Jebao WP25 Information

[Sacohen]

I use GFO and have never seen loose particles of it attached to the magnets.
In my case the GFO water returns to my sump so I would guess if the particles are going to be anywhere they would be on my return pump magnet.

That's not one that I clean that often so I can't say 100% they are not on there.

 

[rrasco]

I use GFO too, never seen it on my pumps. Calcium deposits are another story though.

 

[ganjero]

I was just thinking out of the box and throwing a crazy idea out there....I guess if it was GFO this issue would be seen in other pumps too.

 

[Sacohen]

If it were GFO it would stick to anything with a magnet.
Pumps, Magnetic mounts for pumps (like the ones used on the Jebao) Magnetic probe holders. Cleaning Magnets if you leave them in the tank.

 

[zachts]

GFO is not really attracted to magnets. I was curious so just tried it and more sticks to my finger than a magnet, and what was on the magnet was powder probably static electric charge not magnetism........

 

[invertinoob]

I don't think is for sale yet

the video i watched said it was going on sale at the end of the month.

 

[JiveWalker]

I am in need of a powerhead for my 90 gallon and am considering either a 25 or 40, not sure which size would be best. After reading through some of this thread, id like to offer the following suggestion based on fan experience.

In the HVAC world, when a fan blade becomes coated and the curves fill in and flatten out the air flow reduces considerably. Could this be a part of what people are experiencing with the slime build up, in addition to the magnets? Just a thought is all. also, slime on the prop would increase the weight as well, just another thought.

I'm really considering one of these as i cant afford a vortech. What size would be best for a 90?

thanks,
Brian

 

[SimonSKL]

I am in need of a powerhead for my 90 gallon and am considering either a 25 or 40, not sure which size would be best. After reading through some of this thread, id like to offer the following suggestion based on fan experience.

In the HVAC world, when a fan blade becomes coated and the curves fill in and flatten out the air flow reduces considerably. Could this be a part of what people are experiencing with the slime build up, in addition to the magnets? Just a thought is all. also, slime on the prop would increase the weight as well, just another thought.

I'm really considering one of these as i cant afford a vortech. What size would be best for a 90?

thanks,
Brian

Good point Brian. I think the slowing down of pump can be a combination of slime building up on the propeller blades changing the curvature and increasing resistance. That couples with the magnet of the pump being marginally adequate to begin with will cause the pump to slow down over time.

 

[FlyPenFly]

So one of my WP-25 controllers that was on a dimmer will now no longer change modes and none of the mode lights will light up either.

Pump still pushes water with the dimmer connected or disconnected but I think it's in just dumb mode. Nothing seems to make a difference. I can put it in 10 min feed mode.

Did I bust the controller by using a dimmer? Didn't have any problems before that.

 

[Allentown]

So one of my WP-25 controllers that was on a dimmer will now no longer change modes and none of the mode lights will light up either.

Pump still pushes water with the dimmer connected or disconnected but I think it's in just dumb mode. Nothing seems to make a difference. I can put it in 10 min feed mode.

Did I bust the controller by using a dimmer? Didn't have any problems before that.

No evidence to support this but anectodally it appears a slightly higher % of people with issues were using dimmers then werent. But, i have seen a couple inistances where just the stock controllers went bad while the pump was fine and vice versa.

Regarding the discussion above, i have dropped a full montly cleaning onto my maintanence calander. So now once a month i have to clean the sump, change the GFO reactor,, put new carbon in the canniseter, vacuum out the sump, clean the sump sponge, and disassemble and clean the jaebos (my once a month schedule is getting busy).

 

[FlyPenFly]

Regarding the discussion above, i have dropped a full montly cleaning onto my maintanence calander. So now once a month i have to clean the sump, change the GFO reactor,, put new carbon in the canniseter, vacuum out the sump, clean the sump sponge, and disassemble and clean the jaebos (my once a month schedule is getting busy).

Yeah, I'm totally going to reconsider switching to a smaller nano system next year just to cut down on maintenance time. Cleaning out a 5 gallon sump is just so much easier than cleaning a 30 gallon one.

 

[FlyPenFly]

Okay so I have a Full Apex unit, would I be able to use that and ditch the broken Jebao controller?

 

[ganjero]

So one of my WP-25 controllers that was on a dimmer will now no longer change modes and none of the mode lights will light up either.

Pump still pushes water with the dimmer connected or disconnected but I think it's in just dumb mode. Nothing seems to make a difference. I can put it in 10 min feed mode.

Did I bust the controller by using a dimmer? Didn't have any problems before that.

You are having the worst luck with these pumps. That one is strange since the pump stops working when the controller is completely busted, at least you still have flow.
How low did you have your dimmer? Did you try playing with the speed lock button even if the light is not on?

 

[ganjero]

Okay so I have a Full Apex unit, would I be able to use that and ditch the broken Jebao controller?

Yes, make your own cable or buy the Reef Angel cable and replace the connector that plugs in the control with a CAT5 Ethernet cable. Then you can ditch the dimmer too.

 

[Sacohen]

Okay so I have a Full Apex unit, would I be able to use that and ditch the broken Jebao controller?

Yes you can. I've posted the directions to do it here...

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=21997071&postcount=1711

 

[FlyPenFly]

Yes you can. I've posted the directions to do it here...

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=21997071&postcount=1711

Thanks, maybe I'll just do it for both.

 

[Sacohen]

I did it with my Reef Angle and you get a lot more control.
I have it programmed to cycle thru 5 different preset modes on a random basis.
Go to 30% speed at feeding and then when done go into Nutrient Transport Mode
Run at 30% at night and turn off during a water change.

 

[rrasco]

I also feel like most of the controller problems are related to the dimmers. I've been trying to tell people that's a bad idea.

On a side note, the controllers are pretty cheap inside, so I don't find it odd that there will be some failures. I know mine do a little weird stuff, like kicking out of feed mode 10 seconds after I initiate it. I'll be feeding and the pumps just turn back on. I'm still toying with the idea of building a replacement controller for these things, maybe even just a drop in board for their housing.

 

[FlyPenFly]

Maybe I'm just weird but I like the pumps running full speed during feeding with my return shut off.

Makes the fish chase after their food which is both fun for me and the fish.

I also think you shouldn't run lower flow at night. When SPS calcifies it actually has higher flow demands and a lot of that happens at night.

Having the pumps shut off for water changes though would be very nice.

 

[ClippersTown]

do you guys experience any noise issues? Once in a while, I start hearing this thing. I can hear it go on and off, on and off a few times. it stops, but happens again at a random time. Is that normal cause it's a knock off? (built with lesser quality?) Or should I return it