So I have quite a few tanks around the house and 10 running. Until recently the only things I kept in my reef tanks were some fish and then some softies and anemone. The thing is, is that I now have my custom 30 gallon ZeroEdge aquarium ($4,000 retail) running as a mixed reef sps dominate. It has a 1100 gph return pump ($100) with 2 100 watt heaters and a custom German sump ($400) and skimmer that isn't as great as it seemed at the time because of its actual layout there is very little new water going to the skimmer. I also have a 200 watt sr aquaristik 36" blue and white led light($300). I also bought 2 rocks covered in zoas at this years aquatic experience that I had someone cut into 18 pieces with a saw and to this day they are still mostly closed with only a few that are open. I live near the guy who is in charge of reef nation and I went to his place and was lost in an amazing world of coral and have ended up spending over $400 over 2 visits. I just looked at his livestock and picked out the ones I though would look good under my light (I did a great job the coral look fantastic and neon) and never really asked what they were. Turns out he sold me a bunch of sps and I had no clue until I looked them up online. oops. My point is is that I was unprepared to make such a big commitment to coral as I thought I was sticking primarily to softies which are supposed to be much more easy to keep. As it turns out, I cannot keep softies alive or to grow very much at all. Up until this week none of my softies were open and most had died. My coral dealer said it was probably because my light was too intense. I moved the softies as best as I could to give them less light and the whole time my sps have been doing great. I have no powerheads but as I said I have over 1000 gallons of flow going through the tank it is just indirect flow because it is pointed at the ground. I have instant ocean sea salt and reef crystals to make over 1000 gallons of water but I am considering buying a calcium, alk, magnesium test kit and maybe start to does those elements. Is it worth the hastle? I already have the dosing pumps and I can easily get the chemicals to do it. Most of my sps are frags but 2 of them are over 4" in diameter. Is it going to be easier to keep doing weekly 50% water changes or should I dose 2 part and mag? Its all a lot of work but I have spent all of my money on this tank recently and I guess the extra work could pay off? Yes? No?
Is dosing 2 part worth it?
- Thread starter Cole12
- Start date
NS Mike D
New member
simple: corals consume alk and calcium and will deplete it if not replaced. This can be done with water changes, but most reef tanks inhabitants will consume it faster than it can be replaced with water changes. Not all - but most.
You have no way of knowing whether or not your water has enough calcium and alk unless you test. Mg keeps these two in balance.
Conversely, you there are countless threads advising people to stop dosing until they test and calculate CA and Alk consumption. Dosing blindly is a bad as not dosing - the common denominator is KNOWING by testing.
You have no way of knowing whether or not your water has enough calcium and alk unless you test. Mg keeps these two in balance.
Conversely, you there are countless threads advising people to stop dosing until they test and calculate CA and Alk consumption. Dosing blindly is a bad as not dosing - the common denominator is KNOWING by testing.
Here is the thing about dosing 2 part (or equivalent method) vs water changes to keep up with the big 3 (Ca, Alk and Mg). SPS are sensitive to changes. If can imagine your big 3 elements are drifting down over the course of the week, then you have a big spike at the 50% water change, then they drift down, then a big spike. SPS and acros in particular will not appreciate the pattern, not to mention that your alkalinity will likely have drifted out of acceptable range by the time you get to your water change, especially in such a small tank.
In short, yes 2 part or an equivalent method is "worth it" for an sps reef. By "worth it", I mean almost essential.
In short, yes 2 part or an equivalent method is "worth it" for an sps reef. By "worth it", I mean almost essential.
I think it is. Some people get by with Kalk in their ATO or doser, some I believe use Calcium reactor, some get by with water change alone and then theirs 2 part.
I only have a 40G, DT isn't even full of corals, 2 clams, most frags except for elegance and my alk fluctuates from around 9.6 after a 20℅ wc down to 8.3 after 2-3 days.
With 2 part, I have to dose around 30ml to get alk back up to 9.6.
A drop in alk usually means drop in calcium too, general consensus is 5 calcium per 0.7 alk......something like that.
I have a doser coming so it should keep my alk and calcium more stable. Auto dose x amount per day....my alk should stay fairly constant at 9.6
I only have a 40G, DT isn't even full of corals, 2 clams, most frags except for elegance and my alk fluctuates from around 9.6 after a 20℅ wc down to 8.3 after 2-3 days.
With 2 part, I have to dose around 30ml to get alk back up to 9.6.
A drop in alk usually means drop in calcium too, general consensus is 5 calcium per 0.7 alk......something like that.
I have a doser coming so it should keep my alk and calcium more stable. Auto dose x amount per day....my alk should stay fairly constant at 9.6
scooter31707
New member
IME, as I started out with corals and was buying some here and there to get my feet wet, Alk and Ca was not consumed like that and weekly water changes were keeping those parameters inline. As I began to buy more and corals began to grow, I notice those parameters start to decline over a 3-4 day span, so dosing was required for me to maintain these parameters. So my point is, if you have--say around 8-10 small corals you may be able to get away with keeping parameters stable with weekly water changes, but as your coral livestock increases and grows, I believe dosing is necessary.
greengeco82
Reefer
I agree with this guy ^^^^^
Its only 30 gallons, and you have very few corals. You can do water changes to keep your essential elements up. I'd say, buy calcium and alk test kits. API makes cheap ones. Do 20% water changes, not 50% (5 gallons every 2 weeks will probably be good). Or, when you elements get on the low side. Use the Reef Crystals that you already have. Reef Crystals has higher than normal Ca, Alk, and Mg than the Instant Ocean you already have (which will help replenish). As the corals grow and the demand of your tank increases, you may need to do more frequent water changes, or reevaluate the need for dosing.
Its only 30 gallons, and you have very few corals. You can do water changes to keep your essential elements up. I'd say, buy calcium and alk test kits. API makes cheap ones. Do 20% water changes, not 50% (5 gallons every 2 weeks will probably be good). Or, when you elements get on the low side. Use the Reef Crystals that you already have. Reef Crystals has higher than normal Ca, Alk, and Mg than the Instant Ocean you already have (which will help replenish). As the corals grow and the demand of your tank increases, you may need to do more frequent water changes, or reevaluate the need for dosing.
d2mini
Premium Member
Water changes only works for some (and IMO, few) tanks.
I have a 25g IM Fusion with sps and lps and there is no way water changes can keep up.
The only way to know for sure is to test and go from there.
Martin Kuhn
New member
One more thing:
Its not only the pure amount and of course also size of corals that defines your consumption.
It is also the conditions you give them. The better and the more stable conditions are, the faster and healthier SPS will grow. Most important conditions besides ca/Alk/Mg
- Low but not 0 Nutrient Level
- Sufficient UV Light with the correct spectrum
=> Be proud if your corals (especially) SPS grow as good that you can't compensate with WCs.
Then you Won't regard dosing as "neccessary or not", it will be a pleasure to do so and see things really grow!
best rgds
Martin
Its not only the pure amount and of course also size of corals that defines your consumption.
It is also the conditions you give them. The better and the more stable conditions are, the faster and healthier SPS will grow. Most important conditions besides ca/Alk/Mg
- Low but not 0 Nutrient Level
- Sufficient UV Light with the correct spectrum
=> Be proud if your corals (especially) SPS grow as good that you can't compensate with WCs.
Then you Won't regard dosing as "neccessary or not", it will be a pleasure to do so and see things really grow!
best rgds
Martin
sde1500
Active member
Dosing without testing is not a good plan, you shouldn't even have corals in your tank without having tested first. Test weekly with water changes, measure the rate nutrients are used then determine if dosing is needed.
Also, not sure why but this bugged me, why include the retail price you paid for your stuff? We all know the hobby is expensive, we've all spent lots of money, no need to advertise what you've spent.
Also, not sure why but this bugged me, why include the retail price you paid for your stuff? We all know the hobby is expensive, we've all spent lots of money, no need to advertise what you've spent.
scooter31707
New member
If I don't want coralline algae, why should I worry about dosing?
davehead86
New member
Coraline shows up eventually. No way around it. Even if you scrap it off the glass it still will cover your rocks. Hes just saying that it consumes these things too.
TheOtherDB
New member
Hey, Cole ...
I have a 34 gallon RedSea that I keep testing the water on about once a month, watching for low calc/mag values. I change about 5 gallons out per week using a high end salt mix with trace minerals already in it. The tank has been in operation for 9 months without a dip in calc/mag to a point that needs dosing. I have a dozen stony animals and a substantial pink coraline coating (which my urchin loves, btw ...). I've yet to feel the need to invest in dosing chems/supplies beyond that that is already in the salt.
I have a 34 gallon RedSea that I keep testing the water on about once a month, watching for low calc/mag values. I change about 5 gallons out per week using a high end salt mix with trace minerals already in it. The tank has been in operation for 9 months without a dip in calc/mag to a point that needs dosing. I have a dozen stony animals and a substantial pink coraline coating (which my urchin loves, btw ...). I've yet to feel the need to invest in dosing chems/supplies beyond that that is already in the salt.
Hey, Cole ...
I have a 34 gallon RedSea that I keep testing the water on about once a month, watching for low calc/mag values. I change about 5 gallons out per week using a high end salt mix with trace minerals already in it. The tank has been in operation for 9 months without a dip in calc/mag to a point that needs dosing. I have a dozen stony animals and a substantial pink coraline coating (which my urchin loves, btw ...). I've yet to feel the need to invest in dosing chems/supplies beyond that that is already in the salt.
You obviously don't have much growth. Keep testing, if you don't need to dose then don't......as the stony corals grow they'll consume more alk /cal/mag eventually your day will come.
TheOtherDB
New member
Actually, I am shocked at how fast things are growing. My Favia has increased ~3/4 of an inch (19mm) since introduction 7 months ago. Some of the Montiporas have increased double that amount. Granted, as the frags I've introduced since we set up the tank grow larger, I may need to dose. But if the test values are within tolerance, dosing seems redundant and adds cost that is unnecessary. I'm in no race to crowd myself out of our modest 34 gallon. I think my point is much as you've already said; test the water. If you don't need to dose ... don't.
