Is 130watts PC Enough for a BTA

Negative. It's not about the WATTS but the TYPE (aka Intensity) of the lights. The only thing watts tell you for sure is how much energy they consume.

130watts of PC does NOT equal 130watts of T5 or MH.

For a BTA you need to push as much HIGH INTENSITY light into the water as you can.

Here is a rather long post I made a few days ago... hopefully this will help some

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=17067809&postcount=6
 
I would like to get a BTA for my 30 gallon standard. Is 130 watts 50/50 PC enough to keep it alive?

How deep is that tank? (( not familiar with that size )). But, I am going to assume for now that it is 36" long, and not all that deep.

IMO, if you switched one of the 50/50 bulbs for a 10,000K, you could get away with it. It wouldn't be ideal, but most likely work.
 
I agree with Todd. If you have all daylights (6700k-10000k, for instance) and you keep the anemone within a foot of the bulbs, you should have no problem at all. PCs get old quickly, so you should replace the bulbs every 8 to 10 months max. Assuming a 30 long, you could keep the anemone at any place vertically as long it it's under the bulbs (two 65 watts I assume).
 
I've been bringing my bta back from the dead under 130 watts of pc lighting in a 20 long. 1x 12k and 1x 50/50 daylight (6700/10k). Looks like garbage but its enough light for a bleached nem to recover under.
 
Back when I had my 29 gallon set up I purchased a bleached bubble tip anemone. I had the same lighting setup as yours except I ran one 10k bulb and 1 50/50. Here is a picture of it after it regained all of its zooanthallae. However their are better lighting options available to the hobbyist. The one thing I didn't like about PC was that the bulbs seemed to change spectrum/color rather quickly.
Picture003.jpg
 
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So, if PC's will work, but aren't ideal, what is more ideal...without going all-out on MH's?

I'm looking at putting a BTA in my 29g sump as a host to two oci clowns that live there. Right now, I just have a standard flourecent, which I know isn't enough.

Would a 24" T5 work?
 
I have 110w PC 50/50 (2 bulbs; each part blue actinic and part 10000k daylight)
My anemones are fine. :)
I do plan on moving them and the clowns to a 29 Gallon BC with 150w MH-HQI around Christmas. :beachbum:
 
Ive had my rbta in my 30 gal with sam dims on yours for about 6 mo now, no problems whatsoever... not bleached, eats every 4 days, and is getting very large.... i have pc's with 130w total... one bulb 10k, one bulb full actinic, ill send pics of the nem if you want... it also has never moved since day one that i put it in... stays kinda low in the tank, not in the sand but pretty close...
 
I'm about as far as you can get from an expert on this subject, but I remember seeing another thread about something like this before. One guy had posted about how back in the day they used to use 40 & 80 watt bulbs with anemones. He said they grew, split, and grew some more without any problems.

From what I've picked up in various threads on this subject and from talking with some experienced people, the general consensus is this: BTAs are one of the lower light requirement anemones. They will survive under PC lighting in a "typical" standard depth tank and will be able to thrive if: water conditions are good and stable, and if you are feeding them properly. An anemone with lower lighting will have a higher food requirement than if you had high intensity lighting.

Again, I'm new myself, but I have read MANY threads like this. I erred on the side of caution, so I'm running 250w MH on a 90 gallon for my RBTA & GBTA. This also gives you the option of growing any coral you want. However, this would be kind of irrelevant in your case considering you are putting it in the sump.
 
Thanks Dustin. I'm one of the many who ran 40-80watts "back in the day", but keeping anenomes back then was inconsistent at best. However, that very well could have been water quality, or lack of quality foods.

I'm probably going to put some T5's over it just to be safe.
 
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