JapanReef - 450 gallon In-Wall system
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
The battle against Phosphate is going to be my next major task. I hooked up Phosban reactors lke 18 months ago and then promptly forgot about them. Changing them out is one of my least favourite tasks in this hobby. Just did a reading and my phosphate is around 1.5 to 2 - pretty bad (if this kit is right). Nitrates are apparently 0 (again, if the kit is right). Got that new RODI unit sometime in 2007. I changed out the 4 bottom filters but I'm still reading 0.50 on the TDS meter. The large o-rings on 2 of the cartridges don't fit that well and there was no way to tell which side was up so I just stuffed them in. So don't know if the high TDS reading is due to that or I need to change out the top two filter cartridge things. The unit is a SpectraPure and of course since I changed out the filters I have lost the instruction manual. 
Looks like I'll have to buy yet another unit. This kind of thing really does my nut in.
Looks like I'll have to buy yet another unit. This kind of thing really does my nut in.
Bax
Premium Member
On the RO unit, contact Spectrapure, very good customer service IME with them.
I hate to tell you, but your PO4 is probably much higher then you are seeing on the test. Change your reactors and place them on line one at a time a couple of week apart. Too much GFO too fast may not be too too good too soon! Be patient, tune up you maintenace again, and your tank will be back in line quick enough!
If you run carbon, I'd say the same thing there, change it out over a couple of weeks, not all at once.
I hate to tell you, but your PO4 is probably much higher then you are seeing on the test. Change your reactors and place them on line one at a time a couple of week apart. Too much GFO too fast may not be too too good too soon! Be patient, tune up you maintenace again, and your tank will be back in line quick enough!
If you run carbon, I'd say the same thing there, change it out over a couple of weeks, not all at once.
I just wrote this to MarineDepot:
Or maybe my TDS meter is funky. Reads 60 on tap water and 50 on this RODI. Is there any point wasting water on RODI at this stage? I bought the extra filters/cartridges for this very reason and they ain't working. So pretty ****ed off.
Or maybe my TDS meter is funky. Reads 60 on tap water and 50 on this RODI. Is there any point wasting water on RODI at this stage? I bought the extra filters/cartridges for this very reason and they ain't working. So pretty ****ed off.
melev
Well-known member
Wow - take a breath for a second. You barely resurrected this thread two weeks ago (at the most) and you've gone full-tilt the other way. If this was a pinball game, the flippers would be locked down and the ball rolling into the gutter. Game over.
Let's talk about your RO/DI system for a bit. The age of the unit could be a factor, but really it comes down to usage. Do you use it every day, a couple of times a week, or monthly? I don't remember your reservoir system.
The three filters under the main unit are typically sediment, carbon, carbon. Their job is to trap the stuff over 5-10 microns in size, and the remove chlorine from the water so the membrane won't be damaged. They should be replaced every six months like clockwork. I make about 250g of RO/DI water a month, so I change out mine every five months. Those filters will not affect the TDS of the water at all. They are the 'prefilter' set.
The membrane or membranes are your workhorse. It (or they) should remove 92 - 98% of the TDS in the water. If the tap water is 100 TDS, the RO water should be 2 - 8 TDS (depending on the type of membrane). The DI resin will remove the last of the TDS, polishing it clean.
DI resin must remain moist. If your filters are 18 months old, sitting on a shelf and not sealed, they could be useless at this point. When testing TDS, you should run the system for at least 60 seconds before you take a water sample. I use a handheld meter, and collect a sample in a clean dry cup, preferably something disposable like a sytrofoam coffee cup. Put the meter in, and take a measurement. Testing before the DI and then again after the DI section is the best way to know how the system is working. The DI resin lasts me about five months as well, because the TDS going into mine is 6. Once the number starts to get between 3 - 7, I usually swap it out.
Do NOT test the water in your reservoir, because the number is almost always wrong. Over time, the barrel/container gets dirty and your pure water suddenly had lots of TDS. You can't see it, nore can you feel it on the pumps, tubing, or inside the container. However, if you clean it with 10:1 (water:bleach), rinse it, wipe it down well, let it air out for 24 hours, and then put it back into use, you'll have a clean vessel worth using again.
It is best to run your RO/DI system at least weekly, and ideally it should all be run at once rather than a few gallons each day. They work better when they run a long time instead of short bursts. Mine is turned on twice a week, and I make around 16-17g of water each time.
Lastly, have you measure the pure water to waste water ratio yet? Is it 4:1? (4 liters dirty to 1 liter pure)
Btw, you said it was 0.50 TDS. Does your meter really have a decimal? So it is .5, less than 1 TDS? If so, this entire conversation is moot. :lol:
Whoops. 
Not sure what I did but this was a faulty reading. I just tested it and I'm getting 0 to 1 TDS.
Maybe I didn't let it run long enough or maybe I tested it too soon after changing out the filters. Also, you're right, there's no decimal point (lol). So tap water is reading 60. Looks like I'm all good.
I run the RODI once every two weeks normally (maybe 10 days) and fill 50 gallons. This 50g tank is connected to a 20 gallon container which contains the Tunze Osmolator. When the level in the 20g gets low I hit a switch and a powerhead pumps RODI from the 50g in to it. So I'm not using the system alot. Then I do a monthly 50g water change - so it's making 150-200g a month.
Seems to be a 6-Stage unit? Has two white filters, then goes into two membranes on the top and then two DI cartridges. The spare filters/cartridges remained sealed for the 18 months.
So change the first two sediment/carbon cartridges every 6 months - check. How about the DI cartridges?
Just readt your post about Phosbuster Pro (Caribsea) and Phosphate Control (Blue Life USA). I had no idea that there was an additive that you could add that would remove phosphate overnight. Is this a new thing? Is GFO in effect dead now? Man, if I could never have to change out Phosban I would be a happy chappy.
I changed one out yesterday, going to do the other today. By the way can you run activated carbon in these Two Little Fishes reactors? If I could use one of those phospate removal products and run carbon in the phosphate reactors I'd be well happy.
I think Brains are very sensitive to Phosphate. I had another years ago that would never open and this one I got with the LR isn't opening either.
Not sure what I did but this was a faulty reading. I just tested it and I'm getting 0 to 1 TDS.
Maybe I didn't let it run long enough or maybe I tested it too soon after changing out the filters. Also, you're right, there's no decimal point (lol). So tap water is reading 60. Looks like I'm all good.
I run the RODI once every two weeks normally (maybe 10 days) and fill 50 gallons. This 50g tank is connected to a 20 gallon container which contains the Tunze Osmolator. When the level in the 20g gets low I hit a switch and a powerhead pumps RODI from the 50g in to it. So I'm not using the system alot. Then I do a monthly 50g water change - so it's making 150-200g a month.
Seems to be a 6-Stage unit? Has two white filters, then goes into two membranes on the top and then two DI cartridges. The spare filters/cartridges remained sealed for the 18 months.
So change the first two sediment/carbon cartridges every 6 months - check. How about the DI cartridges?
Just readt your post about Phosbuster Pro (Caribsea) and Phosphate Control (Blue Life USA). I had no idea that there was an additive that you could add that would remove phosphate overnight. Is this a new thing? Is GFO in effect dead now? Man, if I could never have to change out Phosban I would be a happy chappy.
I changed one out yesterday, going to do the other today. By the way can you run activated carbon in these Two Little Fishes reactors? If I could use one of those phospate removal products and run carbon in the phosphate reactors I'd be well happy.
I think Brains are very sensitive to Phosphate. I had another years ago that would never open and this one I got with the LR isn't opening either.
melev
Well-known member
Please be sure to send a follow up email to the company you grumbled at yesterday. I'm sure they'd appreciate it.
The reason it is good to run the RO/DI system once a week is to avoid stagnation issues within the housings. Can you take a picture of the system?
DI gets spent at a different rate, like I explained above. When you see the number (TDS) rising, that is when it is time to replace it (or them).
I've not had much luck with GFO. I tried it, and ran it for a long time, but it didn't seem to help my tank. So I've opted to use these liquid solutions instead. I've been using them for the past two to three years.
I do use one Phosban Reactor to run fresh GAC, which is changed weekly or biweekly, depending how busy I am.
The reason it is good to run the RO/DI system once a week is to avoid stagnation issues within the housings. Can you take a picture of the system?
DI gets spent at a different rate, like I explained above. When you see the number (TDS) rising, that is when it is time to replace it (or them).
I've not had much luck with GFO. I tried it, and ran it for a long time, but it didn't seem to help my tank. So I've opted to use these liquid solutions instead. I've been using them for the past two to three years.
I do use one Phosban Reactor to run fresh GAC, which is changed weekly or biweekly, depending how busy I am.
Already emailed MarineDepot, no worries.
This is the RODI system:
http://www.spectrapure.com/manuals/SP2000.pdf
There are "Upgrade Kits" to the new MaxCap line which I'll have to get at some point.
This is the RODI system:
http://www.spectrapure.com/manuals/SP2000.pdf
There are "Upgrade Kits" to the new MaxCap line which I'll have to get at some point.
jnarowe
New member
Since you purchased a SpectraPure, why don't you use their superb customer support? They are one of the best in the business, and Scott really knows water. He is very helpful. You don't need the MaxCap system with just 60 TDS.
What I do is measure TDS coming out of the membrane, typically 1 after the initial startup, and after the first resin filter. Then I have a second resin filter to make sure. I use color changing resin but keep a close eye on that second TDS meter. If it hits 1, I swap in the second and refill the first. Then it goes into the second slot.
What I do is measure TDS coming out of the membrane, typically 1 after the initial startup, and after the first resin filter. Then I have a second resin filter to make sure. I use color changing resin but keep a close eye on that second TDS meter. If it hits 1, I swap in the second and refill the first. Then it goes into the second slot.
Posted this in another thread about Clown Tangs. This is my target fish list:
2 Regal Angels
1 Emperor Angel
1 Blueline Angel
1 Clown Tang
1 Yellow Tang
1 Powder Blue
1 Niger Trigger
2 Rabbitfish
Smaller fish:
2 Heniochus Butterflys
2 Banggai Cardinals
1 Flame Hawk
1 Coral Beauty
1 Pottters Angel
2 Clarki Clowns
5 Anthias
5 Royal Grammas
3 Sand-sifting Gobies
2 Regal Angels
1 Emperor Angel
1 Blueline Angel
1 Clown Tang
1 Yellow Tang
1 Powder Blue
1 Niger Trigger
2 Rabbitfish
Smaller fish:
2 Heniochus Butterflys
2 Banggai Cardinals
1 Flame Hawk
1 Coral Beauty
1 Pottters Angel
2 Clarki Clowns
5 Anthias
5 Royal Grammas
3 Sand-sifting Gobies
