Isn't that a lot more work?

I have so much more to learn, which I knew, but I don't think I've even seen the term "cryptic sponges" before. I feel like I'm brand new to the hobby all over again :ROFLMAO:
 
I'm two coffees into my morning and still a little lost. I had to read that a couple times, Tim. I'm hearing that my algae reactor could probably be traded/sold off. it sounds almost like it could be more negative than positive for the tank?

"What saves corals are the cryptic sponges that remove DOC a thousand times faster than the bacterioplankton (30 minutes vs 20 days) that might be removed by skimmers"

can you walk me through that? I grabbed the links you posted but be patient with me those are long reads so I'll have to come back to them, lol. I'm not sure if I'm understanding your stance on protein skimmers from this statement. the past 3 years I have had nothing more than a natural rock / sand/ CUC with essentially a sponge filter setup that I'd occasionally update/clean, and felt like I had things pretty under control with my corals growing, spreading, and my fish starting to breed. So I've been very excited about the additional water of the sump, the reefmat and protein skimmer for the perceived water quality improvement but now I'm really wondering what the best solution here is, lol.


What's happening with DOC in reef ecosystems is VERY COMPLICATED! There's hundreds of researchers looking at what's going on with DOC and bacteria and archaea (single cell stuff that aren't bacteria) and fungii and phages (viruses that attach archaea and bacteria). I don't ever expect to be able to wrap my head around all of it. (In fact, a significant majority of the stuff that falls under the label of "DOC" is still "undifferentiated", not defined,) If you can find a copy of Forest Rohwer's "Coral Reefs in the microbial Seas" it is an excellent introduction to the conflicting roles of DOC, algae and corals. The University of California put out a video by Rohwer which compliments his book, but I'd encourage you get his book as it covers some of the initial research not looked at in his video. (You may be able to borrow a copy online from Archive.org.)

In a nutshell, bacteria and archaea processes are strongly influenced by DOC (aka carbon dosing). The effects of DOC are species specific, ie, the "species" or type DOC has species specific effects on bacteria and archaea and those in turn have species specific effects on corals. The paper by Kline, et al, I linked to in my previous post besides showing the species specific effects of DOC also showed excess DOC of the coral that produced it had an negative effect when reap to that coral. Finally, algae produces far more DOC than corals.

More recent work by research has shown DOC affects corals in two basic ways. First, it promotes pathogenic shifts in coral microbiomes (I should mention coral microbiomes are species specific and research on coral immune systems shows genotyupe specific variables). Second. excess DOC can create annoxic conditions in the boundery layer around corals esentially suffocating them (this boundary layer is only a few mm thick).


From what I've over the years cryptic sponges are ubiquitous in reef systems. When ever I've moved or reaquascaped a system there have been cryptic sponges. Steve Tyree started promoting them for filtration back in the '90s. It's de Goeig's work that showed how essential they are for corals and the food webs in reef ecosystems One of de Goeig's discoveries was at least some of these cryptic sponges have a mitosis rate of just 6-8 hours. But instead of growing at some phenominal rate, they are shedding huge amounts of cellular detritus rich in nutrients back into the ecosystem. This process of converting DOC into particulate detritus explains why coral aren't killed in short order by algae scrubers or by adding DOC to promote bacterial growth to be removed by skimmers.

On the face of it skimmers might seem like a good idea as they are removing bacterioplankton from the water column even if the bacteria and archaea are feeding off secondary stuff and not directly off DOC as is assumed with carbon dosing. The microbial and protein waste in reef systems can be divided into stuff that's hydrophillic and stuff that's hydrophobic. Unfortunately, skimmers are only removing stuff that has a hydrophobic nature. One way or another skimmers are skewing the microbial species in the water and disrupting the processes that are promoting stuff beneficial for corals. More importantly, a subset of DOC labeled Dissolved Combined Neutral Sugars (DCNS) has been identifed as the primary culprits causing problems with cotrals and they are not removed by skimmers, or GAC for that matter.

So, short answer, don't use a skimmer, don't carbon dose and don't grow algae. Do frequent water chagnes (20% - 30% monthly) as that's the only way to reduce stuff equally :) Adding a sump is beneficial, it adds more surface area for gas exchange, more water volume which should help with stability and if unlit it helps create a more diverse ecosystem.
 
I'm two coffees into my morning and still a little lost. I had to read that a couple times, Tim. I'm hearing that my algae reactor could probably be traded/sold off. it sounds almost like it could be more negative than positive for the tank?

"What saves corals are the cryptic sponges that remove DOC a thousand times faster than the bacterioplankton (30 minutes vs 20 days) that might be removed by skimmers"

can you walk me through that? I grabbed the links you posted but be patient with me those are long reads so I'll have to come back to them, lol. I'm not sure if I'm understanding your stance on protein skimmers from this statement. the past 3 years I have had nothing more than a natural rock / sand/ CUC with essentially a sponge filter setup that I'd occasionally update/clean, and felt like I had things pretty under control with my corals growing, spreading, and my fish starting to breed. So I've been very excited about the additional water of the sump, the reefmat and protein skimmer for the perceived water quality improvement but now I'm really wondering what the best solution here is, lol.

My answer was too big so here's the second part. :D

And here's a huge data bomb. Most of the papers will have additional links if you need more rabbit holes to go down. :D

Videos

"Coral Reefs in the Microbial Seas " This video compliments Rohwer's book of the same title. Used copies are available on line and it may be free to read on Internet Archive. both deal with the conflicting roles of the different types of DOC (carbon dosing) in reef ecosystems and how it can alter coral microbiomes. While there is overlap bewteen his book and the video both have information not covered by the other and together give a broader view of the complex relationships found in reef ecosystems and are an excellent starting point to understand the conflicting roles of Dissolved Organic Carbon (DOC, aka "carbon dosing") in reef ecosystems.

Changing Seas - Mysterious Microbes

Microbial view of Coral Decline

Nitrogen cycling in hte coral holobiont

BActeria and Sponges

Maintenance of Coral Reef Health (refferences at the end)
- YouTube

Optical Feedback Loop in Colorful Coral Bleaching
- YouTube

DNA Sequencing and the Reef Tank Microbiome
- YouTube

Richard Ross What's up with phosphate"
- YouTube


DOC stuff

Global microbialization of coral reefs, Rohwer's DDAM theory proof.

Indirect effects of algae on coral: algae‐mediated, microbe‐induced coral mortality

Influence of coral and algal exudates on microbially mediated reef metabolism.
Coral DOC improves oxygen (autotrophy), algae DOC reduces oxygen (heterotrophy).

Role of elevated organic carbon levels and microbial activity in coral mortality

Effects of Coral Reef Benthic Primary Producers on Dissolved Organic Carbon and Microbial Activity
Algae releases significantly more DOC into the water than coral.

Pathologies and mortality rates caused by organic carbon and nutrient stressors in three Caribbean coral species.
DOC caused coral death but not high nitrates, phosphates or ammonium.

Visualization of oxygen distribution patterns caused by coral and algae

Biological oxygen demand optode analysis of coral reef-associated microbial communities exposed to algal exudates
Exposure to exudates derived from turf algae stimulated higher oxygen drawdown by the coral-associated bacteria.

Microbial ecology: Algae feed a shift on coral reefs

Coral and macroalgal exudates vary in neutral sugar composition and differentially enrich reef bacterioplankton lineages.

Sugar enrichment provides evidence for a role of nitrogen fixation in coral bleaching

Elevated ammonium delays the impairment of the coral-dinoflagellate symbiosis during labile carbon pollution
(here's an argument for maintaining heavy fish loads if you're carbon dosing)

Excess labile carbon promotes the expression of virulence factors in coral reef bacterioplankton

Unseen players shape benthic competition on coral reefs.

Allelochemicals Produced by Brown Macroalgae of the Lobophora Genus Are Active against Coral Larvae and Associated Bacteria, Supporting Pathogenic Shifts to Vibrio Dominance.

Macroalgae decrease growth and alter microbial community structure of the reef-building coral, Porites astreoides.

Macroalgal extracts induce bacterial assemblage shifts and sublethal tissue stress in Caribbean corals.

Biophysical and physiological processes causing oxygen loss from coral reefs.

Coral Reef Microorganisms in a Changing Climate, Fig 3

Ecosystem Microbiology of Coral Reefs: Linking Genomic, Metabolomic, and Biogeochemical Dynamics from Animal Symbioses to Reefscape Processes

Sponge stuff

Element cycling on tropical coral reefs.
This is Jasper de Geoij's ground breaking research on reef sponge finding some species process labile DOC 1000X faster than bacterioplankton. (The introduction is in Dutch but the content is in English.)

Sponge symbionts and the marine P cycle

Phosphorus sequestration in the form of polyphosphate by microbial symbionts in marine sponges

Differential recycling of coral and algal dissolved organic matter via the sponge loop.
Sponges treat DOC from algae differently than DOC from corals

A Vicious Circle? Altered Carbon and Nutrient Cycling May Explain the Low Resilience of Caribbean Coral Reefs

Surviving in a Marine Desert The Sponge Loop Retains Resources Within Coral Reefs
Dissolved organic carbon and nitrogen are quickly processed by sponges and released back into the reef food web in hours as carbon and nitrogen rich detritus.

Natural Diet of Coral-Excavating Sponges Consists Mainly of Dissolved Organic Carbon (DOC)

The Role of Marine Sponges in Carbon and Nitrogen Cycles of COral Reefs and Nearshore Environments.

Microbially mediated nutrient cycles in marine sponges


Misc

Manual removal and urchins to contral algae

Aura-biomes are present in the water layer above coral reef benthic macro-organisms
 
OMG Tim, I'll be coming back to and rereading all of this many many times, thank you so much for the amount of work you put into sharing all that information. It will take me some processing!!!!

So, short answer, don't use a skimmer, don't carbon dose and don't grow algae. Do frequent water chagnes (20% - 30% monthly) as that's the only way to reduce stuff equally :) Adding a sump is beneficial, it adds more surface area for gas exchange, more water volume which should help with stability and if unlit it helps create a more diverse ecosystem.

This part is cracking me up because it seems like this is why my previous tank did so well. It's almost like I just got lucky. There was nearly zero filtration, just good water flow and weekly water changes of about 10%+ which I did because for one thing, I enjoyed tinkering with the tank, and on the other hand I felt like fresh salt was replenishing trace minerals the corals were absorbing. I had never used carbon or a skimmer, much less an algae reactor.

Now, one thing I was excited about in regards to all these new toys on the Reefer 425 was a perceived improvement in water clarity. I had assumed that my use of the reefmat and protein skimmer would do that. Now, I'm really starting to wonder. The reefmat itself can of course be used without carbon.

I truly have no problem removing the protein skimmer. My next struggle/lesson will be finding an effecient way to do 20-30 gallon water changes semi-regularly without making a mess of my living room :ROFLMAO:
 
And here's a huge data bomb. Most of the papers will have additional links if you need more rabbit holes to go down

One common theme I found among the videos was "I don't know", or "we don't know yet", or "we're studying this". I love that. You often meet so many people in this field, and other fields, who know exactly what they're talking about and forget that we don't know what we don't know. the amount of mystery that still exists is awesome to me. We aren't done discovering!
 
Couple side updates. Last night while I did need to clean the glass quite a bit (daily), it wasn't as bad as usual and the white sand for the first time since bringing back in the old live rock is actually white. the past week it's been pretty red/brown daily so I've mostly let things cycle through since fish and corals have seemed to thrive. I had continued dosing the seed I had mentioned earlier as well.

My hippo tang from Bali, gravitates to my pavona, also from Bali. I thought that was a pretty cute/neat nature sign. it seems to be healthy, and eats a little. I'd like to see it eat more, but I think it's aquainting itself with what my fish eat.

my orchid dotty back which was hidden on a rock I kept behind to see if the clownfish eggs would hatch, is absolutely huge. I think she ate 1000 clownfish fry. haha.

the inkbird controller came in from amazon and I got it set up last night. I think I need to turn my heaters UP beyond the target heat so that the inkbird can do its thing with turning them on and off.

I'm open to suggestions on heating range for the small reef tank. RIght now I'm targeting 77.5 to 78.5f
I do feel like when I've seen my tank get warmer, closer to 80F, my corals seemed pretty happy.
But I also have a cold house and checking my inkbird it right now reports me at 76.2f at 9am
 
I'm planning a water change this weekend, it's going to be a learning experience since this is a much larger tank and a little more complicated (while simultaneously more convenient in some ways?) I need to learn/find a good siphon solution both for filling the ATO tank because it's tucked away too much to pour into, and for heaving 5-10g+ of fresh salt water into the main tank. I'm looking at the Python systems. they're interesting if you're hooked right up to a faucet, but I'm not and all my salt is mixed by hand so I'm not sure of the best solution other than a harbor freight siphon pump.
 
Lastly, I'm shopping lighting solutions for inside the cabinet. there are so many options i'm not sure where to start! lol
 
I'm open to suggestions on heating range for the small reef tank. RIght now I'm targeting 77.5 to 78.5f
I do feel like when I've seen my tank get warmer, closer to 80F, my corals seemed pretty happy.
But I also have a cold house and checking my inkbird it right now reports me at 76.2f at 9am

I don't think I'm using the Inkbird correctly, or I need to move the temperature sensors. I am getting into that 77/78f range by middle of the day, then temp drops too fast and the past couple nights I have the alarm going off by 11pm letting me know I've dropped below 75.

I did pick up a new water pump, mixed up fresh salt in one of my new 5g buckets and completed one of the fastest and cleanest water changes I've yet had (LOL). all inhabitants and corals seem pretty dang happy so far.
 
Where are the heaters and the temp sensors located?

I'm not sure I like the setup, but one heater is in chamber 2 of 3 in the sump. The other heater is in the return of the main tank (was a suggestion by the LFS). The temp sensors are actually both in chamber 1 of 3 in the sump which was originally a short term solution I went with to get the inkbird setup and running. I'm definitely open to advice and modifications though!

In other news, I finally got myself a Flipper for the tank, and holy cow I seriously geeked out on the cleaning process. it was nice not being armpit deep in the water trying to clean the glass!

1734453050464.png
 
I'm not sure I understand what you mean by, "The other heater is in the return of the main tank." Do you mean the overflow?

I keep my temp probe (Apex) in the DT and my heaters are both in the sump. This helps ensure the temp in the DT is where I want it. Aside from having to add an additional heater when I added the 15 gallon fuge, I've had no issues maintaining a stable temp.
 
"The other heater is in the return of the main tank." Do you mean the overflow?

ah yes, my brain watched me typing and thought that isn't right... but click send anyways.

the inkbird has 2 temp probes, should be no issue for me to move one or both to the DT though, I can make that adjustment tonight.

But here is something about these old glass heaters that I've never been comfortable with... first off, putting them into a bowl of water just makes me feel weird. still after decades of fish, heaters kinda freak me out. second, they're longer than usual since I'm running 150 and 400w heaters in a much larger tank than I'm used to. if I put them both in the sump, they'll likely touch each other. should I be concerned?

Lastly, I do still have the protein skimmer in there. Tim said just turn it off, don't use it.... I'm thinking about taking that advice. I already decided to get rid of the algae reactor based on his comments above. But either way, jamming these heaters in the sump they're either going to be laying pretty much on eachother or the skimmer one way or another.... any concerns there?
 
I've never used an inkbird before so, I'm not really familiar with them. Since it has 2 probes, maybe put one in the DT and the other in the sump.

That said, as long as the water level in the overflow doesn't drop, I don't think you'll have an issue with the heater in there.

Glass heaters definitely need one to keep an eye on them. I've heard of instances where they've, "exploded." I've only had issues with the seals failing on them. I definitely prefer titanium heaters (but, if I'm honest, I'm currently running 2 glass and 1 titanium heater right now).
 
Since it has 2 probes, maybe put one in the DT and the other in the sump.
that seems like a good way to get averages, I'll give that a try.
I've only had issues with the seals failing on them
what happened when that occurred? was there an electrical leak into the water or just a crash in water temp? makes me think I should go get another 400w and just keep it new in its box as another emergency back up.

So I currently have my temp setting at a low of 78 and a high of 79. with alarms at 75f and 80.5f.
I *think* what has happened is the water reaches the high, then shuts off the heaters until it reaches the low, but by then I'm guessing the temp is dropping so rapidly that its hard for the heaters to immediately get the temperature back to the right spot again which is why my alarm goes off.

I have not had the temp drop so low as to damage fish or corals, but I'm sure there is a sweet spot in here where it stays more balanced. I think I had it at 77-78.5f before and had the alarm go off two nights in a row.

raising it to 78f on the low end, I think had everything kick on earlier to help avoid the extreme low.

Maybe I should adjust it so both the low and high temps are higher. I'm truly not certain what I think the appropriate high temp would be for the tank. I've always aimed for 78, but but saw no negatives when my water was 80f.
 
You can see it's a little low right now as it's cold in the house this morning. But the heaters have not had problems getting it up.

1000007029.png




1000007028.png
 
When I've had the seals fail, I found out pretty quickly by getting a little zap when putting my hand in the tank :ROFLMAO: It was never enough to trip the GFCI or the breaker and was only mildly uncomfortable.

As I mentioned, my Apex Temp probe is in the main tank and I have 2 heaters in the sump and 1 in the fuge. I have my heaters set for 77.5 - 80. My temp generally stays around 78. I don't have any temp alarms set because I usually glance at the Apex Fusion app several times a day.

Back in my early days in the hobby, we actually aimed for temperatures between 80 - 82. In fact, my most successful reef tank to date was kept between 80-82 and my Acros and Montis grew like crazy. I don't recall when or why we (as a hobby) decided to lower the target temperature but, I'm fuzzily recalling something about limiting algal growth with somewhat lower temps.
 
I'm fuzzily recalling something about limiting algal growth with somewhat lower temps.
yeah I was wondering if there was a correlation with bacteria or algae as well. I'm half tempted to go just a tiny bit warmer myself because I swear my corals really open up a lot more with that little bump up. I have a huge block of clove polyps and zoas that I plan to sell/trade in my old 10g tank temporarily and I realized that one was over 80f but everything looked really good so I kept it there as an experiement...
 
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