JapanReef - 450 gallon In-Wall system

Not to jack the thred, but the quality of corals when I was in their shop about a month ago were great! the size...yeah, most were somewhat small, comapring to PPM, but still decent quality I thought...JMO.

now to keep this on track...the tank is looking great Lawrence! really comming along!
 
Not to jack the thred, but the quality of corals when I was in their shop about a month ago were great! the size...yeah, most were somewhat small, comapring to PPM, but still decent quality I thought...JMO.

now to keep this on track...the tank is looking great Lawrence! really comming along!
 
Discussing corals in Japan is certainly within the scope of this thread. :)

Heat issues continue with the tank now hitting 29C (84.2F) and I'm losing corals. One purple tabling acro that started to STN over a month ago is totally gone now. And the green acro that is the furthest of the right is STNing from the inside out. It was one of my healthiest corals and has grown an inch at least since I got it. My green monti cap has a white patch on it and if that goes I'll be must gutted.

I have ordered those fans so hopefully they'll help. Yesterday I turned off the big Sequence 1000 and the difference was staggerring. The tank hit 27.5C (81.5F) so I'm only running it at night for now. If I can maintain that temperature then I'd be happy.

Also noticed some whiteness around the bases of other corals. Bleaching in that areas can be indicative of low flow so I'm wondering if 2 Vortechs is enough for my tank?
 
I would guess that your oxygen levels are low with temps. like that. Try setting up some airstones with as powerful a pump as you can find. Create some good turbulence at the surface and see what happens. Unfortunately, out of the corals I have had STN, only one has made a recovery. And bleaching can be due to many things like low alkalinity, high phosphates etc.

I was certain my latest STN was related to flow or my yanking out grape caulerpa but then I found that my alkalinity had dropped way too low. I hadn't been testing it regularly because my routine had stayed the same. However, something had changed to make it drop a lot.

The Vortechs provide wicked flow and I doubt that is your issue. Over time as your reef grows, you may find the need to add more, but at this point I would think you have enough flow. Two of them is 6000gph!
 
Laurence -

I am a little unsure as to why you are certain that the temperature is the culprit for your coral problems. While 84.2 is a little high, it is not really in the coral killing zone. If you have not yet, you should REALLY check out the section on temperature in THIS article:

      Reef Aquarium Water Parameters by Randy Holmes-Farley

In that article, Randy recommends keeping of reef aquariums at 76-83° F. HOWEVER, he goes on to comment:
In most instances, trying to match the natural environment in a reef aquarium is a worthy goal. Temperature may, however, be a parameter that requires accounting for the practical considerations of a small closed system. Looking to the ocean as a guide for setting temperatures in reef aquaria may present complications, because corals grow in such a wide range of temperatures. Nevertheless, Ron Shimek has shown in a previous article that the greatest variety of corals are found in water whose average temperature is about 83-86° F.
In short, I think you might be looking at the wrong culprit for your problem. Rather, perhaps there is something else going on with the system.

For one thing, this might be time to take a little more seriously the advice by folks to slow down with the introduction of new corals, etc.

And lastly, how much flow do you recommend you have going on in the system. With 800 gph for the return and 6000 gph for the vortechs, that is only 6800 gph total. And with a 340 gph tank, that's a rate of 20x turnover per hour. I might suggest the addition of a third vortech.

One more thing - have you done much water testing recently? I apologize if I missed that, but this might be a good time.

Good luck with things - I hope things turn around for you. It can be very sad to see a precious coral go!
 
I have A/C unit in there.......

I'm going to do some testing. Haven't tested Alk and the rest for quite some time. And I'm definitely not adding any more coral until I've nailed the issue.
 
Hmm, my tank parameters are completely out of whack. I can't understand how the Alk got so low when I always had high alk issues.

Alk: 6.1 :(
Nitrate: 20 to 30 :(
Phosphate: 0
PH 8.1
Ca: 450

The Alk problem is easily solved as I have loads of ESV component one. At 1ml per gallon I can add half a liter per day. Going to add some today but we're away for three days so will continue on Saturday.

Nitrate problem is not so easy to quickly remedy. I'm going to do some large water changes next week and cut down on feeding but I have been meaning to buy a Denitrator and this will spur me into ordering immediately.

Moral of the story, test regularly. I'm going to do these basics tests at least once a month.
 
Well, alk problem fixed. I addede 400ml of ESV component 1 over a few hours and then tested the water and it's measuring 10dKH. So in my system 100ml will increase by one point so nice figure to know for easy fixing.
 
Just posted in the equipment forum but thought I'd post here too....

I need to get a Denitrator asap so the quest begins.

H&S 150SR Nitrate Reactor ($459.99) from Aquarium Specialty - rated up to 500 gal.

Sulfur DeNITRIFIER XL ($439.95) from MidWestAquatic - rated 250g to 500g.

Korallin BioDenitrator S-3002 ($485.00) from MarineDepot - rated up to 400g.

I heard the Koralin is somewhat to setup and the MidWestAquatic unit is simpler. The H&S unit is somewhat of an unknown quantity but it looks sweet with the pump housed under it (check out the PDF). I think my choice will be between the H&S and MidWestAquatic. Thoughts, feedback?
 
NexDog,

You will be surprised at how well the fans will help with cooling. I really couldn't believe the difference once I added 2x 5" AC fans to the top of my 180g. I just siliconed mine to the glass which isn't optimal for cleaning reasons, but it works.

180CoolingFans1s.jpg
 
Good God, save your money on the dinitrator. Setup a Remote Deep Sand Bed!!! They are VERY effective and should cost a LOT less.
 
Haven't got the space. Could put it outside but don't really want to bother with that right now. And I like equipment so denitratror it is. :)
 
Didn't I see somewhere that you already had a chiller? Maybe I'm wrong.
Personally, 84 degrees would make me nervous. I would get some cheap floor fans (the ones with the stand) and just angle it down over the tank or the sump--even if it's only temperary.
 
I would bet dollars to donuts you lost the corals because of the low alk and high nitrates. Also, although I agree that natural reef temps. go higher than what most of us keep our tanks at, captive reef O2 levels must be maintained and the warmth of the water does lower the O2 saturation. Natural reefs have tremendous water movement and gas exchange that we cannot replicate, so we have to keep that in mind.

As Paul suggests, high temps. aren't neccessarily the culprit, but they do create other imbalances that can be detrimental to the captive reef. Not to get you crazy over testing, but I would suggest you test for O2 when your tank temp. is high and see what is happening.
 
And one other thing, the RDSB is a good idea IMO. I have one and my nitrates are zero. I combined it with a fuge (which some argue is not a good idea) and it is only a 50g Rubbermaid tub. It works really well, gives me access to swap out sand easily, and provides a home to all sorts of edible stuff. :D

My next addition to that RDSB will be some manilla clams. I want to see if they can help with water quality as well. I find that tank to be an interesting diversion.
 
jnarowe: Tell me a bit about these manilla clams - I have never heard of them. What do you hope to accomplish with them, specifically? And do you have any concerns about them disrupting the anaerobic nature of your RDSB?

And, btw, I for one think that a combination RDSB and Refugium is a GREAT idea. :)
 
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