JBJ 28 Gallon Nano Owners Club

I understand. The Cad lights is supposed to be about the same size but round. Did u consider a hang on back? I have room behind but never thought one would work on an AIO. It just seems no nano skimmer will fit behind in the compartments with heavy or some modifications on the skimmer or the tank itself. Don't want to spend money then mutilate a skimmer
 
Need URGENT Help!!

I got my Steve's LED retrofit kit. I bought the Typhon controller and the extension cable. Unfortunately Steve's instructions are not so good! The cable has 8 wires 2 sets of green, black, yellow & red wires. The installation instructions say not to use the green - then shows 1 black wire going into a connector marked G, then 1 red wire going into DIM1 and 1 yellow going into DIM2. Am I supposed to put BOTH blacks in the G, both reds in the DIM1 and both Yellows in the DIM2? That doesn't make sense to me. It would make more sense to put both black wires in the G, 1 set of red & yellow in DIM1 and the other set of red & yellow in DIM2. Anyone know which is correct??

Second issue - there was no 12V DC adapter for the Typhon in the box. Do the black wires supply power to the Typhon from the board? Or did Steve's forget to pack a 12V DC adapter for me?

I've sent several emails to Steve's this afternoon - no response so far. I've got a hoodless tank and a dismantled hood at this point, and afraid to plug anything in from all of the "incorrect wiring could cause complete destruction of your equipment" warnings over the instructions.
 
I couldn't figure out the Typhon wiring, and didn't want to destroy anything. Just did the basic install without the Typhon controller, and got the hood back on the Nano Cube, and plugged the power supply into an on/off timer until I get clear instructions from Steve's. Oh joy ... I get to remove a bunch of tiny screws again! :headwally:

I did manage to salvage the stock moonlights as well! It wasn't that hard to do, it didn't even require any additional wiring - I just had to swap wires between the front right, and rear left LEDs, move the board for the LEDs toward the middle and secure it in place upside down, then attach the rear right LED to a post one over towards the middle that the board used to use. The right rear LED is not over a clear spot in the splash shield, but it seems fine.

I could not fit the Ecoxotic Stunners into the hood as - they're just a smudge too long. Luckily the adhesive didn't leave a mess all over the splash guard.

I do have to say, the lights look incredible! MUCH, MUCH better than the stock JBJ lights. :inlove: And they are WAY powerful! It's going to take many weeks of slow adjustments to get anywhere near full strength (not that I'm planning on that).
 
Finally figured it out!! The dip switches were in the wrong position - the chip was installed 180 degrees from the instructions, so they needed to be up to be off, not down.

That and having to run to Radio Shack for a 12V DC power adapter that Steve's LEDs forgot to send me, and it started working.

It's amazing how much better the corals look, when you have the right lighting.
 
Goldndoodle said:
Finally figured it out!! The dip switches were in the wrong position - the chip was installed 180 degrees from the instructions, so they needed to be up to be off, not down.

That and having to run to Radio Shack for a 12V DC power adapter that Steve's LEDs forgot to send me, and it started working.

It's amazing how much better the corals look, when you have the right lighting.
Click to expand...

Hey Gold,

Sorry I didn't see your posts! The wiring is a little off in their instructions.. Glad you got it all set up though! Let me know if you have any other questions
 
LedZep -

I LOVE the Steve's LED setup - the LEDs, the quieter fan, the Typhon controller, the whole thing.

The instructions though - not so good. I could easily rewrite their instructions so the layman could setup the system, and it wouldn't take much to alter what they've got to make it understandable for a hobbyist and not require an Electrical Engineering degree to figure out what to do.

How are you adjusting intensity of the LEDs? I original did as Steve's suggested and set the Typhon to 100% for MAX for both the Blues and Whites, then mounted the pots to the hood, and was slowly adjusting the pots from about 15% moving up in smidges of degrees every Wednesday & Sunday mornings. But I didn't like not knowing where I was on the intensity. So I reset the Typhon to 20% MAX on the Whites and 25% MAX on the Blues and have been bumping them up 2% each Wednesday & Sunday morning (currently at 26% & 31%) ... figuring I'll stop bumping them up around the 50% Whites, 55-60% Blues level. The Typhon isn't that difficult to adjust, and the added advantage I see is that if I add a new coral, or fish, I can turn the pots down to 1/2 way and slowly adjust them over a time to being back up to full.
 
got my 28JBJ nano LED - also picked up an upgraded media basket as the OE is crap.

For the referigm - running now in the middle chamber of the basket.

But looking at this tank are others running cheleto/macro algae - in the middle chamber (not in the basket)?

Looks like a nice amount of room, just would need to watch I don't get overgrowth to fowl the pumps.
 
Goldndoodle said:
LedZep -

I LOVE the Steve's LED setup - the LEDs, the quieter fan, the Typhon controller, the whole thing.

The instructions though - not so good. I could easily rewrite their instructions so the layman could setup the system, and it wouldn't take much to alter what they've got to make it understandable for a hobbyist and not require an Electrical Engineering degree to figure out what to do.

How are you adjusting intensity of the LEDs? I original did as Steve's suggested and set the Typhon to 100% for MAX for both the Blues and Whites, then mounted the pots to the hood, and was slowly adjusting the pots from about 15% moving up in smidges of degrees every Wednesday & Sunday mornings. But I didn't like not knowing where I was on the intensity. So I reset the Typhon to 20% MAX on the Whites and 25% MAX on the Blues and have been bumping them up 2% each Wednesday & Sunday morning (currently at 26% & 31%) ... figuring I'll stop bumping them up around the 50% Whites, 55-60% Blues level. The Typhon isn't that difficult to adjust, and the added advantage I see is that if I add a new coral, or fish, I can turn the pots down to 1/2 way and slowly adjust them over a time to being back up to full.
Click to expand...

Glad you're liking them! Agreed on the instructions, I had troubles as well.

As far as intensity goes, I did exactly what you're doing now. I maxed out at about 55-60%. What I did was use the knobs to adjust to a spectrum I liked them started the intensity at 15% and moved up by 2% every few days. When corals seemed to receed or bleach I'd slow down and let them adjust over a week or so.
 
OK i've been reading throughout this thread now and I would like to know if anyone here has used the stock LED lights on the PRO with good success...say over a year or so. I did see a few posts with people happy with them but most say they are too bright, bleaching of corals, and the color isn't right or for their liking.

I picked up a used JBJ 28 PRO a few weeks back and got a great deal on it however I was told I needed to replace the Dawn/Dusk driver for the actinic lights (not moonlights), bought the new driver last week and nothing happened so I'm guessing at least one of the LED's is out. Sent a message to JBJ first before I move forward, hopefully they can help out. If not I will go from there with these new actinic LED's, . Also back in March 2013 (sorry I can't remember who said it) had a good idea of switching out a few of the 14k LED's to add more color and cut down on the "white" light. I'm curious if anyone has done that successfully?

The Steve's LEDs or other options are great but for right now I'm looking to put more money into a controller (ReefKeeper Lite) then going away from the stock LED's if I can. With that being said if I could spend $50 or so and switch out say 10-12 of the stock 14k LED's to colors that would be great!
 
Another question...

Anyone know where the JBJ Nano 28 LED PRO serial number (not model number) is? I was told the back inside wall of the tank to me that's not clear... does that mean in the built in sump (can't see well back there as it's up against a wall) or does that mean the main chamber back wall of the tank (have sand and coraline algae growing over that so not sure where to look...
 
Central reef, do you have any troubles with the nem stinging the corals on the top of the structure? Is that an LTA on the left BT on the right?
 
I have a in tank media basket with carbon bag, purigen and floss. I have an aquamaxx Hob skimmer. I am also running one of the stock pumps through a chiller. That connection loose a lot of flow, if I run the other pump the water level goes down and I get a lot micro bubbles. I don't know why my in tank cannot keep up. Shall I replace the stock pump with a MJ400 or 600? I can then run both pumps. I was going to ask this to Angelo "ange062", since he had a similar setup. I am not sure he is around lately
 
race58 said:
Todd,,
My problem exactly! There are some that will fit and I thougth I had one in the Hydor SlimSkim Nano but it is about 1/8" too big to fit the chamber, hence my question.

Ed
Click to expand...

Hey Ed! I know this post was a few months back, but I was wondering how the Hydor Slim Skim Nano worked out? I have been in the same boat with the JBJ NC28. Can't find a skimmer that will work. :headwallblue:

I have one now that was recommended by DFS for the NC28 but it doesn't work well and I can't open the lid without knocking the collection cup off. I don't have enough room for a HOB skimmer without draining and moving the tank further away from the wall, and I'm not keen on doing that either.

Is anyone having luck finding a good quality skimmer that will fit this tank???
 
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