Is this metal spring reef safe?

brandoniscool

New member
Hey all, setting up a new tank in my school. Should be pretty cool, 180 coral grow out tank with a 120 gallon sump on the ground (kid level) with a large touch and feel invert refugium.

I was planning in installing a one way valve in the plumbing but realized it contains a metal spring. I'm guessing that it's not reef safe but wanted to check before I left it out. I sacrificed one for the photo. I'm already deep in one this tank and can't afford the fancy valve on BRS.

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Here's one I just worked on

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The only metals that could be considered safe for a reef would be platinum, gold, zerconium, graphite, and titanium, and some exotic stainless alloys such as 20Cb-3, in order of 'safeness.' (order on the galvanic chart) In other words, if the spring is not titanium, or an exotic stainless alloy, the valve is not going to be 'reef safe.'
 
I don't really understand you overflow system but I would never trust on one way valves in an aquarium system. You always get small snails, calcium deposits etc in you tubes. I will never be really closed.

The metal spring will rust and break, not only is it not reef safe but will not last long.
 
I don't really understand you overflow system but I would never trust on one way valves in an aquarium system. You always get small snails, calcium deposits etc in you tubes. I will never be really closed.

The metal spring will rust and break, not only is it not reef safe but will not last long.

Hello,

Thanks for your interest.

I agree that the overflow system is a little funky. I run a project that puts reef tanks in elementary school classrooms and teaches kids how to run them. I pay for about 50% of the project out of project and I have to cut corners sometimes. The tank is a 180 I got off craiglist from a guy who had a full sized tattoo of the electric chair on his chest. I got the tank, stand and a funky sump for $210. The tank is third hand and the person who initially set it up had some kind of funky stove pipe internal overflow with an inlet right next to it. I tried to modify the design without drilling more holes and attempted to use the herbie overflow setup.

I actually wanted the one way valve for the return directly from the pump so that when the pump is turned off the locline tubing doesn't back siphon too water from the display tank.

Any ideas of how to prevent the back syphoning without the valve?
 
Hello,

Thanks for your interest.

I agree that the overflow system is a little funky. I run a project that puts reef tanks in elementary school classrooms and teaches kids how to run them. I pay for about 50% of the project out of project and I have to cut corners sometimes. The tank is a 180 I got off craiglist from a guy who had a full sized tattoo of the electric chair on his chest. I got the tank, stand and a funky sump for $210. The tank is third hand and the person who initially set it up had some kind of funky stove pipe internal overflow with an inlet right next to it. I tried to modify the design without drilling more holes and attempted to use the herbie overflow setup.

I actually wanted the one way valve for the return directly from the pump so that when the pump is turned off the locline tubing doesn't back siphon too water from the display tank.

Any ideas of how to prevent the back syphoning without the valve?

The truth of the matter is there is no way to prevent 'back siphoning' better known as power out drain down, that can be relied upon 100% of the time, and the time you need it most, will be the time it will fail. The two methods are the 'check valve' and 'anti-siphon holes.' Check valves have a failure probablility of 100%, and holes have a failure probability of 99%. Combining both puts the failure probability at 100%.

Retrun lines < 1" below the water level in the tank will reduce the volume of power out drain down; enough empty volume in the sump to contain ALL power out drain down is the only 'passive' failsafe there can be, and it cannot fail...If there is not enough empty volume in the sump, the sump needs to be redesigned so there is enough empty volume, or the sump replaced with a larger tank. Also, lock line, is just a hobby toy, that really does not accomplish anything at all, and is better left out of the plan.
 
I've placed all of my returns close enough to the surface that the sump can handle The amount of water that is going to flow into if the power fails. I also have a siphon break hole on the return line just below the surface, but as part of my tank cleaning I make sure that hole is clear and open
 
Hey all, thanks for all of your thoughtful advice and interest. It's frustrating to go to my LFS and get nowhere. To respond to your questions.

The return pipe is 1''

I think that drilling a small syphon break in both returns will be the way to go. During the school year I have more eager hands ready to do chores then I know what to do with. Keeping it clean and clear won't be an issue.

I was using the Locline to direct the flow in the tank, isn't that what it's for?

I'm a third grade teacher at a title one school. I'm very interested in learning process skills, i.e. teaching kids how to learn rather than plain facts and figures. Right now I just moved to a new school with an administrator that wants me to expand my reef project to the entire school. We have three tanks setup around the school and are scheduling time for all kids to work with them. My personal students are the reef leaders and about 90% of all of the tank maintenance and care is completed by third graders. I'm in the process of creating curriculum to teach math and science using the aquariums. We had, and will have a thread on the New to Hobby section if you wanna be part of some Q&A with students.

Here's a RC thread about us.

Here's a link to my website.

I'd be happy to talk more about it if anyone's interested. PM me or respond to this post.


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