iwaki 40rlxt problem

[wwwatcher1]

I finally finished the plumbing on my tank for the pump that I bought from MD.

But I have this surging problem.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=387177

any ideas how to fix it?

 

[MarineDepot]

Hi wwwatcher1,

Thanks for your email. It does sound like the problem has something to do with your return and drain rates. It would help if we can see a diagram of how the sump is setup.

I would recommend taking a look at your Durso overflow box and see if it is also surging. If so, there may be too much or too little air getting in to the standpipe; causing the water level the over overflow to fluctuate. If this is happening, it will in turn cause the water level in the sump to fluctuate as well. Are there baffles in the sump? If there are, the change in water level in the sump would be exaggerated.

As others have mentioned on the board, ball valves and check valves should both be installed on the outlet of the pump and not the inlet. You will definitely want to change this around. The diverting tee is also a very good idea. If you will be installing the tee, you will want to install the check valve after the tee.

The RLXT is the correct model for you. The RLT is usually for protein skimmers, or pumping from a basement. Also, I am not certain how big of a difference it will make, but it would probably be better for the pump to be mounted flat. It needed, you can use a short length of vinyl tubing to compensate for the angle.
Please do not hesitate to contact us if you have any further questions.
Sincerely,
Joseph
Marine Depot Customer Service
www.marinedepot.com
714-385-0080

 

[wwwatcher1]

here are some pictures and I hope you see the setup

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=3035644#post3035644

the durso overflow connects to a pipe on the top of the sump but not to the pipe for the new pump

 

[MarineDepot]

Hi wwwatcher1,

Reading the other thread, it looks like there are some excellent advices given.

Looking at those pictures, a couple of things were a little confusing. First, in the sump outflow picture (6:13pm), I assume that the bulkhead on the left goes to the Iwaki pump. However, what I don't quite understand is why there are additional fittings on there and where the vinyl tubing leads to. It would be a good idea to remove all of those parts and simply have just the bulkhead there (with just a strainer attached). The outside piping from the bulkhead going to the intake of the pump already has quite a bit of restrictions (due to the elbows and the piping), so you will definitely want to minimize the restriction at bulkhead as much as possible.

On the drain pipe from the overflow box going to the sump, are you using vinyl tubing at both ends? If so, you will want to change that. Hosebarbs and vinyl tubing should not be use on the drain as they reduce the diameter of the pipe significantly and will restrict the flow quite a bit. You will want to remove the hosebarbs and vinyl tubing and re-plumb it with just PVC pipes and fittings. You will also want to make sure that the drain pipe is always heading in downwards direction and never heading upwards (in the 'pipe from Durso in to sump' picture; 6:20pm).

Also, I noticed that there are two pipes in the overflow box. What is the 2nd (smaller) pipe being used for?

Checking the above along with installing that tee should solve the surging problem. Give it a try and let us know how it works out.

Sincerely,
Joseph
Marine Depot Customer Service
www.marinedepot.com
714-385-0080

 

[wwwatcher1]

The tubing you see really close to bulkhead was a quick fix to get something running while I figured out what I did wrong. I connected it to my 720 gph pump and it worked great.

The durso pipe is PVC going to another pipe. I believe it is 2" pipe. The pipe extendes past the baffles all the way to right of the tank. Picture of the pipe is shown but not too clear. I remove the durso last night and will build another with a larger opening.

The second pipe is for overflow from the overflow which thank God, was used very well in the last couple of nights. I have seen folks use it as a second intake into there tank.

The other vinyl tubing is because my skimmer requires a gravity feed water so that was my solution from my overflow pipe.

I have built what they told me on the posts and it worked great. O will post pictures shortly. Thanks for your help.

I may purchase a lower gph pump. what do you recommend? I want about 1000 gph with low wattage (cut energy cost) and of course very very quiet.

 

[MarineDepot]

Hi wwwatcher1,

I am glad to hear that things are working out. The larger Durso pipe should help quite a bit with the flow rates.

If you are looking for a slower pump, I would recommend the Iwaki 30RLXT: which will give you 960GPH at 4'. It is noticeably quieter than the 40 as it is not fan cooled. As it is an Iwaki, it should provide years of trouble-free service. The inlet and outlets of the 30RLXT is 1ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ so the switch-over should be fairly easy.

Please let us know if you have any further questions.

Sincerely,
Joseph
Marine Depot Customer Service
www.marinedepot.com

 

[wwwatcher1]

any difference in sound db levels between the japanese vs american 30RLXT?

 

[MarineDepot]

Hi wwwatcher1,

There is a small difference, with the Japanese motor pump being quieter. However, either will be quieter than a 40 as the 30's are not fan cooled.

Please let us know if you have any further questions.

Sincerely,
Joseph
Marine Depot Customer Service
www.marinedepot.com
714-385-0080

 

[NoMoJoOnJoJo]

Just browsing a search of Iwaki pumps........exactly how much noise will the 40 make. I am looking to run a PM XL skimmer with the md40rlt. Who makes a pump (for return & closed loop) as quiet as the CSL T1-4 but with little or no heat transfer. Thanks in advance.

Jeff