Is a glass shield necessary for MH bulbs?

msuzuki126

New member
I understand that it is a risk for splashing, but I have also heard that the shield protects corals from some rays from the bulb? Though, I have seen many tanks using retro-fits that don't have a shield. What is your opinion?
 
You might still want to use a shield with SE bulbs. Like has been stated DE bulbs require the shield for UV protection and SE bulbs have that built in in the globe. I use a piece of glass suspended under each of my SE's because it is possible for bulbs to get splashed and break, unlikely but still possible....especially if you have lots of fish that jump like I do.
FWIW, Chris
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8435419#post8435419 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fishdoc11
You might still want to use a shield with SE bulbs. Like has been stated DE bulbs require the shield for UV protection and SE bulbs have that built in in the globe. I use a piece of glass suspended under each of my SE's because it is possible for bulbs to get splashed and break, unlikely but still possible....especially if you have lots of fish that jump like I do.
FWIW, Chris

I remember reading somones tank crashed because of this. The bulb broke, but the light continued running, fried his coral, and the tank crashed. Agree with adding somthing to prevent breaking.
 
The only bad thing about using a piece of glass it will reduce the par of the bulb going the extra piece of glass. The chances of the glass breaking is pretty slim imo. You would need a piece of glass over the whole tank because of the reflection of the bulb if the glass broke.
 
I just got some DE bulbs that have UV protection built in. I heard an LFS is running the lights without the glass shield but I'm too chicken to try it. But yeah, for the most part DE bulbs need a shield and moguls don't.
 
I wouldn't recommend DE bulbs without a DE shield. From what I've read, you need the glass shield otherwise you will get the UV from it and is not good at all. SE bulbs have the glass around it thus being shielded. I honestly do not see how your LFS runs a true DE bulb not shielded.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8441918#post8441918 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jay24k
I wouldn't recommend DE bulbs without a DE shield. From what I've read, you need the glass shield otherwise you will get the UV from it and is not good at all. SE bulbs have the glass around it thus being shielded. I honestly do not see how your LFS runs a true DE bulb not shielded.

Like he said, some of the DE bulbs have shielding built in (like an SE bulb). Theres no reason to run a shield on them...that being said, I dont know if I'd be able to do it...would kinda freak me out.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8443517#post8443517 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RichConley
Like he said, some of the DE bulbs have shielding built in (like an SE bulb). Theres no reason to run a shield on them...that being said, I dont know if I'd be able to do it...would kinda freak me out.

Yeah no doubt Rich! I'm too chicken***t to try it. :lol: To be honest though I'd like to. It is a little reassuring to know that if my glass breaks (it happened to me once) that I won't fry my corals.
 
I had a 250w se break but it pretty much exploded and all the pieces of glass went in the tank. When I came home I noticed half the tank was not lit up and upon closer inspection, I saw half of a jagged sleeve was stuck in the middle of one of my larger colonies. To my surprise, it didnt really hurt the coral(I thought the temp of the glass alone would have fried it). I still find a piece of glass from time to time :). I would use a glass shield if you can get away with the loss in par.
 
No, you don't need it on VHO. I thought DE bulbs's glass wasn't enough and that is why they recommend the glass shield. But hey, I'm not a bulb manufacturer :)
 
I should probably clarify that this particular bulb is made with UV protection built-in and it is NOT the norm for DE bulbs. Here is a post from Elos, the maker of the bulb (I believe Nick works for or owns Elos) ....

A quote from Nick in another thread:

Hi Brett,
thanks for your question. It gives me the chance to clarify our position on bulb:
we have been the first company to introduce an UV filtered bulb. To signalize this to the customer we mark our bulb with the "UV-P" definition. The "UV-P" mark have been introduced by us, when we have first introduced our bulbs to the market about 8 years ago. Now, as far as I know, also some German producers have started to introduce the filter on the glass of their bulbs and one of them use the same mark as we do "UV-P" on their bulbs. No problem on this but, to be honest, this was our "trademark" and I'm happy to point out this on this discussion!

Shield glasses normally installed on pendant lights grant different type of protection toward UV. With our bulbs we give an extra protection which, of course will slightly influence (reduce) the PPFD as well as the CCT when compared to unshielded bulbs but we think that, the "bill to pay" is much lower than the effect that an unshielded bulb can generate (I've delicate eyes and I've personally been burned by unshielded bulbs).

On all our products we take great care of corals, fish, the aquarium, but mainly on users . On our test kit and additive we use ingredients and formulations which are not poison, we apply the security tag for blind people, we use closure safe to children, where possible, our electrical devices runs at low voltage, we take care to environment using safe material , our products are made to work well and to be easy to use etc. etc.

On bulbs? Here we definitely believe that it is much better to have a slightly reduced PAR, than burning your corals and also your eyes. This is why, we have decided to supply only shielded bulbs.
Beside this, from experiment, we have also found that in same case corals develop better coloration under our bulbs.... but I let you, to discover this (as many other hobbyist have found here in Europe) as a "side" effect on using a much safer bulb.

I don't like to give number of PPFD and CCT as they definitely depend on testing condition, instruments, working temperature, ballast. Just as a rough view let me say that, using our Planet, with electronic ballast our 250 watt bulb shows a CCT of about 8,800-9,000 with a PPFD of about 80-85 which slightly increase (close to 100-110) using the magnetic ballast version.

I hope to have given a fair view on our bulb. My suggestion is to try it. I'm sure you'll find it a good bulb.

And... protect your skin and eyes when you use unshielded bulbs in unshielded fixtures.
 
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