Jims 16" bubble

[rad1]

Thanks every one.

Thought I'd mention before I finally go to bed, I originally planed on building a square stand just because a round one would be so much harder to build. But I'm looking into finding something the right diameter (around15-16") something like the big paper forms used for concrete, to use as a form to mold several sheets of thin plywood on to make a round stand. If any one has any experience with that kind of thing sing out.

good night all

Jim

a bent plywood stand would be phenomenal. that illustration for the stand is also great.

 

[GF3]

Man your fast with the computer! Thats a good idea, I had thought of something like that but have a bit of a space problem. What I have in mind is a cylinder with a square base I can slide my laptop case under, next up a space for sump that would have a door to hide the mess, above that & just below the top a open side with a slot for drinks etc., then the top with tank. This part is still very much a work in progress, & kinda depends on what kind of materials I come up with & what the most practical design is considering skills & tools at hand.

I sorta get what you are describing a bit, perhaps a napkin sketch of your idea visualized and I could whip up a quick model. Honestly, what I did there took all of like 5 or 6 minutes to do the first time, and seriously like 45 seconds to add that shelf the 2nd time. Ill have a decade of workplace experience in 3D CAD this coming May, and like 5 years of training between HS and College, so its really 2nd nature to me to do something that simple... When you ask me to design out the stand with built-in sump, stress test it, detail it out into individual parts drawings and make up a materials list, then ill send you a bill! LOL

 

[JasonBJones]

Very cool concept. I really like the way you used the T at the bottom for both the drain and return plumbing.

Unfortunately, the more I think through this, the less I think your overflow concept will work. Regardless of how high you bring the plumbing back up, a siphon will be created and will drain the entire tank. What determines where the level of the water will drain to when you lose power is the height of the drain in the system, not the point where the water stops ascending and starts descending. Think about when you put a tube in to do a water change. The tube rises above the water line in the tank and will continue draining until the inlet of the tube equals the water level (i.e. when you pull the tube out or the tank is drained). As long as the exit part of the tube is below the inlet, it will continue draining regardless of how high the tubing goes above the waterline. I think this same concept will play out here.

I am trying to think through a way that would shut it off when power is lost, but I can't come up with anything...

 

[JasonBJones]

I think the only way to make it work would be to put the sump above the tank and pump the water up to the sump and have it drain back to the tank. You would have to set the drain from the sump so that if it lost power, not much water would drain back into the tank so it wouldn't overflow.

Otherwise, you will have to make the drain come up to near the top of the tank so that not much water can drain out when power is lost.

 

[Hugo Tait]

Nice idea for the overflow!
I've been building a bowl like this for about two years now and couldn't think of a cost effective way to build a round stand. What return are you using- I assume it will be the only form of water movement to keep the view equipment free? I'm having trouble creating surface agitation from the same plumbing you have at around 2,000 l/hr.
Are you relying on one-way valves for the return pipe?

 

[Hugo Tait]

Very cool concept. I really like the way you used the T at the bottom for both the drain and return plumbing.

Unfortunately, the more I think through this, the less I think your overflow concept will work.

Would the siphon not preferentially suck air from the valve at the top rather than water, thereby breaking the siphon?

 

[GF3]

Yea, um, the way i read the overflow sketch, the T at the very top would be open to air, water level in the piping would equalize to the water level in the tank, anything over max water level would simply flow over the U and down into the sump. This design "should" work just fine since gravity is doing the work, not a siphon effect. just be sure to leave the open end of the T a couple inches over the top of the tank so you don't flood your overflow.

 

[fullmonti]

For those who are concerned about a siphon.

This is what I planed. For the life of me I can't see how this would create a siphon. Looks like it could/would easily draw air & drain.

But if for some reason it didn't I could do this, even more air to stop a siphon.


One thing I didn't consider was what Hugo Tait ask about a check valve to keep the return line from draining the tank when the power goes out. IMG I will definitely have to do that, probably put two in just in case. Hope they don't create back pressure?

 

[fullmonti]

I sorta get what you are describing a bit, perhaps a napkin sketch of your idea visualized and I could whip up a quick model. Honestly, what I did there took all of like 5 or 6 minutes to do the first time, and seriously like 45 seconds to add that shelf the 2nd time. Ill have a decade of workplace experience in 3D CAD this coming May, and like 5 years of training between HS and College, so its really 2nd nature to me to do something that simple... When you ask me to design out the stand with built-in sump, stress test it, detail it out into individual parts drawings and make up a materials list, then ill send you a bill! LOL

I appreciate the offer of help, & may take you up on it at some point. For now the problem is not coming up with the design or visualizing it, it is deciding on what materials are most available/practical & my skills to build & tools to do it.

Thanks
Jim

 

[GF3]

Haha! I was just kidding about providing any services for a fee, but seriously you supply a sketch, ill whip up a quick model of your idea (in relative scale) so you have something a little cleaner to look at while brainstorming how to go about this build.

 

[Agu]

For those who are concerned about a siphon.

This is what I planed. For the life of me I can't see how this would create a siphon. Looks like it could/would easily draw air & drain.

But if for some reason it didn't I could do this, even more air to stop a siphon.


One thing I didn't consider was what Hugo Tait ask about a check valve to keep the return line from draining the tank when the power goes out. IMG I will definitely have to do that, probably put two in just in case. Hope they don't create back pressure?

What you posted will break the siphon. I suggest you do a rough build prior to building the stand to see if it actually works.

Check valves only work if they're used regularly. You almost have to schedule a daily power outage so the valve seats and purges any crud. If you go for days or weeks without using the check valve crud will build up and the valve won't seal. It might not be a major leak but with an extended power outage the tank could drain down.

 

[fullmonti]

Thanks, that's good to know about the check valve. I have a reef controller on my big take, I could have that pump turned off for one minute a day. Do you think that would do it?

 

[JasonBJones]

Somehow I totally missed the opening at the top of the drain line, should work great as others said. Sorry about that and great planning!

 

[fullmonti]

No worries. I am going to do a rough build tomorrow when I do another leak test, just to work out any bugs there may be.

Jim

 

[ange062]

This looks like a very cool project, can't wait to see it up and running.

 

[Girly Gears]

OOOOOOoooooooOOOOOO! This is one of the coolest builds I have seen so far on RC. Hows the testing coming along? I have been pondering a odd shaped nano myself, hopefully I can pull it off as nicely as you have!

 

[fullmonti]

good news, & good news, & bad news

good news, & good news, & bad news

I'll start with the good news, no more leaks the silicone worked. 2nd The overflow system works just fine. Now for the bad news, there is a bottleneck! Water can't get out of the tank as fast as it can flow through the overflow system. I was using a mag3 pump for the test. That amount of flow was just barely enough to not really enough. Any way the water does not back up in the overflow pipes, it backs up in the tank. I think there is a restricted in the 1 1/2" T where the 1/2" return line goes through. CRAP The only thing I can think of to do is order a 2" bulkhead & drill bit. Right now I have a 3/4" line coming out of the 1 1/2" T going to the overflow system, there is a very small chance the bottleneck could be there. I'll try it with a bigger line in the morning, but I don't really think that's it.

Here is an example of the distortion that comes with round tanks.

I am thankful for the suggestion to do a plumbing test before continuing with the rest of the build. I'll keep you posted on how it works out. And thanks for all the support.

Jim

Hey Girly Gears FWIW I grew up in Daytona Beach

 

[stevie-o]

this is really cool

 

[jcal2005]

Wow, this is a really cool build! I like your living room too! Can't wait to see finished product!

 

[mrbncal]

Awesome idea.