Ivan's terribly slow 225 build

I wasn't planning to start a build thread until I was much closer to actually finishing the build. However, I think it will be helpful to have a thread where I can document things as I go. Hopefully, some of you will enjoy it as well.

As the title suggests, this is going to be a very, very slow build (painfully slow). Much of that is driven by my schedule. My kids are involved in a lot of activities from spring through early fall, and I try to get in some of my other hobbies while the weather is nice. That leave late fall and winter to get all of the lingering home improvement/repair jobs done and to work on the tank. That being the case, I probably won't put water in it until this time next year. :(

A little background - growing up we always had a fish tank in our house. They were freshwater setups of increasing size and it was my job to take care of them. Those poor fish. I had no idea what I was doing, and neither did anyone in my family. At one point, I decided it would be good to take everything out of the tank and "thoroughly clean" it once a year. A thorough cleaning consisted of dragging everything to the back yard and spraying it with the hose. Essentially, I cycled my tank (and the poor fish) every year. The tank was surprisingly successful and most of my fish lived many years until I was in high school and we gave the tank away (7+ years). I always wanted to have a big, saltwater fish tank and vowed that it would happen when I had a home of my own. Fast forward many years, and I'm finally getting around to putting the big tank in place. For the past year I've been keeping a 20 gallon nano. The nano is great and has taught me a lot. It's also allowed me to play with different equipment, learn which features were important to me, and refine my plans.

This tank will be installed in my basement, which I finished about 10 years ago. Because I'm adding a small fish room, that is going to complicate this build somewhat. When everything is complete, it should look something like this.
basement2.jpg
The plan has changed some since I made that figure, but I'm too lazy to update the sketch. The tank was made by customaquariums.com. The price was great, but communications not so much. The tank dimensions are 72"x30"x24" (LxDxH). The front is 5/8" low iron glass. The bottom and back are both regular 5/8" glass and both sides are 1/2" glass. I had them drill the back for the overflow, and plan to run a beananimal setup. Communications with them started out rough. For some reason I wasn't getting the emails they were sending. They quickly got everything sorted out and we were up and running (I thought). They were very helpful and stepped through everything with me. I'm sure I wasn't the perfect customer since I took the time to double check everything and asked what felt like a million questions. I ordered the tank in mid-October and started to get serious about my planning. Tank delivery was promised to occur by January 1st, but I figured it would be a week or two after that. In late December, I emailed them. They were getting hit with a pretty bad storm and promised to get back to me in the new year, which didn't happen. I emailed them a couple of times but didn't get a response. Then one day, the trucking company called and said they had a delivery for me. :eek2: They wanted to know if I wanted it delivered tomorrow or the next day (a Friday). I said Friday, since I didn't have anyone lined up to help unload it yet. I went home and immediately started recruiting, and watching the weather. Unfortunately, the tank wasn't the only thing scheduled to arrive on Friday. Winter Storm Jonas was supposed to hit my area at some point during the weekend.

Friday finally came and I was NERVOUS. The weather forecast was updated and the snow was supposed to start falling around 4:00PM. The tank was scheduled for delivery between 4 and 6. I called the dispatcher for the trucking company on Friday morning and confirmed that the delivery was still going to happen. She confirmed everything was on schedule and asked if a big trailer could get to my house. I said No, and she said it wouldn't be a problem. I asked if the trailer had a lift gate, and she said that it would. I was happy, sent a text to my helpers to let them know it was a go, and left work early so that I could go home and prepare. It started snowing around 2:00, so I shoveled my driveway. The tank was going to be stored in my garage, which is at the rear of my house. There's a slight slope to the driveway so I planned to keep it shoveled to make sure we didn't slip when carrying the tank. The snow hadn't stopped and by 3:30 I (and my helpers) was really nervous. I called the dispatcher and she promised to have the driver call when he was on his way. Around 4:00 I went out to shovel again. This time I also used the Prestone Driveway Heat I had purchased for dosing the nano tank. About 4:30 the driver called. He was only about 10 minutes away and said he would be at my house soon. I asked if he had a lift gate and he said no. Apparently, the dispatcher told him I would have a bunch of guys available to unload the tank. He said he had a 42' trailer and asked the best route to my house. I told him it was going to be tight with a trailer that big. Apparently, the dispatcher left that detail out too. Regardless, he promised to be there soon. I sent a text to my helpers asking them to get to my house ASAP. Ten minutes later the driver called back to say he wasn't going to make it. The road conditions were bad and getting worse and he didn't think he could get up the hills to my house. Since I had five helpers heading to my house and had already burned a half day of vacation, I REALLY didn't want to put the delivery off until Monday. We agreed to meet in the parking lot of a nearby McDonalds. I grabbed one of my neighbors and we headed out in my truck.

At the McDonalds, I popped the top of the crate off and did the best inspection of the tank that I could. Hopefully, that's the last aquarium I ever inspect in the back of a trailer in a McDonalds parking lot. As we were getting ready to transfer the tank to my truck, the driver informs us that he has a bad back from a recent injury and can't lift anything. I look at my friend and just smile. Somehow, the three of us managed to get the tank into my truck without completely destroying it. I signed the bill of lading and we were on our way. I pulled into my snow-covered driveway and around to the garage. At least with the tank in the truck we would have to carry it far. I backed up to the garage door and six of us transferred it to the ground. At that point I could finally breathe again. We ended up getting 9-10 inches of snow that night, but I didn't care - I had my dream tank sitting in the garage.

RC2.jpg

Wow, didn't expect this post to be this long. That's enough for tonight. I'll get into plans for this setup tomorrow.

-Ivan



 
So far, these are my plans for this tank.

Equipment I have:
Tank
75 gallon that will become a sump
DIY stand built using RocketEngineer's design
(2) Gyre XF150 w/Icecap modules
Apex w/PM2 salinity module and 2 EB8's
(2) 3/4" Sea Swirls for the returns
BRS 6 stage 150gpd RO/DI w/booster pump
(2) BRS single reactors - one for carbon and one for GFO
Tunze Osmolator 3155 ATO
Tropic Eden Reef Flakes (60 lbs)
(2) Eheim Jager 300 watt heaters
Panasonic FV-11VQ5 exhaust fan w/humidistat

Things I plan to buy:
Overflow - currently thinking toothless 36"x2"x6" for the inner box and 24"x6"x7" for the outer box with a beananimal drain. There is an acrylic fabricator not too far from me, so I can customize the dimensions. I plan to put the sea swirls in the back corners of the tank, so a true coast to coast won't work.

Lights - Ecotech Radion Pros (3) - I haven't bought these yet just in case they come out with a newer model this year.

Skimmer - Lifereef SVS 3-30 although I could probably go a little taller. My stand is 45" so I'll have plenty of room underneath.

Dry rock - 100lbs from reefrocks.net. I used their rock in my 20 gallon tank and was very happy with it. I didn't cure it, just stuck it in the tank. I've not had any issues with phosphates or anything else that I can detect leaching from the rock.

Return pump - probably a Vectra, but I'm waiting to see how well they perform once folks have some more run time on them.

About 1,000,000 other things. I'm sure you're all aware of the little things that add up.

Any opinions/suggestions on my equipment choices would be greatly appreciated.

I'm currently doing some demo work in my basement (removing carpet, etc.) so that I can put the new room in. My daughter wasn't very impressed with my work and wrote these words of encouragement on her whiteboard.
sign.jpg

-Ivan
 
Ivan,
Very Cool!

What do you think of the quality of the tank? I'm looking at them for my new tank and wanted to have an opinion based on your new delivery.
 
Ivan,
Very Cool!

What do you think of the quality of the tank? I'm looking at them for my new tank and wanted to have an opinion based on your new delivery.

Thank you. Since this is my first really large tank, I'm probably not the best judge of quality but I am happy with it. I only took one picture of the silicone and didn't take any of the rim or the holes they drilled. I'll probably take some more pictures when I uncrate it again and put it on the stand.

-Ivan

IMG_4855 - Copy.jpg
 
Ivan,
What is the thickness of the frame? I am looking at building my stand and want to make sure that I don't cut my pieces short.
 
So, I made a little progress but then had to travel for work. This is how the corner of my basement looked prior to starting this adventure.

2rZfHFD.jpg


Behind the refrigerator is a small unfinished section where the water supply enters the house. The is a floor drain there (it's partially covered by the wall). My RODI system was hooked up in that area, so it had to be removed first. The outline of the tank/fish room is on the floor in blue painters tape. The door to the fish room will be near the Lego display.

Removing the walls was pretty easy. My daughter actually helped out, which was a pleasant surprise. The ceiling had to be removed because a corner of the new wall would interfere with an existing light fixture. So, that fixture will be moved to a different spot in the room. The recessed light you see will stay, but will get it's own switch (it is currently tied in with 5 others). I'll be adding an additional light fixture or two to the fish room. I'm also going to be adding an exhaust fan and humidistat. With all of that work, it just made sense to remove the ceiling and make my life easier. While the ceiling was removable, it was not fun. Each "board" is held in place with small clips that screw into every floor joist, like this:

EQWfJ1A.jpg


When installing, you can't skip a joist or the board will sag and look bad (don't ask me how I know this). Because of the way the boards are staggered, I ended up removing at least 1/4 of my ceiling and pretty much filled up a gallon bag with the little clips.

au7GDsC.jpg


Luckily, I was smart enough to number the boards as I took them down. Otherwise, I would be playing the world's largest ceiling jigsaw puzzle when it cam time to put everything back up. :headwalls:

The floor has not been so straight-forward. The plan is to use Valspar garage floor paint to cover the concrete. I'm not really worried about looks since I'll probably be the only one in the fish room. Also, when everything is finished there won't be a lot of floor visible. I did want to cover it with something just to protect it, make clean-up easier, etc. After purchasing the garage floor paint, I decided to do some research and read some reviews (backwards, I know :facepalm:). Based on the reviews, it's very important to get everything off of the concrete and get a good etch.

So after measuring everything about 40 times and sliding the stand in place for a final check, I started cutting the carpet. Unfortunately, I discovered that there was quite a bit of carpet glue remaining on the concrete. Scraping it didn't get it all and it was soon clear that I was heading back to the hardware store for something to dissolve the glue. I walked around aimlessly for a few minutes and then asked the guy in the paint department for his best stuff for removing glue from concrete. He sold me this stuff.

Rc7Ocn6.jpg


I'm not a big safety equipment guy. I tend to take my chances and see how things play out, but just out of curiosity I read the safety recommendations on the can. They were about what I was expecting: gloves, rubber boots, safety glasses, etc. I figured I didn't need that stuff, payed the clerk, headed home, and changed into my safety gear (old shorts and a T-shirt).

The directions say you need to mop the floor with plenty of water after using the glue remover. In a garage that wouldn't be a problem, but in my now partially finished basement dumping a bunch of water on the floor and trying to mop it up before it soaks into the carpet didn't seem like the way to go. So, being an engineer I decided to build a dam out of plastic sheeting and duct tape.

tDgJLpC.jpg


With that problem solved I opened the glue remover and got to work. It's pretty simple to use, just dump some on the floor, cover it with plastic sheeting, spread it around evenly, and wait 15-30 minutes while it does its magic. After reading ReefCentral for 20 minutes I decided to get to work. I carefully removed the plastic sheeting, grabbed a drywall trowel and started scraping. To my surprise, the glue was coming up with no problems. Then it happened. Somehow, I managed to get a little bit of the glue remover on my wrist. Almost instantly it felt like my skin was melting off of my body. Luckily, I had a mop bucket full of water nearby. I plunged my hand into the bucket and the pain instantly got worse. So now, I've got both arms in the mop bucket up to my elbow and I'm scrubbing my skin like nobody's business trying to get the pain to stop and trying to be quiet so that my wife and kids don't come down to investigate and "help". After what seemed like an eternity (but was probably only a couple of seconds) the pain went away. At that point, I decided some safety gear was probably in order. Being me, I don't have a lot of safety stuff laying around. I do however have some latex gloves that I wear when I have to stick my hands in my tank. I figured those would work out fine. I grabbed a plastic cup and some paper towels so that I could keep my trowel clean and prevent the glue remover from dripping on me. With that, I went back to work feeling quite safe.

After completing a couple more small sections, it was time to move things around so that I could access the floor. When I went to move my plastic cup I learned that the glue removed had dissolved it and melted it onto the concrete floor. I grabbed my trowel and scooped the toxic mix into a nearby trash bag. Eventually, I could see where it was eating through the trash bag so I transferred the bag to my garage. Mopping the floor (I actually used a large sponge) after completing each section of floor usually ended up causing some of the glue remover to find its way into my gloves. After each instance, I would be elbow deep in the mop bucket and ripping the gloves off of my hands. This pattern of glue remover eating cup and trash bag, glue remover working its way into my glove(s), dragging the trash bag into the garage before the glue remove could melt it to the floor occurred numerous times throughout the night. After using the glue remover on each section twice, I figured it was as good as it was going to get. Unfortunately, some of the glue remained behind.

hMoVzvg.jpg


Mostly, it was in the pores of the concrete and I doubt the glue remove was ever going to get it. Also, I was tired of my skin burning so I called it a night. I jumped in the shower before bed and quickly discovered all of the spots where glue remover was still on my skin. If you ever use this stuff, please take it seriously and wear whatever safety equipment you think is necessary.

Since the glue remover didn't quite get everything, I decided to take a more hands-on approach.

asoAIxK.jpg


This is what it looked like before I started working earlier this evening.

93tEKQP.jpg


I slipped this blade into my angle grinder and quickly got to work. After about 5 seconds of grinding, I realized this was not the most elegant solution. During that 5 seconds, I had filled my basement with concrete dust. Inspecting the nano tank revealed a layer of dust floating on the surface. I covered it with a blanket and went upstairs looking for a solution. I found my answer in my bedroom. I pulled the sheets off of my bed, grabbed some painter's tape and went to work building a semi-dust proof enclosure. This helped but didn't catch everything. Running a shop vac just seemed to add noise. Unfortunately, my kids went to bed before I finished grinding so I'll have to resume efforts tomorrow.

-Ivan
 
So far, these are my plans for this tank.

Equipment I have:
Tank
75 gallon that will become a sump
DIY stand built using RocketEngineer's design
(2) Gyre XF150 w/Icecap modules
Apex w/PM2 salinity module and 2 EB8's
(2) 3/4" Sea Swirls for the returns
BRS 6 stage 150gpd RO/DI w/booster pump
(2) BRS single reactors - one for carbon and one for GFO
Tunze Osmolator 3155 ATO
Tropic Eden Reef Flakes (60 lbs)
(2) Eheim Jager 300 watt heaters
Panasonic FV-11VQ5 exhaust fan w/humidistat


Things I plan to buy:
Overflow - currently thinking toothless 36"x2"x6" for the inner box and 24"x6"x7" for the outer box with a beananimal drain. There is an acrylic fabricator not too far from me, so I can customize the dimensions. I plan to put the sea swirls in the back corners of the tank, so a true coast to coast won't work.

Lights - Ecotech Radion Pros (3) - I haven't bought these yet just in case they come out with a newer model this year.

Skimmer - Lifereef SVS 3-30 although I could probably go a little taller. My stand is 45" so I'll have plenty of room underneath.

Dry rock - 100lbs from reefrocks.net. I used their rock in my 20 gallon tank and was very happy with it. I didn't cure it, just stuck it in the tank. I've not had any issues with phosphates or anything else that I can detect leaching from the rock.

Return pump - probably a Vectra, but I'm waiting to see how well they perform once folks have some more run time on them.

About 1,000,000 other things. I'm sure you're all aware of the little things that add up.

Any opinions/suggestions on my equipment choices would be greatly appreciated.

I'm currently doing some demo work in my basement (removing carpet, etc.) so that I can put the new room in. My daughter wasn't very impressed with my work and wrote these words of encouragement on her whiteboard.
View attachment 342389

-Ivan


I have a 240 long.. one thing i'd suggest changing is your reactors.. that is if they are BRS standard... they are rated for somewhere around 120g so you'll need to upgrade to the jumbo for maximum effect.. I run the BRS dual reactor but I dont use carbon.. I run GFO and Seachem denitrator instead... I also have a large bag of denitrator in my sump to reach recommended amount. my sump is 75g, reef octopus SSS5000int skimmer, coralife 12x 36watt UV powered by mag5, my return is a mag18 (waiting for more reviews on the vectra before I upgrade) 1 maxspect gyre xf150 (thinking of adding a second) 2 hydor magnum 1800. my system is a fowlr with 300lbs of lr and a 3" sand bed.. I know how the want makes us feel like we want to get this up and running but going slow helps avoid mistakes and actually gets things how you want them.. im following along for the build!
 
im also thinking of adding a second BRS dual reactor running from the same pump (until I change to a manifold) 4 radion xr30's to come later.. currently setting up my apex controller
 
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I have a 240 long.. one thing i'd suggest changing is your reactors.. that is if they are BRS standard... they are rated for somewhere around 120g so you'll need to upgrade to the jumbo for maximum effect.. I run the BRS dual reactor but I dont use carbon.. I run GFO and Seachem denitrator instead... I also have a large bag of denitrator in my sump to reach recommended amount. my sump is 75g, reef octopus SSS5000int skimmer, coralife 12x 36watt UV powered by mag5, my return is a mag18 (waiting for more reviews on the vectra before I upgrade) 1 maxspect gyre xf150 (thinking of adding a second) 2 hydor magnum 1800. my system is a fowlr with 300lbs of lr and a 3" sand bed.. I know how the want makes us feel like we want to get this up and running but going slow helps avoid mistakes and actually gets things how you want them.. im following along for the build!

Thanks for the input. Yes, they are the standard reactors. Where did you find the 120g rating? I searched all over the BRS site and didn't see it. According to the BRS calculator, a 255 gallon system requires 2 cups of high capacity GFO which is the max for a standard reactor so I'm surprised you've found it to not be enough. I'll make sure to leave enough space to add a couple more reactors if/when needed.

-Ivan
 
So, grinding concrete creates a TON of dust. But all in all, I was happy with the results.

TJF3dwA.jpg


I didn't bother to get every remaining speck of glue. I just wanted to get the majority of it. The next step was to etch the surface. I failed to read the directions completely and missed the step where you were supposed to mix the fluid with water. So, I ended up with a streaky floor.

1iSH5iK.jpg


The etch was probably good enough even in the light areas. I bought another gallon of cleaner/etcher tonight just to be sure. I'll let it dry overnight and start with the paint tomorrow.

-Ivan
 
I hope you are wearing a n-95 rated mask when you're grinding your concrete. The silica in concrete is no joke in your lungs. Your body can't get rid of it. Also, they make a wheel that is used for grinding concrete, you have one designed to cut. Please be careful about putting pressure on the edge, as it isn't designed to flex.

The correct wheel is something like this: http://m.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-4-in-Double-Row-Diamond-Cup-Wheel-HD-AWD40/202884364

Not trying to beat you up, just don't want anyone to get hurt.

Loving the hands on, and the build.
 
I hope you are wearing a n-95 rated mask when you're grinding your concrete. The silica in concrete is no joke in your lungs. Your body can't get rid of it. Also, they make a wheel that is used for grinding concrete, you have one designed to cut. Please be careful about putting pressure on the edge, as it isn't designed to flex.

The correct wheel is something like this: http://m.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-4-in-Double-Row-Diamond-Cup-Wheel-HD-AWD40/202884364

Not trying to beat you up, just don't want anyone to get hurt.

Loving the hands on, and the build.

Very good points that I should have made in my post. Concrete dust is harmful and not something you should be breathing. Drive by a construction site where they are cutting concrete and you'll see them wearing masks, even in the summer. They also typically use a wet saw, which cuts down on some of the dust. They aren't wearing a mask to look cool (they're usually pretty uncomfortable). If they take the proper precautions, everyone doing concrete work at home should too.

Although I'm not the safest person on the planet, I take some things seriously. When I participate in my noisy hobbies I always wear hearing protection and usually double up. I wear safety glasses frequently (for a variety of activities) to protect my eyes. Some things can't be replaced, so I try to protect them. For me, those are things like the ability to hear, see, and breathe. After my initial grinding effort, I ran a shop vac and another vacuum to keep the airborne dust to a minimum. I was probably grinding for less than five minutes and I cleaned the shop vac filter 3 times. It quickly clogged with the fine dust and was ineffective after just a couple of minutes. If anyone is following along and thinking about doing some concrete or other hands-on work, please make sure you use the proper safety gear.

I also didn't use the proper tool for the job, but I knew that going into it. I bought the cutting wheel because it was on sale for $8, rather than paying $40+ for the proper tool. I was being cheap. Since I was doing so little grinding, I didn't see the point of paying more for a tool that I'll (hopefully) never need to use again. I didn't put any pressure on the wheel because I didn't want to cut into my slab. Instead, I was just trying to skim the surface and remove the majority of the glue.

Thanks again for the heads-up.
-Ivan
 
Finally, the floor is painted and everything is fully dried. Literally watching paint dry was like torture. I gave it two coats of paint and two coats of the clear coat. I also mixed a whole container of grit in with the clear coat. Overall, I'm happy with the results. It's not slick and I won't have to worry about minor spills.

e1TGjcJ.jpg


Up next - framing the walls. I'm still debating how to work around the water meter. It would look best if I built a box around it with a small access panel, but I'm not sure I want to go that route. I need to have access to the water line, since that is where I will be connecting my RODI filters (there is a hose spigot just to the right of the meter). Also, we turn the water supply off when we travel. So it would be more convenient if I just framed around the water line/meter and put the drywall behind it. That would also maximize the amount of space I'd have in my little room, but I'm not sure it would add any useable space. I guess I'll make that decision tomorrow...
 
OK, question for everyone. I'm considering putting the tank/stand in place before I frame the wall that will be in front of the tank. Obviously, this will make it much easier to get the tank in place and will reduce the risk of an accident. In most of the build threads I've seen, the walls are built first and the tank put in place afterward. Does one approach have a significant benefit over the other?

Thanks,
Ivan
 
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