JapanReef - 450 gallon In-Wall system
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
iNfaMous_reeF
New member
beautiful tank!!!!
dgasmd
New member
Maybe this has been discussed as I will admit to not reading all the replies, but if you are having nitrate issues in barebottom tank not too overloaded with fish and you do have a refugium with macro in it, then the nitrate reactor is not a solution, ut rather a very poor bandaid. Before you go buying another piece of equipment that cost so much, has added maintenance and cost to un, ehy not find the root of the problem first? I would first try to vaccum as much detritus as possible. Then, try running your lights over the macro 24/7. Macroalgae is extremely good as utilizing nitrates as a carbon source, so that by itself should have you nitrate free at all times. Is your test kit old? Do a significant water change to begin with. It will also help you witht he alkalinity to bring back some ion balance to your tank. You must be accumulating detritus somewhere that is rottening away causing your nitrates. Can you post a fish list?
By the way, I got in the habit of testing at least my salinity, alkalinity, and Ca weekly. It is one of the best habits I picked up and have kept with even after years of doing the same thing over and over.
By the way, I got in the habit of testing at least my salinity, alkalinity, and Ca weekly. It is one of the best habits I picked up and have kept with even after years of doing the same thing over and over.
dgasmd - it does have sand but I replace it every 2 months at least. Over half of it is barebottom and teh area under the islands is kept clean by the Sequence 1000 that runs the racks there so detritus buildup isn't really an issue.
Pretty much all my macro has disappeared from my fuge. I was using Caulerpa (only macro I can get) and the fuge was lit 24/7 (to prevent sporelating). I guess the downfall of the macro has given rise to the nitrate problem. What could cause macro to die off like that? Maybe the low alk?
Since the last lot of fish went in I have been feeding alot and now I'm feeding half that amount. Fish list:
5 Lyretails
1 Powder Blue
1 Yellow Tang
1 juvie Emperor
1 Flame Angel
1 Coral Beauty
2 Henochious
2 Sleeper gobies
1 Yellow Watchman
1 Yellow Coris
2 Clarkii Clowns
I have a Blue Line Angel that I'm bringing out of hypo now and will add it in a week. It will be the biggest fish in there at 5". I have a tiny Regal Angel in QT too but I'm debating on whether to keep him in the separate system for a while as he really is tiny. So with those two in there it will make 20.
Pretty much all my macro has disappeared from my fuge. I was using Caulerpa (only macro I can get) and the fuge was lit 24/7 (to prevent sporelating). I guess the downfall of the macro has given rise to the nitrate problem. What could cause macro to die off like that? Maybe the low alk?
Since the last lot of fish went in I have been feeding alot and now I'm feeding half that amount. Fish list:
5 Lyretails
1 Powder Blue
1 Yellow Tang
1 juvie Emperor
1 Flame Angel
1 Coral Beauty
2 Henochious
2 Sleeper gobies
1 Yellow Watchman
1 Yellow Coris
2 Clarkii Clowns
I have a Blue Line Angel that I'm bringing out of hypo now and will add it in a week. It will be the biggest fish in there at 5". I have a tiny Regal Angel in QT too but I'm debating on whether to keep him in the separate system for a while as he really is tiny. So with those two in there it will make 20.
melev
Well-known member
Why are you removing the sand every two months? Is that in the main tank or the refugium?
Caulerpa dying will release nitrate and phosphate back into the water. You should have enough nutrients with your fish and feedings to support the macro algae, but your system might be iron-poor perhaps. Some plants really demand iron supplementation.
Caulerpa dying will release nitrate and phosphate back into the water. You should have enough nutrients with your fish and feedings to support the macro algae, but your system might be iron-poor perhaps. Some plants really demand iron supplementation.
dgasmd
New member
You certainly don't have enough fish there to be the root of your problems in that size of a system regardless of refugium or not and even sand or not. Removing the sand should not be an issue. I take it you remove it (vaccum it out) to prevent detritus build up? Like melev said, the death of the macro in the refugium may be the reason for your nitrates. I would start by cleaning out your refugium completely and thoroughly, and then do the larger water change. I run no refugium and have no sand bed. I have accumulated so much detritus over the last few months of no vaccuming the bottom that you would think I have a sand bed. I have had a few anthias disappear over the last few months too, and still have not a single hint of nitrates.
I would still hold off on the nitrate reactor for now. The only people I know that have them running and do need them have a fish population at least 10 times yours in half the size of a system.
What kind of lights are over your refugium?
I would still hold off on the nitrate reactor for now. The only people I know that have them running and do need them have a fish population at least 10 times yours in half the size of a system.
What kind of lights are over your refugium?
Yea, sand removal for detritus removal and I siphon it out....
So I wonder why the caulerpa died...very weird. I'm due to do a large water change this week as I dump tank water into the QT to bring it out of hypo and equalise water parameters. I have two sets of strip lights over the fuge. Nothing intense - one looks like a power compact and the other just a flourescent. Was fine for over a year and it's alot of light really for that section.
I still might get teh denitrator anyway as I plan to stock heavy.
So I wonder why the caulerpa died...very weird. I'm due to do a large water change this week as I dump tank water into the QT to bring it out of hypo and equalise water parameters. I have two sets of strip lights over the fuge. Nothing intense - one looks like a power compact and the other just a flourescent. Was fine for over a year and it's alot of light really for that section.
I still might get teh denitrator anyway as I plan to stock heavy.
dgasmd
New member
I don't think the lights are too much for a refugium, but I believe in dimmer rather than intense lighting for refugiums. Too much light and the macro preferentially fixes carbon via photosynthesis versus nutrients int he water. I don't know how much weight I would put in this theory, but it has worked well for me in the past. Also, less heat added.
Maybe you can try the macro again once you have cleaned out the refugium area well. I would not do it after setting up the nitrate reactor as there may be too much nitrate consumption by it that will compete for the algae making it not thrive.
What other supplements or media do you use? Do you use one of those aluminum based PO4 removers?
Maybe you can try the macro again once you have cleaned out the refugium area well. I would not do it after setting up the nitrate reactor as there may be too much nitrate consumption by it that will compete for the algae making it not thrive.
What other supplements or media do you use? Do you use one of those aluminum based PO4 removers?
Joao Monteiro
New member
Laurence,
Which species of caulerpa was it, do you know ?
I think it might had to do with one out of two things: temperature or reproduction.
Over the years, I´ve had caulerpa serptularioides, taxifolia, racemosa, peltata and prolifera.
At 30º C (85-86 F ?) they start to die. Above 32º C, they just can´t make it. Nevertheless, taxifolia is the one that better supports high temperatures, followed by racemosa. Prolifera is very sensible.
Caulerpa has assexual (word/speling ok ?) reproduction Sometimes, they start a "reproduction procedure" (I like this expression...) and the water becomes cloudy and in a day or two they all die.
That is one of the reasons I prefer to use Chaetomorpha. The other has to do with the strong roots of many caulerpa species and the damage they cause to the (D)SB.
Which species of caulerpa was it, do you know ?
I think it might had to do with one out of two things: temperature or reproduction.
Over the years, I´ve had caulerpa serptularioides, taxifolia, racemosa, peltata and prolifera.
At 30º C (85-86 F ?) they start to die. Above 32º C, they just can´t make it. Nevertheless, taxifolia is the one that better supports high temperatures, followed by racemosa. Prolifera is very sensible.
Caulerpa has assexual (word/speling ok ?) reproduction Sometimes, they start a "reproduction procedure" (I like this expression...) and the water becomes cloudy and in a day or two they all die.
That is one of the reasons I prefer to use Chaetomorpha. The other has to do with the strong roots of many caulerpa species and the damage they cause to the (D)SB.
dgasmd
New member
I wouldn't put too much weight on the bulb's age. I had my refugium with 3 NO bulbs that were about 5 years old of 12+ hour/day use in a fresh water tank. The temperature issue brought up by Joao seems pretty good. I did not think about it. What temp is your tank running at? I have not been keeping up with the thread continiously.
dgasmd - only use carbon at the moment. PO4 is non-detectable for now....
Joao - it was racemosa (grape caulerpa). I'd use Chaeto if I could get it but it doesn't exist here....
Jonathan - I doubt the bulbs spectrum shifted that much and I don't thik algae are as sensitive to that as corals. I didn't look like anything. I didn't look in there for a month (it has the shadow bow on top) and then I took a look and it was all but gone.
I'm sure it didn't sporelate. That was one of the reasons for keeping the lighting on 24/7 and also I didn't notice any cloudiness.
Joao - it was racemosa (grape caulerpa). I'd use Chaeto if I could get it but it doesn't exist here....
Jonathan - I doubt the bulbs spectrum shifted that much and I don't thik algae are as sensitive to that as corals. I didn't look like anything. I didn't look in there for a month (it has the shadow bow on top) and then I took a look and it was all but gone.
I'm sure it didn't sporelate. That was one of the reasons for keeping the lighting on 24/7 and also I didn't notice any cloudiness.
Joao Monteiro
New member
Hum.... the C. racemosa I had was very tolerant to temperature (until 30º C at least).
Ordered half a kilo (1lb) of fresh UmiBudo today - otherwise known as Caulerpa Racemosa (grape caulerpa). That's a lot of macro but my need is large. Hopefully it will chew into that nitrate.
Denitrator from MidWestAquatic is shipping out today....
I hooked up the two IceCap fans - made no difference. Need ALOT more power than they put out that's for sure.
On another note:
My pair of Clarkii's are happily hosted in an LTA. But in a marine tank where we are trying to cultivate a riot of colours, a brown LTA is boring me. I've seen a beautiful blue Haddoni from a vendor I trust:
If I remove the LTA and put this carpet anenome in its place do you think the Clarkiis will host in there quickly? I don't want to freak them out but it would be great to have this colour on that side of the tank. The anenome can have that whole side of the rockwork to itself so hopefully it won't move too much.
Denitrator from MidWestAquatic is shipping out today....
I hooked up the two IceCap fans - made no difference. Need ALOT more power than they put out that's for sure.
On another note:
My pair of Clarkii's are happily hosted in an LTA. But in a marine tank where we are trying to cultivate a riot of colours, a brown LTA is boring me. I've seen a beautiful blue Haddoni from a vendor I trust:
If I remove the LTA and put this carpet anenome in its place do you think the Clarkiis will host in there quickly? I don't want to freak them out but it would be great to have this colour on that side of the tank. The anenome can have that whole side of the rockwork to itself so hopefully it won't move too much.
