Is this ich or should I not be worried?

itz frank

Gives Bad Advice.
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Picture is not clear enough, but yes you should be concerned


Thank you. This guy doesn't stop moving. I'll try and get better photos tomorrow.

During t5 light time, I can't see the white dots. On the LED time, I can.

Since its in my display and is a reef. What's my next suggested move? Wait to see if it gets worse?


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Try for a clearer picture. Behavior? History?


Behavior seems completely normal. Eating. Haven't seen him scratching. He's been in the tank since Sunday.

I thought I viewed a clown scratch on Monday or Tuesday. But I don't think the ich life cycle would be that fast to swap hosts? Maybe I'm wrong. Nothing else in the tank has any white dots.


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Just saw this:

How old is this aquarium? Less than two months old.

2. If less than six months old, what is ammonia level? 0ppm api

3. What is SG of this aquarium? How measured? 1.026 refractometer

4. When was the last fish added to this aquarium? Sunday

5. Was it quarantined? If so, how? And how long? Was it prophylactically treated? How?
No

6. If you are using a copper based medication, which one? How often do you measure level? When?

7. If you are using hyposalinity, how did you calibrate your refractometer?

8. Please describe in detail, the appearance of the fish? If there is one or more pimples, are they lumpy? What color?
White small dots. More than one. Both sides of fish. Varying in size.

9. Please describe the behavior of the fish as best you can. Is it acting reclusive? Is it always up towards the top of the aquarium? Is it avoiding light? How active is the fish?
Fish very active. Eating Reef frenzy frozen mix. Not reclusive. Swimming with others. Not sure about water column question. Definitely in the open swimmer. Not sucking bubbles at the top.

10. Is the fish eating? What? Frozen. Reef frenzy mix.



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With a fish eating heartily, swimming actively, catching the ich early, and corals in the tank, I have had pretty good success infusing MetroPlex and Focus into frozen mysis as it thaws before feeding, and then doing this for between two and three weeks.

Hope this helps!


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Well these blennies do wedge themselves in tight spots, could be debris but difficult to say from pics


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I'll try and get better ones today. It does look a little like rubbing closer near his head but I don't know. I think I'm paranoid but a clown has one white dot this morning.


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Thank you for the advice and your opinion.

So, fish should come out then as best course of action. Based on the ich life cycle, there should be ich on additional fish by Sunday, correct?


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All fish should be treated with TTM. You may or may not see visible symptoms.
 
def ich . ive used medic before with good success But it takes time due to how it works. basicaly causes free radical oxidation in the ich cells leading to death. coral safe. my lfs suggested running around 1/3 higher dose than stated on the instructions HOWEVER this worked for me BUT consult poyplabs about it.. Took 14 days to clear in my tank lost the culprit (tuskfish) but saved all others. never returned and i do have a blue tang!!!!!

ps maintain a high temp in the tank as low temps thin the mucus layer on most fish imo
 
def ich . ive used medic before with good success But it takes time due to how it works. basicaly causes free radical oxidation in the ich cells leading to death. coral safe. my lfs suggested running around 1/3 higher dose than stated on the instructions HOWEVER this worked for me BUT consult poyplabs about it.. Took 14 days to clear in my tank lost the culprit (tuskfish) but saved all others. never returned and i do have a blue tang!!!!!

ps maintain a high temp in the tank as low temps thin the mucus layer on most fish imo

Raising temperature should not be done; lower is better. There is no reef safe product for treating ich.
 
Raising temperature should not be done; lower is better. There is no reef safe product for treating ich.
true

TRUE
temp is def my opinion based on anecdotal internet referencing And please note i state maintain not increase ie if your tank temp is 27c maintain as dropping to 24 would cause thinner mucous allowing easier attachment of new/young ich in free swimming form. To clarifiy if your tank is 24c dont raise your temps as snorvich mentions.

BUT

Medic is a highly effective water conditioner used to control external fish parasites present in both marine and freshwater environments. It contains a reef-safe oxidizing agent and is particularly effective against Marine Ich - Crytopocaryon Irritant as well as others.

http://www.polyplab.com/products/medic as reference

regards bruce
 
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true

TRUE
temp is def my opinion based on anecdotal internet referencing And please note i state maintain not increase ie if your tank temp is 27c maintain as dropping to 24 would cause thinner mucous allowing easier attachment of new/young ich in free swimming form. To clarifiy if your tank is 24c dont raise your temps as snorvich mentions.

BUT

Medic is a highly effective water conditioner used to control external fish parasites present in both marine and freshwater environments. It contains a reef-safe oxidizing agent and is particularly effective against Marine Ich - Crytopocaryon Irritant as well as others.

http://www.polyplab.com/products/medic as reference

regards bruce

Ich is not an external parasite. Just because a company says something about their product does not make it true,
 
Active Ingredients in Medic: Metronidazole, Peroxide acids. Neither of these are effective in the treatment of ich, and I certainly wouldn't dose metro in a reef tank.
 
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