It has begun, My new 180 SPS build

I like the cabinet for the tank. i gotta say that the cables scare me as well. i am gathering that the cables wrap around the tank and secure to the wall. my concern would not be a tank tipping over during an earthquake, but rather the jerking motion of a quake and those itty bitty cables trying to keep the entire tank still. i think it will focus all of the energy on the corners, causing them to crush as the tank moves IMO, if the stand is bolted to the wall, it will keep the tank from coming off the stand. if you want to secure the tank to the stand, use 3M VHB Tape. this stuff rocks.
 
well the system is designed for the more common 5.0-6.0 quakes, I think bonding the tank to the stand and connecting the stand to the house would prove problematic. the tank rests on plywood which is not designed for horizontal torsion, it would probably tear a layer of plywood off given enough force. additionally the tank is not designed for the bottom pane to be connected to the stand. if the tank to stand connection were to fail and the stand to structure connection did not fail, that would be the worst passable scenario

I am considering a buffer in the connection from the cables to the wall. my current idea is a loop of nylon rope spanning eye lags in 2 wall studs. the nylon would break given enough force allowing the tank to slide before shattering and at more moderate amounts of force would draw the wall studs together allowing some give as well as nylon rope stretches. I think the value I need it how much force is required to break 1/2" glass with lateral force. then just select nylon line rated 10% under that value
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12143859#post12143859 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by wishntoboutside
mark did you just throw those rocks in your tank?
i would recommend precurring them prior. lots of dead stuff in them
Richard

thanks Richard, I did notice a bit more brown dusting on the glass, so I threw them in a brute with a powerhead and some water
 
we finished the doors and canopy Friday, I just got the photos uploaded from my phone. so, sorry about the poor quality.


when I arrived, Jeff had already built the doors and the glue was setting up

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once the glue set, I had to putty the holes router the edge detail and sand the doors smooth

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more sanding

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then we cut the edge molding from standard wood stock

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I missed a few photos, but here is the unfinished product, it is being stained professionally right now

canopy

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and the stand

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aw, that stand, it's nothing, it is fairly simple so long as you have the right tools, and materials, a few tricks, a lot of work space and someone that knows what they are doing to hold your hand every step of the way. I am painting the back of the tank right now and due to an overwhelming minority, in this recent poll I have decided to go with navy blue. I just wanted to be a bit different
 
there is no back on the canopy, or top for that matter, that is part of how I get away with 750 watts of halide with a 1/10th chiller that rarely runs :).. stand is being stained / finished right now so I can not take photos, but it is a simple detail, all I wanted was a box with big doors to put my tank on, Jeff added all the details
 
look what showed up at my house today

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earlier today, I drained my 100, moved it a few feet from the wall and made room for the new tank... navy blue back looks real nice

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Looks like youre off to a great start!! Did you fill your 100 back up with water in that pic???
 
latest update

latest update

I put my stand pipe in today, I did something tricky with it

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looks a little low?? well it is adjustable :) also, a pretty good shot of the Navy Blue back

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I also built my new sump today from a 40 breeder I got from some pet big box store. then I went to the local glass shop and had them cut me some baffles.

left to right:
first chamber is for the return pump

next chamber is for carbon etc..

next chamber is a mini-fuge

and all the way to the right is the skimmer section

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and another full tank shot

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