Is a UV steriliser needed?

Stevenlatham01

New member
Just putting together my final list of equipment that I need to buy. Do you all have a UV steriliser? If so when did you get it? At startup or a few months down the line? I'm going to be getting a tank now with a combined tank and sump of 145 gallons.
 
I think you will get very mixed opinions on them. Personally I don't have one nor do I believe them necessary. Some run them, some don't, and some have bought them thinking they will help only to remove and sell it.
 
I have one (Aqua UV classic), but I honestly don't use it much. It can come in handy for algae/bacteria blooms or even help controlling some parasites, but it's by no means necessary. It also has very limited benefit for things like ich. (Some people buy one solely under the premise that it will rid their tank of it.) If you do get one, The Aqua UVs are probably some of the best quality. IMO, stay away from the Coralife turbo-twists. The plastic on them is kinda cheap and they have a metal sleeve on the inside that rusts in about 3 months or so. Anyway, just my $.02.
 
If your running a FO I think its a good idea but not necessary, it serves as a polishing tool and it can help keep disease at bay. If your ruining a reef tank, a UV may actually kill things you want in the water atleast thats my minimal understanding with reef systems vs UV. I could be wrong on the latter...

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I will eventually be getting some corals so that means I prob can't get one. Do they work at all against ich?


Ich has to be in the free floating stage AND pass through the sterilizer for it to be effective. Ich also requires a much higher dose than most other things to kill. So, the UV in turn needs to have an exposure rating high enough at a given flow rate to kill ich.
 
The bulbs lose their effectiveness pretty quickly. i have had them in the past and I vote no for needing them.
 
The bulbs lose their effectiveness pretty quickly. i have had them in the past and I vote no for needing them.


The cheapo ones do. The Aqua UV ones usually work for 12-14 months continuous use (Without needing to slow the flow rate toward the end of the lifecycle for the same effectiveness.)
 
The potency rating (Microwatt secs/cm2 at a given flow rate) and life of the bulbs is usually published on the manufacturer's website.

My point is how does the user know if the bulbs are not living up the specs. I have no confidence in the manufacturer telling me anything that I cannot personally verify.
 
If you think it will control ich, you are mistaken IMO.
As stated above, the free floating stage of the parasite must pass thru the unit to have any effect.
Like hkgar, I had one and removed it.
 
If you think it will control ich, you are mistaken IMO.
As stated above, the free floating stage of the parasite must pass thru the unit to have any effect.
Like hkgar, I had one and removed it.

I bought it used prior to researching and researched after I got it so never installed it.

After 15 years of this reefing stuff I'm running out of room for for all the equipment I no longer use and have sold a bunch of used equipment too.
 
After 15 years of this reefing stuff I'm running out of room for for all the equipment I no longer use and have sold a bunch of used equipment too.
Almost done getting rid of all the stuff I 'needed' when I was starting out.
Now all I have are my emergency spares and things I use everyday.
Wish I could have all those wasted $$ back .......
 
I will eventually be getting some corals so that means I prob can't get one. Do they work at all against ich?

This system had a 120 watt UV running for years at the time of this video so they certainly can be used with corals. As for your original question no they are not needed if you QT EVERYTHING before adding them to your system (the cysts can be transfered from a contaminated sytem on any rock or equipment). While others claim they are useless battling ick I have used them repeatedly in my maintenance business to eradicate ick from reef systems. The caveots are they have to be properly sized, the flow rate has to maximise the kill rate, they have to be installed to maximise the intake of the larval (won't work if it's stuck on the sump) and they almost certainly will not be effective if you already are losing fish to an infestation.
 
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