Jebao WP25 Information

WP25 Arrived!

WP25 Arrived!

My WP25 just came in yesterday and WOW! This thing rocks my 60gal rimless cube. I bought two, not being sure if I would need both or just one, but I think I am going to keep the second as a back up because there is no way my tank could handle two of these at the same time. I have an Apex but I am not sure what all I need to get this thing running on it. For now I am just using the Jebao control. What module and cable do I need to get it running on the Apex?
 
This is not my work and I can't post to other forums, but this was found on some forum in New York City (Wink)

For Neptune Apex:

You will need:

A Reef Angel Jebao Cable. That's it. No need for the Jebao controller box anymore.
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or

0-10v analog input PWM module:
Search ebay for LED DIMMER PWM 10 A.12VDC-24 VDC; POT. or 0-10V control
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Cat5e ethernet cord

Wire nuts
or
Solder and heat shrink tubing

(optional) Solid core wires (or wires that can handle up to 6A) stevesleds.com has some.

Directions:

Unscrew the controller casing

P2190005_zps108350d0.jpg


24- is blue
24+ is reddish brown
VA is green yellow and remains untouched

Cut the blue and red wire about halfway down, so you have enough wire connected to the controller still, and some down the cord to the pump. You can also desolder the wires from the 24+ and 24- points, but this is more difficult.

Connect solid core wire to extend the wire length with wire nuts, solder, or some way to connect the wires securely. This makes it easier to work with.

The 0-10v PWM module terminals look like this -+ +-

The first left side -(blue) and +(red) go to the pump wires

The next right side +(red) -(blue) are the ones connected to the controller internals 24+ and 24- points

For the wire to connect to the apex VDM ports, you can buy the Neptune cable ~$15, or do the following.

Cut one end off a Cat 5e ethernet cord.

Keep the following wires:
orange/white wire (positive) - orange wire (negative)
blue/white wire (positive) - green wire (negative)

When plugged into the first VDM port, blue/white wire, green wire is V1, oranges are V2
Second port, blue white green is V3, oranges V4

On the 0-10v module for V1, connect blue/white to + on 0-10v control input terminal , green to - control.

Put the controller back together in a project box, do a really good job with electrical tape taping the loose box together, or fit it all inside somehow and screw back together.

Create profiles to control the pump. The original controller mode are kept, so you can use the Apex to set intensity.

The easiest profiles are ramping profiles throughout the day, like this:

Outlet - Base_Var1 (for V1)

Set PM-Else
If Time 07:00 to 10:00 Then AM-Else
If Time 10:01 to 21:00 Then Day-Else
If Time 21:01 to 23:00 Then PM-Else
If FeedA 000 Then Feed

(feed would be a profile to allow the feed mode)

Profile name: AM-Else

Control type: Ramp

Ramp time (minutes): 1

Start Intensity: 60
End Intensity: 60

(this makes the pump run at 60% power, but if you use the ELSE mode on the controller, it simulates reef crest mode on a vortech, but at 60% overall power)

A midday profile can be made to use a higher intensity, and the PM one can use a lower one.

This barely touches on what can be programmed. If you set the pump on H1 (full power), you can create your own wave mode, like this (borrowed from Kenargo's Tunze profiles)

Profile name: Day Rt
Type: pump
Minimum Intensity: 30
Maximum Intensity: 100
Sync: Enabled
Divide-by 10: Enabled
Initial off time: 4
On time: 8
Off time: 0

Profile name: Day Lt
Type: pump
Minimum Intensity: 30
Maximum Intensity: 100
Sync: Enabled
Divide-by 10: Enabled
Initial off time: 0
On time: 8
Off time: 4

(This creates a huge syncronized wave between two pumps)

You can also use the Weather profiles to control the pump. The Vortech profiles do not work.
 
Anyone played around with the controller, probably replaced the knob, to lengthen the pause time n w1 mode. I find it too short even if the knob is set to minimum
 
Anyone played around with the controller, probably replaced the knob, to lengthen the pause time n w1 mode. I find it too short even if the knob is set to minimum

Lowering the supply to 12v does not affect the timing in w1 mode. It only affects the speed of the pump. If you have adapter for those external harddisk, that one perfectly fit as 12v supply.
 
I have not seem anyone try to change the frequency of the wave or how long the pause is.
This is the first complaint I've heard to that effect.
It can easily be done with a third party controller like an Apex or Reef Angel.
 
After all the hype, I went ahead and ordered a WP-25 from Fish Street. Ordered Wednesday, 07/31, shipped 08/01, sitting on my doorstep 08/05! That's 3 business day delivery from Hong Kong to Houston, TX - pretty impressive. I ran the pump in a bucket w/ vinegar and water for a couple hours, then put it into my 90 gallon tank. I removed 2 Koralia 750's, so now have the WP-25 on one side, Koralia 1050 on the other, aimed at each other from opposite sides. Flow is great. As others have said, the flow is pretty narrow close to the WP-25, but does a great job by the middle and far side. I'm probably going to get another to replace the K1050. Running in Else mode now as I haven't had much time to play with it.
 
I'm about to purchase a WP25 with Jebao Ajustable Voltage Power Supply Driver. I going to use it on my shallow frag tank (12"). What this I read that if power is lost the pump lose it setting?

This can be bad for me as at maximum blast it would most likely create wave that go over the rim. So my question is what is the default setting?
 
hmm.. maybe I'll put this on hold. Just this thread alone have hand full of people have problem losing setting after a power outage. Just can't take that risk. Maybe G2 they will have all the bugs worked out. :sad2:

People reporting different issues are using the led dimmer, this makes the controller work at a voltage it wasn't designed for. It was designed to work at 24V. It isn't a bug or design problem.
 
When I was using my RKE controller to turn off the two WPs at night, one of the pumps did frequently lose its setting and reverted to factory setting at H, never to W1 or other modes. I know the setting must be retained in some kind of RAM but prolonged loss of power may cause the setting to be lost. I have since stopped using the RKE to turn off the pumps at night and now using the light sensors so the controller never loses power and I have never lost the setting.
 
People reporting different issues are using the led dimmer, this makes the controller work at a voltage it wasn't designed for. It was designed to work at 24V. It isn't a bug or design problem.

Ha ic thank for the clarification. Led dimmer work of variable resistor technically speaking once is set to an position even lost power those setting shouldn't change weird lol. I'll going to place and order and give it a shot. You guys think by any chance Jebao would come out with a smaller model then WP25.
 
i have heard they may be comming out with a wp10 but not for certain.

What would be nice for nano tank. Oh one more question so I read the G2 controller have new setting to adjust the flow to be 100%, 75%, and 50% power. So if I also combine that with a variable power supply and set it at 12v that mean the flow can get even lower correct to 50%, 37.5% and 25%.
 
i saw one of these on ebay for $80 with free expedited shipping and i couldnt resist. should be here by the end of the week. i already have an mp10 and an apex jr. controller but i dont have the VDM module. can i still control the jebao pump without the VDM module?
 
i saw one of these on ebay for $80 with free expedited shipping and i couldnt resist. should be here by the end of the week. i already have an mp10 and an apex jr. controller but i dont have the VDM module. can i still control the jebao pump without the VDM module?

I don't thank it can be control by VDM. I saw an Q/A on fish market someone ask about controlling with 0-10V and the reply was no.
 
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