L_Jones6199
New member
question guys if i use that middle chamber for a fuge will i lose the option to run a HOB skimmer?
JBJ 28 Gallon Nano Owners Club
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
L_Jones6199
New member
anyone have the cpr aquafuge 2 with skimmer? was there any mods needed?
. Anyone running (or need to run) an ATO on these?
SlvrSurfRidr
aka: coraltopia
I've got the JBJ ATO on mine - chances are you'll need/want one
SlvrSurfRidr
aka: coraltopia
FYI - you'll most likely want to run RODI water with the ATO, not Salt
sahin
Ultimate Reefer
I am very confused about auto top offs...so need your help here please. I have decided to buy the Tunze Osmolator as part of my setup (still in planning stage).
As far as I know, the water level in the display area is constant, so the sensors must be located in the rear compartments right? What happens if the two pumps are on a wave maker? Would this cause the water level to fluctuate in the rear compartment causing the auto top up system to not work properly?
I need to be sure that such systems will work in this tank. I suppose utilising these top ups in a normal tank or sump is simple, but as I have never owned an all in one nano tank I simply dont know. So please help me understand.
PS any pics etc that show the top off setup in this tank would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks in advance.
As far as I know, the water level in the display area is constant, so the sensors must be located in the rear compartments right? What happens if the two pumps are on a wave maker? Would this cause the water level to fluctuate in the rear compartment causing the auto top up system to not work properly?
I need to be sure that such systems will work in this tank. I suppose utilising these top ups in a normal tank or sump is simple, but as I have never owned an all in one nano tank I simply dont know. So please help me understand.
PS any pics etc that show the top off setup in this tank would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks in advance.
SlvrSurfRidr
aka: coraltopia
Sorry if there is a lack of response on this topic (we've pretty much beat it to death). You might have to just look back a few pages and catch up on the thread.
sl-atl
Member
The sump baffles are designed so that the water level in the two end compartments that the pumps are in does change, but it does not vary according to the operation of the wavemaker.
For my ATO setup, one level switch is in one of these compartments and another is in the RO top-off water reservoir.
The pump for my Protein Skimmer (Remora) is in the middle compartment, which has a constant water level.
Hope this helps!
balloonpilot
Premium Member
Sorry I've been a way for a bit...
Here's the conditions of my Nano.
Ca/Mg/pH all finaly holding nicely but Alk is something i'm still fighting to keep stable. I can buffer (Seachem Reef Buffer) and get to 9.5 or 10 but within 1 day it drops a whole 1 dk/h unit!
I started dosiing Kalk to match my evap rate; however that was too much Ca and my Ca rose to 580+. So I've reduced the kalk to allow Ca to come down and once down will increase to match burn rate of Ca and NOT evap rate (will let ATO pick up the slack).
Its been suggested that I mix Vinegar when I make up a Kalk batch to increase Carbon Dioxide and that this will help... Anyone have comment ?
As for corals - The green birds next has been moved up closer to the lights and seems to be recovering polyps. The brown acro is white at the bottom that seems to be growing upwards. Ive moved it to the top to see if things get better but nothing in a week. Im considering fragging it t try and save whats left.
Lastly - I've got a zoanthid that was on a rock that turned out to have 'spagetti worms' who liked to lay their tentacles over its polyps which kept them closed for a long time. Ive since moved it and hope that some of the polyps recover. Any idea how to get rid of 'spagetti worms' .
Cheers
Here's the conditions of my Nano.
Ca/Mg/pH all finaly holding nicely but Alk is something i'm still fighting to keep stable. I can buffer (Seachem Reef Buffer) and get to 9.5 or 10 but within 1 day it drops a whole 1 dk/h unit!
I started dosiing Kalk to match my evap rate; however that was too much Ca and my Ca rose to 580+. So I've reduced the kalk to allow Ca to come down and once down will increase to match burn rate of Ca and NOT evap rate (will let ATO pick up the slack).
Its been suggested that I mix Vinegar when I make up a Kalk batch to increase Carbon Dioxide and that this will help... Anyone have comment ?
As for corals - The green birds next has been moved up closer to the lights and seems to be recovering polyps. The brown acro is white at the bottom that seems to be growing upwards. Ive moved it to the top to see if things get better but nothing in a week. Im considering fragging it t try and save whats left.
Lastly - I've got a zoanthid that was on a rock that turned out to have 'spagetti worms' who liked to lay their tentacles over its polyps which kept them closed for a long time. Ive since moved it and hope that some of the polyps recover. Any idea how to get rid of 'spagetti worms' .
Cheers
SlvrSurfRidr
aka: coraltopia
Not sure if anyone else needs them - but I had a friend taking care of my tank for me while I went on vacation and he somehow managed to bust one of the hinges. You can pick up a set on Nanotuners for about $15 - takes 5 minutes to install
slaizer2000
New member
The left and right chambers in the rear are actually connected together beneath where the center chamber ends.
Because they are the same container, the water level on the right and left side of the chambers are always at the same height.
Since the main aquariums overflows into the center rear chamber and the center rear chamber overflows into the right and left rear chambers the right and left chambers in the rear are the ones that get lower first as water evaporates.
One thing you will run into as a problem with the ATO and the wavetimer is if you loose power. When the JBJ wavetimer loses power, when it is first turned back on both pumps are turned on continuously. Problem with this is both pumps put water into the main tank faster than it can overflow into the rear chamber. This will cause the water level in the left and right rear chambers to lower which will in turn cause the ATO to add fresh water. I don't think its enough to affect salinity by that much but it will add fresh water when it doesn't need to.
To combat this i put the wavetimer on a very cheap (20-30) UPS (battery backup) so if there is a power outtage the wavetimer never looses its power.
someone did mention though that their UPS system ended up frying their wavetimer although I have not had this problem.
slaizer2000
New member
I broke one of my hinges as well. I have an intake and outake lockline tubing (hard tubing) going through 2 holes i made in the rear of the lid.
when i made the cutouts I thought they were large enough, but they were not so when i opened the hood it would catch on one of the lockline tubes causing it to push up away from the hinge which ended up breaking the hinge. Since replacing the hinge i have notched out a larger opening so there is total clearance when opening and closing the lid.
Had to pay the 15 dollars. Kind of alot for those 2 little hinges and screws. IF you don't have clearance over your plumpbing like i did you probably should make a larger hole else you will run into this 15 dollar mistake. Although atleast i have 1 spare now.
slaizer2000
New member
Anyone try nanotuners electronic ballast? I just got done assembling and installing one yesterday. Supposed to be more efficient and provide better life to your Metal halide bulbs.
But i notice the aluminum case gets alot hotter than the magnetic ballast that comes with the tank.
May be because the case is smaller and it is aluminum compared to steel. Better heat sink, therefore more hot?
Anyone have one of these and how well has it held up? I think my lighting looks a bit more crisp and blue but then that may just be in my mind as i cant' compare the 2 side by side.
But i notice the aluminum case gets alot hotter than the magnetic ballast that comes with the tank.
May be because the case is smaller and it is aluminum compared to steel. Better heat sink, therefore more hot?
Anyone have one of these and how well has it held up? I think my lighting looks a bit more crisp and blue but then that may just be in my mind as i cant' compare the 2 side by side.
I'm not sure what that will do to the alk. I know it causes the pH to decrease so that more can be added to the tank without making the tank pH go too high. I forget what it does to the alk though.
CO2 is an acid and we already have CO2 problems in these tanks with closed lids. Not sure if you want that.
balloonpilot
Premium Member
Breeze,
Yeah thats what I thought... I finally read all Randy's stuff and other info on CO2 with closed homes and closed tanks then the LFS tells me to mix Vinegar w/ my Kalk to raise CO2... Maybe okay on a larger/open tank but not for us.
Yeah thats what I thought... I finally read all Randy's stuff and other info on CO2 with closed homes and closed tanks then the LFS tells me to mix Vinegar w/ my Kalk to raise CO2... Maybe okay on a larger/open tank but not for us.
jackal4eva
New member
I have the ATO and the wavetimer set to always on - I've never experienced the overflow rate vs. pump rate described by slaizer2000 . Were you talking about non-stock pumps?
