest differences in SG and temperature really affect the fish.
 
I bought an Accli-mate at MACNA, and have been VERY pleased with it for this pruposes completly. They supposedly make an XL version (although I "engineered" my own large version). Overall, I see NO positive, and ONLY negative from introducing store or transport water in the new home. And were talking like 30 extra seconds of effort to remove the animal from the water. Its not like its a difficult task.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15608212#post15608212 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by snorvich
Yes, I agree (I thought this was about fish). For animals other than fish, I dilute the water as much as possible,

Even with some fish, it's best not to let them get exposed to air at all (frogfish come to mind immediately, but there are several others).
 
Snorvich,
I ran the math on the issue of adding copper through addition of shipping water. Let's say the bag holds one liter of water with a copper concentration of 0.20 ppm. The first step in the acclimation process that I outline is after temperatures has equilibrated for 10 or 15 minutes, to immediately dump 2/3 of that water, and make your first tank water addition. So now there is 300ml of 0.20 ppm copper. If all of that is eventually added to a 20 gallon quarantine tank (75 liters) - the final concentration of copper would be reduced by 250 times to 0.0008 mg/l - NSW copper levels runs 0.0009 mg/l.


BrianD,
I really question that as well: the only issue I can see is when people buy fish from a system at hyposalinity, and then try to acclimate them to a display reef tank at full-strength, that can really dehydrate the fish (going the other direction poses no problem).


jmaneyapanda,
It isn't just about the effort of removing the fish from the bag (though I dropped a clownfish on the floor just last week!). It has to do with *if* people want to gradually acclimate their fish at a constant rate, it actually takes a huge amount of water to do it correctly. To bring the shipping water to within 90% of the values of the tank, it takes stepped addtions of water that total 9 times the volume of the shipping water! People just need to decide if they even want to do this, and then which is worse for them, the introduction of some now much-diluted shipping water, or the loss of 9 times the amount of seawater.

... I still have a problem changing my thinking on this - 45 years of accepting it makes it really hard to change! If nothing else, I'll no longer freak out if a floating fish bag tips over!

Jay
 
Maybe I shouldn't mention this, but what I often do is float the bag for about 20 minutes to equilibrate the temp, pour most of the water from the bag out, leaving just enough to keep the fish covered, and then dump that and the fish into the tank. I do this unless it's a very sensitive species.
 
To bring the shipping water to within 90% of the values of the tank, it takes stepped addtions of water that total 9 times the volume of the shipping water!

No it doesn't...........you pull out water from the bag then add new water. You're making this way to complicated than it has to be.

I acclimate temp & then take out enough water so the fish is still submerged completely. I add a cup of water. 10-15 min. later
I'll add another cup. Then 15 min I pull out 2 cups from bag & add a cup from the tank.......15 min add another cup to bag.

Pull out two cups then add two cups. In about an hour I'm done.

I don't get all caught up with all that percentage stuff. If I do this 4-6 times the fish is ready to go in the tank.
 
Jay- Im confused. Is the question whether we want to allow transport water in the system, or whether we acclimate the fish?
 
Ed,

No - the math works out. I'm not saying that you HAVE to do this gradual acclimation, but if you do, and if you want the rate of change (as in salinity) to be at a constant rate, you have to do graduated addtions. Here is an example:

Bag water at 4ppt difference in salinity than the tank:

First addition: add 10% tank water, reduces the salinity difference to 3.6 ppt

Second addition: add 20% tank water, salinity difference is now 3.03ppt

Third addition: add 40% tank water, 2.16 ppt

Fourth addition: add 60% tank water = 1.35 ppt

Fifth addition: add 80% new water = .75ppt

Sixth addition: add 100% new water = .38ppt

Seventh addition: add 120% new water = .17ppt difference water is know 96% equlibrated. This method takes 430% of the original bag volume. I graphed this out, it is a pretty straight line.

I'm not saying your method doesn't work - we have the gamut of ideas from float and dump to 12 hour drip acclimations, just that people who opt for those long acclimations (I don't!) need to be mindful that the volume of additions needs to be increased at each step if they want the rate to remain constant.

Jay
 
jmaneyapanda

I'm confused as well - here is a case where there are multiple questions on the table, each multivariate, almost all of it based opinion and personal anecdotes(grin).

My original question was to see how entrenched the idea of not adding shipping water to a tank is, and if I had missed any additional problems associated with doing that. We then got into sidetracks about the cost of dumped water, ways to get fish out of the bags, etc.!

great input everyone!

Jay
 
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