Is this lighting good for Acropora Corals...?

[Salty150]

Why are you dead set on marineland?

Because my tank is a Marineland 60" tank...

Only Marineland makes a 60" tank...

And only Marineland sells the 60" lighting to fit the tank...

I have the matching stand and canopy - so the lighting has to fit under the canopy, etc...

 

[lonzoencho]

Two ocean Revives /Reef Breeders/Evergrows would be better options

 

[Tweaked]

Because my tank is a Marineland 60" tank...

Only Marineland makes a 60" tank...

And only Marineland sells the 60" lighting to fit the tank...

I have the matching stand and canopy - so the lighting has to fit under the canopy, etc...

http://www.marinedepot.com/ATI_60_I...0_Inch_Fixtures-ATI-UZ3013-FILTFIT5SI-vi.html

 

[Tweaked]

Two ocean Revives /Reef Breeders/Evergrows would be better options

An opinion of course. And in mine, T5's are the middle earth between halides and LEDs. Good color, coral growth, and power consumption isn't too bad. The only complaint I have is they are lacking that shimmer I get out of my radiums.

 

[acrohead500ppm]

get the 2x150w HQI +2x 54 w t-5s, throw some decent bulbs in there and you will have no problem keeping acropora/ high light sps with decent growth rates in the top 1/2 of the tank.
In the bottom 1/2 most montis, poccis, stylo, sertis etc would do fine, some staghorn species of acropora will do fine as well as long as other husbandry is sound (flow, mineral demands)

Only thing like some mentioned, would be advisable not to keep tridacnid clams on the bottom of the tank because of its depth and only 150watts of halide to punch through it. However, IMO if the water is kept nice and polished, lights kept clean, bulbs changed often and you add an appropriate food supplement regularly, I see no reason why it wouldn't be possible to keep a lower light demanding Tridacnid species like T. derasa or T. squamosa.

 

[Salty150]

get the 2x150w HQI +2x 54 w t-5s, throw some decent bulbs in there and you will have no problem keeping acropora/ high light sps with decent growth rates in the top 1/2 of the tank.
In the bottom 1/2 most montis, poccis, stylo, sertis etc would do fine, some staghorn species of acropora will do fine as well as long as other husbandry is sound (flow, mineral demands)

Only thing like some mentioned, would be advisable not to keep tridacnid clams on the bottom of the tank because of its depth and only 150watts of halide to punch through it. However, IMO if the water is kept nice and polished, lights kept clean, bulbs changed often and you add an appropriate food supplement regularly, I see no reason why it wouldn't be possible to keep a lower light demanding Tridacnid species like T. derasa or T. squamosa.

Will this light get "hot"...

Especially under a canopy?

Will it raise the water temp...?

 

[acrohead500ppm]

Will this light get "hot"...

Especially under a canopy?

Will it raise the water temp...?

Are you leaving the top open? I hope you are not planning on using glasstops
esp the ones that came with your marineland tank.

If your canopy is open from the back and you hang the fixture inside the canopy (how tall we talking here btw?)
you shouldnt have a big issue with ventilation, however muffin fans would be recommended.

Of course it might raise your temperature a tad! not much though considering the wattage vs water volume. However, how you planning on water motion in the display? powerheads and most wavemakers add heat, same with submersible skimmer pumps, and return pumps.

Get the light watch the temps, purchase a small temp fan to use if it gets to hot, then plan on how are going to go about keeping it in check if it rises too high. (fans on timers, rancos, etc etc )


Next I would start searching the used parts on here to find a tunze stream or two at a deal, plus maybe a nice used skimmer then go buy a good set of test kits.

should be ready to rock and roll after that.

 

[Salty150]

Are you leaving the top open? I hope you are not planning on using glasstops
esp the ones that came with your marineland tank.

If your canopy is open from the back and you hang the fixture inside the canopy (how tall we talking here btw?)
you shouldnt have a big issue with ventilation, however muffin fans would be recommended.

Of course it might raise your temperature a tad! not much though considering the wattage vs water volume. However, how you planning on water motion in the display? powerheads and most wavemakers add heat, same with submersible skimmer pumps, and return pumps.

Get the light watch the temps, purchase a small temp fan to use if it gets to hot, then plan on how are going to go about keeping it in check if it rises too high. (fans on timers, rancos, etc etc )


Next I would start searching the used parts on here to find a tunze stream or two at a deal, plus maybe a nice used skimmer then go buy a good set of test kits.

should be ready to rock and roll after that.

Hmm, yeah, the tank has the glass tops that came with it...

I was planning on using them...

The canopy is open in the back.

The light you saw comes with stands that raise the light 2.5 inches off of the top - so no hanging...

Are there muffin fans that are temperature controlled to turn on, or...?

I am planning on using the EcoTech Marine VorTech MP10wQD (40?) for water movement...

 

[acrohead500ppm]

Mehahaha, you might want to do some reading up before you jump into keeping SPS/Acropora.

No glass! ditch the idea of using a fixture and retrofit t5s and maybe some halides in the canopy, give us some pics of what you are working with so we can give you ideas.

Also, one MP10 won't do crap in a 5ft tank, two MP40s at minimum if you are going the vortech route.
if you want to turn your tank into an SPS reef

plan on spending 3-400+ on lighting

plan on spending at least 200 on water movement in the display, then another 200 or more on a good skimmer.

 

[USAFReefer]

Do you have the ability to DIY? I have made quite a lot of LED lights for tanks and costs range between $150-$300 depending on the size tank.

This is a supplemental LED light for use with SolarTubes that cost about $150 to make on a 6' 240G tank. For a full spectrum light on a 5' tank with a controller like a Typhoon it shouldn't cost more than $300 if you make it yourself and it will be 100x better than anything Marineland has on the market.

 

[Salty150]

Are there any other easier to take care of corals that look somewhat like Acropora?



Or should I just stick with the bright colored polys?

 

[USAFReefer]

To me, one super easy coral that can be mistaken as an acro from across the room and grow under low light conditions would be a green sinularia.