Is This Manifold Okay ?

drew930

New member
Here is what Im planning to build when I set up my tank. Main questions I had where size of fittings and pvc. In another thread, I decided to go with 3 drains, 1 return my 120, with a Sicce 5.0 (1321gph). I was going to do a Herbie style with 2 siphons and 1 emergency drain.

For the manifold I ordered a couple wrong fittings from BRS. Heres is the manifold using 3/4" pvc (same as return). I ordered 3x 1/2" Cepex Ball valves for my reactors. I have 2 deluxe BRS reactors, and eventually a bio pellet for the barb fitting. I have no way with the fittings I HAVE NOW, to connect the 1/2" Cepex valves to the 3/4" Tees. I accidentally ordered 3 reducer bushings (thread x thread) and cost $12 !!! This site has reducer tees that I haven't seen at Lowe's or BRS. SO I will be sending the reducer bushings ($12), and 3x 3/4" tees (another $12) back and ordered 3x 3/4" x 1/2' reducer tees to put in place of the tees above the cep valves. These Tees with shipping are only $10 ! So I save $14.
http://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/80...e-80-pvc-reducing-tee-slip-x-slip-x-slip.html


Main question... is does this look alright ? Im picturing the valves facing down from Tees, but should they be facing up ? or maybe make them flat ? Does it really matter ? Only reason i ask is because I might mount the BRS to a 2x4 inside top of stand to make more room. The BRS reactors use a more hard tubing where flexibility isn't great.

Here it is, when I swap the fittings, only thing that will change is the tees above valves. The will reduce to 1/2" so I can connect valves to tees with no extra fittings.

 
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i would but ball value on after T and before quick disconnect!

like this, orange valve...

IMG_4949.jpg
 
i would but ball value on after T and before quick disconnect!

That was my thought as well

Also you may want to consider Gate Valves since they are easier to fine tune.


When I decide to redo my manifold I plan to go to gate valves.
 
i would but ball value on after T and before quick disconnect!

like this, orange valve...

View attachment 326992

Thanks for the advice. I'm a little confused as to what that valves purpose is ? This is why I posted this question lol

So I have valves before each reactor. I also will have valve Down by pump and valve right before bulkhead. Could you explain what a valve after the T would do ? I'm guessing you mean put a valve in place of the Union ?
 
Thanks for the advice. I'm a little confused as to what that valves purpose is ? This is why I posted this question lol

So I have valves before each reactor. I also will have valve Down by pump and valve right before bulkhead. Could you explain what a valve after the T would do ? I'm guessing you mean put a valve in place of the Union ?

The idea would be to have a gate valve that could be used to fine tune flow, and a ball valve that could be used for on/off without changing the gate valve adjustment, and the union would allow for quick and easy removal and replacement of a given component.
 
It is good to have a valve before the manifold so you can shut off the entire manifold
to work on it or to replace it if desired while leaving the rest of system running.
 
It is good to have a valve before the manifold so you can shut off the entire manifold
to work on it or to replace it if desired while leaving the rest of system running.

yes!!! keep the union after value, turn valve off allows removal of manifold......system still running!!! gate value on each outlet for tuning. mine has 4 gate valves. chiller, calcium reactor, GAC...
 
DUH !!! Completely miss that fact that the valve will help for removal. I was just thinking I can turn all off and not remove. Maybe I should add another ! So do I need a union AND a ball valve ? The union will be replaced by ball valve right ? Since its basically a union too ?

Might add more unions between Tees as well, but if I don't, do you guys think I should have them facing up, down , or horizontal ?
 
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