ange062
New member
Mine is 2/3 up on the left, 80% reefcrest with occasional changes to NTM. I think placement is highly driven by your scape and tank location though.
JBJ 28 Gallon Nano Owners Club
- Thread starter JohnL
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Mine is 2/3 up on the left, 80% reefcrest with occasional changes to NTM. I think placement is highly driven by your scape and tank location though.
Based on some research I'm thinking it's diatoms. It never gets thick or slimy. It's just a slight tan/brown color to the sand and then the bubbles. I'm wondering if rearranging my rock and stirring up the sand a lot (which has been in the tank a long time from previous owner) caused a bit of another mini cycle.
I've got a cleanup crew of 15 hermits, 2 turbo snails and 4 astrea snails. The tan color to the sand doesn't even bother me, it's just the bubbles that are annoying. :headwally:
ange062
New member
If I were you I'd add some sand sifters like nassarius snails, a starfish, and/or a sand sifting goby. Should help out. I've got about 15 nassarius in my tank, works wonders
Thanks ange. I'm going to do that. I've actually been wanting to add an orange linckia for a while but was kind of cautious after reading how difficult they supposedly are. I had a blue one years ago and never had a problem with it. Never did anything special like spot feeding or anything either. Might have to add some and a few nassarius too.
shane reef
New member
Question, can I use live rock in media compartment insted of the rings? also can I put live rock rubble in system on back? I have a 28g nano. Thanks
You could definitely use LR rubble if you wanted but the macaroni style bio media probably offers more surface area. Personally I'd pass on either and just rely on the live rock in the display for your biological filtration.
Not sure what you mean by using live rock "in system on back" but I'm assuming that you mean in the various compartments? I'd stick to the media basket or preferably just the display. Dropping LR rubble in the heater compartments will lead to a lot of detritus that will be impossible to clean out regularly.
That's just my opinion though since you're not getting any other responses but maybe others would disagree.
Luiz Rocha
Salty Dog
Alright fellas, so I am trying to make a decision here. I have a JBJ28 HQI and was always concerned about the heat produced by the light, so I am thinking about upgrading to the LED version. But before I do so, I have a simple question, how do you guys clean the front bowed glass without scratching it? My old (4 years old) HQI is totally scratched from my cleaning...
I use a Kent Pro scraper with the metal attachment but I put my hand in and go side to side on the front so that the whole thing is touching the glass and not just the two ends. So far I've had no issues with scratching. I think the key is to go side to side and be as gentle as possible.
LuisPerez711
New member
Hello everyone! So I have a question that I'm trying to understand a bit more. I've done some research but still would like to know more; so any input would be greatly appreciated! So I have a JBJ nano cube which I retrofitted with a 6 x 9 heatsink and 20 3w LEDs, 12 Royal Blue/8 Cool White. I believe the royal blue LEDs are xt-e and the cool whites are the xp-g but I'm not sure because I bought this kit from RapidLED about a year ago. My questions are these: I would like to know what Kelvin I'm at. The cool whites are rated between 5000-8300k but with the royal blues doesn't it make it higher? How would I be able to tell/calculate that. Also the tank is about 22in deep so do I have enough power to penetrate to the bottom of the tank? If not any recommendations on what to add/supplement? Or simply Put is that enough light for my tank?
I have a montipora undata at the highest point in the tank which has shown good growth but I still feel it could be better in growth and color. I'm hoping to get more sps towards the top (some acros, monti caps, chalices) and still keep lps at the bottom part but I want my lighting to be close to perfect before I invest the time and money. If you like to send me threads to read I won't mind at all sorry for the long post and I thank you all so much!
So I have a JBJ nano cube which I retrofitted with a 6 x 9 heatsink and 20 3w LEDs, 12 Royal Blue/8 Cool White. I believe the royal blue LEDs are xt-e and the cool whites are the xp-g but I'm not sure because I bought this kit from RapidLED about a year ago. My questions are these: I would like to know what Kelvin I'm at. The cool whites are rated between 5000-8300k but with the royal blues doesn't it make it higher? How would I be able to tell/calculate that. Also the tank is about 22in deep so do I have enough power to penetrate to the bottom of the tank? If not any recommendations on what to add/supplement? Or simply Put is that enough light for my tank?I have a montipora undata at the highest point in the tank which has shown good growth but I still feel it could be better in growth and color. I'm hoping to get more sps towards the top (some acros, monti caps, chalices) and still keep lps at the bottom part but I want my lighting to be close to perfect before I invest the time and money. If you like to send me threads to read I won't mind at all sorry for the long post and I thank you all so much!
LuisPerez711
New member
Oh just to add I have my LEDs on seperate dimmable drivers. Running both at 100% at 700ma.
ange062
New member
As chad said, I don't think there is a need for either rings/rubble in the back compartments if you are using enough LR in the main display. Target 1lb/gal, so about 25lbs (yes, tank says 28g but when you fill it up you will notice it's closer to 22g with all the rock, sand, etc in there).
I'd say ditch the hood and use aftermarket lighting instead of going with the JBJ LED hood, just my 2c. I use Lee's Glass Algae pads, and they should be switched every few months IMO and be careful not to catch sand in it. I also use a Kent Pro Scraper to clean down at the sand line and get coralline algae off.
Hello everyone! So I have a question that I'm trying to understand a bit more. I've done some research but still would like to know more; so any input would be greatly appreciated!
I have a montipora undata at the highest point in the tank which has shown good growth but I still feel it could be better in growth and color. I'm hoping to get more sps towards the top (some acros, monti caps, chalices) and still keep lps at the bottom part but I want my lighting to be close to perfect before I invest the time and money. If you like to send me threads to read I won't mind at all sorry for the long post and I thank you all so much!
Not sure about your Kelvin question, sorry can't help there. But I do think you have enough to penetrate down to the sandbed, I've had good luck with growing SPS down to the sand using my Radion @ 91w with the fixture 9" over the water. Good color seems to be an issue when running only CW/RB combos IMO. But it also comes down to tons of other factors, like low nutriets, addition of supplements like AA's, feeding, etc.
LuisPerez711
New member
Really? By any chance would you know what color LEDs would enhance color? I've been reading that adding a red LED helps with the color and growth. I've been looking to substitute a couple of the LEDs with other colors such as blue, neutral white to see what happens. And nutrients huh? I read something about iodine or strontium are the ones that help with the color? What are AA's? I spot feed the corals every other day I give them zooplankton mixed with brightwell aquatics reef snow.
Hey guys I just had a quick question. Is the location of my aquamaxx ok? My light rail is directly on the back of y stand going over the center of my tank which won't allow me to move the aquamaxx. I can't have it anywhere else on my Tank without having the return go into the display. I wouldn't mind that however I'm getting a lot of micro bubbles. With that being said, would the location or how it is sitting cause damage to the skimmer ? I'm debating bt my aquamaxx vs 9002 right now since with the hob1 I can use the media basket and with the tunze I cannot. However the aquamaxx is loud and the tunze barely makes any noise..
I wouldn't worry about it. It's probably not ideal but I have the JNS version of that skimmer and they are built well. With the weight of it resting on the right side mount and the outlet it should be sturdy enough. Are you planning on running both skimmers long term or just waiting for the Aquamaxx to break in?
ange062
New member
Not an expert on the topic, but I know my Radion has Red/Green LED's and I'm getting great color. AA's are Amino Acids, plenty of people llmake them, I use Brigthwell because they are cheaper than most others but work great.
Everything you could ever need to know about the HOB-1:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2027481
It should be very quiet, mine is almost silent. If it's not you have it setup wrong. And it's a very strong and efficient skimmer.
LuisPerez711
New member
Thanks so much ange for all your help really appreciate the info and insight
NMC
New member
My tank's about 4.5 mos. old now and I have a significant amount of red algae and a smaller amount of green algae. Messing around with water changes, lites out, etc. My phosphates always read 0, but yesterday I started up a phosban reactor. I'm using the Two Little Fishes reactor. I just have phosban in it. I'm a little confused. Do some people put both phosban and carbon in the same reactor? If so, how much of each and what should the flow look like?
I think it's not the ideal way to go NMC but I just moved my carbon into my GFO reactor the other day. I did it because I was not getting good enough flow in my media basket with the 2 return pumps that I have running on it.
I have about 8 or 9 tbs of BRS GFO and probably 3/4 of a cup of carbon in my 3LF reactor. When I added the carbon I noticed a nice sized air pocket in my GFO so I shook the reactor around which caused the carbon pellets to settle into the GFO so that it's all mixed together. I keep the flow just high enough that I see some tumbling throughout the GFO and I see the top of the material sort of tumbling or "rolling" kind of like a lava lamp effect.
I believe that there is a video on the bulk reef supply website that shows the setup and running of the 2LF phosban reactor including it running with GFO and carbon together. I also believe that they don't favor that combo because you tend to want less flow with carbon than with GFO because it can grind down easier. However, having it mixed in with my GFO keeps it from tumbling together with itself too much. I'm pretty happy with it mixed in my reactor and I think I'm going to stick with this method for a while. Possibly adding a second reactor for carbon but probably not. Things are getting pretty cramped as it is back there.
Hope that helps but the BRS video would probably be more clear. Good luck and I hope that it helps cut down your algae issues.
I have about 8 or 9 tbs of BRS GFO and probably 3/4 of a cup of carbon in my 3LF reactor. When I added the carbon I noticed a nice sized air pocket in my GFO so I shook the reactor around which caused the carbon pellets to settle into the GFO so that it's all mixed together. I keep the flow just high enough that I see some tumbling throughout the GFO and I see the top of the material sort of tumbling or "rolling" kind of like a lava lamp effect.
I believe that there is a video on the bulk reef supply website that shows the setup and running of the 2LF phosban reactor including it running with GFO and carbon together. I also believe that they don't favor that combo because you tend to want less flow with carbon than with GFO because it can grind down easier. However, having it mixed in with my GFO keeps it from tumbling together with itself too much. I'm pretty happy with it mixed in my reactor and I think I'm going to stick with this method for a while. Possibly adding a second reactor for carbon but probably not. Things are getting pretty cramped as it is back there.
Hope that helps but the BRS video would probably be more clear. Good luck and I hope that it helps cut down your algae issues.
