Internal return for 300g

hobbzz

hobbzz

How do I change this?
I'm setting up a 300g in a few weeks/months. I need a return pump that will put out about 1500-2000pgh after head loss. I'm thinking a vertical run of about 4-6ft and horizontal of about 13ft. 3-4 90 degree elbows, and 2 45's. Return will be in a fish room adjacent to the tank, but I would still like something that isn't crazy loud. I don't care if it's loud when you're next to it as long as I can't hear it through the wall. Mag 24 is the only thing that comes to mind that could do that kind of flow, but its 225w, and I'm not sure if I'd be ale to hear it through a wall.

If I have to go external, either due to lack of options or pricing being the same as an internal that large I will, so if anyone could recommend an external pump as well that would be great. I've tried searching, but when I narrow it down to returns for 300g it spits out hardly anything, and I don't have time to read through hundreds of threads just to find out the op is asking about a pump for a 90 gallon. Thanks in advance
 
Not really. I've read about it, however not really considered it. I'm also using the stock drains and overflow to do a modified bean animal. So I will use two holes for the drain that will be combined into a "T" before a gate valve, then one for the open channel and last one for an emergency. If I used two internal returns I'd need to connect them with a "Y" fitting and I'm not sure what that would do to the flow.
 
They are pretty quiet too. You can also find them pretty cheap on Amazon, just remove the large cage surrounding the pump. The motor block is actually widely used in the industry.
 
Be sure and use 1-1/2" plumbing, it makes a difference. 1-1/4" created a head of almost 9' and 1" is a head of almost 12'.
 
What if I used 1.5 up to as close to the tank as possible then split it into two 3/4" outlets? Or should I split into two 1" outlets? I'm still deciding whether or not to drill the back glass and just use locline, or do two sea swirls.
 
What about a waterblaster 16500. That's what I have and am very happy. Believe me you don't need that much flow. Most flow should be given by some good powerheads.
 
This flow is for the turnover through the sump, not flow in the display. Turnover through the sump is generally recommended to be 5-10 times the amount of the display. My display will be 300 gallons, so flow through the sump should be about 1500-3000 gph. I always like to shoot for the lower end of that.
 
sirreal63 said:
Look at the Laguna's, more than enough power.
http://www.lagunaponds.com/lagunaeng/maxflopumps/maxflo.php?link=141
Head loss chart here...
http://www.azponds.com/laguna_maxflo_chart.htm

You will have about 8' of head with a 6' vertical, 13 horizontal, 4-90's, 2-45's, 1-ball valve and 2 unions. I figured it with 1-1/2" plumbing so a smaller will yield different results. It looks like the 2900 would do what you want and uses 130 watts.
Click to expand...

Jack, how did you do your calculations? I'd like to know for myself so I don't have to keep asking when I finally get my plumbing done. After looking at the chart you linked to it looks like I'd actually likely go with the 2400. I'd rather have it a little closer to 1500 than 2000. Thanks.
 
I have a little app that the RC one is based on, I downloaded it years ago. I don't mind helping out, it is what we should all be doing for each other.

As far as the return size in the tank, the larger the better, if keeping as much flow as you can is important. Because these are not pressure rated pumps, the necking down at any point has a bad effect on flow. I would run the 2900 with a gate valve to adjust flow, it will also be enough that you can run reactors off of it as well. This is assuming the drain system will be able to adequately handle the flow without issues.
 
sirreal63 - Thanks. Can you calculate what would happen if I added a "Y"? Or send me the app lol ;-) !

It will be a bean animal so I should be fine. I haven't looked into the hole size for the overflow drains yet but if memory serves correctly they're all 1". So I'll have two 1" drains running at full siphon. The limiting factor might be the overflows themselves. I might need to modify them, not sure yet as that's another thing on my list to look into. I think, somewhere along the way I remember someone saying the overflow walls couldn't handle much with the stock teeth and his desired return gph pushed the water level in the tank up enough to touch the supports.

msderganc - The RC calculator only works with specific pumps, and Lagunas aren't on the list. Thanks though.
 
I wish I could, it was originally installed under XP and the operating system has been updated over the years all the way Winderz 7, the installation executable is long gone.

You can use the RC calc to help determine the plumbing head loss, I just chose a Mag24 because it will be close, though not 100% accurate, which is why I said "about". :D The one I have is no different than the RC one, same app made by the same people but it is customizable, though I never added any pumps to it.

For tee's I add two more 90's and a wye is slightly better than a tee. Adding two more 90's only added a few inches to the head. If you haven't yet, go to the beananimal thread in the DIY area and post up your plans, either Bean or Uncle will run it up the flagpole. You are probably right about the level rising too high on the teeth, it is something that may be corrected depending on how the overflow is designed.
 
If that is the case I don't have any idea what I'd do. I could always remove them and drill the back for returns and a bean but that's a lot of drilling on an expensive tank.
 
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