Jims 16" bubble
- Thread starter fullmonti
- Start date
fullmonti
now is the time
That would be easy enough, but I really wanted to not have any pumps or pipes in the tank.
I did another test with a new T, took a 1" line out of the side no valve or no return line from below going through. Pumped return water over the top of the tank, so there would be a clear drain just to see how much difference there would be. This worked pretty well, water level stayed about 2" above the overflow level. I'm working on a 1 1/2" T variation that I hope will work. If not I have ordered a 2" bulkhead & drill bit, but hope I don't have to use it. New test tomorrow.
Jim
I did another test with a new T, took a 1" line out of the side no valve or no return line from below going through. Pumped return water over the top of the tank, so there would be a clear drain just to see how much difference there would be. This worked pretty well, water level stayed about 2" above the overflow level. I'm working on a 1 1/2" T variation that I hope will work. If not I have ordered a 2" bulkhead & drill bit, but hope I don't have to use it. New test tomorrow.
Jim
OrionJRS2009
New member
so innovative! Cant wait to see how this turns out!
saltjohnswharf
Conscientious Member
Cool idea. Hope the bugs get worked out. Redrilling the overflow can be risky but may be neccesary. Have a hose on hand so water is always running while you drill. Good luck
fullmonti
now is the time
Looks like the return line going through the T disrupted the free flow of water through the T to drain. I did a test with 1/2" CPVC pipe (smaller than 1/2" PVC) & that helped. I then did a test with new T with a plug in the bottom & drilled a hole in the plug on the opposite side from the drain & epoxied CPVC pipe in. With a smaller pipe & it pushed to the opposite side from the drain it did keep up with mag3 pump. But I would like a bit more flow than that. So when I get the 2" bulkhead I'll see how it will fit & go from there.
I have even been thinking of ordering another bubble & drill for a drain & two returns with out using bulkheads. Drill holes the size of the pipes only then epoxy them in. With out bulkheads there would be room in the drain assembly for the three. By having two return lines I could have a alternating current.
Not sure how this will end up, but I'm sure it will be worked out.
Jim
I am more & more grateful for the suggestion to do a rough build before continuing. This is a pain now, but after every thing else was built this would be a nightmare!
I have even been thinking of ordering another bubble & drill for a drain & two returns with out using bulkheads. Drill holes the size of the pipes only then epoxy them in. With out bulkheads there would be room in the drain assembly for the three. By having two return lines I could have a alternating current.
Not sure how this will end up, but I'm sure it will be worked out.
Jim
I am more & more grateful for the suggestion to do a rough build before continuing. This is a pain now, but after every thing else was built this would be a nightmare!
Last edited:
Girly Gears
New member
Cool, glad to see someone from home on RC. I have the toughest time finding people around here. Maybe I should just start a VOCO reef club...and I believe we have a "don't ask, don't tell" policy when it comes to expenses...lol. It helps keeps the spouses from packing up and moving out! Good luck with the flow issues, hope it works out.
fullmonti
now is the time
I got a little busy at work for awhile. But I did end up drilling for a 2" bulkhead, did a leak test & it too leaked. Just siliconed it in. I came up with what I think is a much better way to put the return line up through the 2" drain line (will take some pix tomorrow). Was using a mag drive 3 for return pump test, but wanted a bit more flow so I got a mag drive 5 for new test tomorrow or the next day. More pix soon!
Jim
Jim
fullmonti
now is the time
happy camper
happy camper
This is the new plumbing rig.
I thought using the T was causing turbulence & slowing the flow of water out of the tank, got the bright idea a 90 might work better. So it took couple of tries but I finally got a good clean hole drilled in the back of a 2" 90. Thought if the return pipe was pushed to the back of the 90 it would let water flow more freely. I used 1/2" CPVC pipe instead of PVC because it is much smaller. 1/2" CPVC is this still bigger ID than a 1/2" barb fitting ID. I glued a CPVC coupler to a CPVC valve & glued that into the 2" 90 with weld on glue/cement (a two part glue for plastic). I discovered a 1/2" CPVC coupler fits perfect inside a 1/2" PVC coupler, so I could glue a 1/2" coupler on with a 1/2" barb fitting. I used some epoxy on the outside just for added support.
The really good news is when I tried a new flow test it WORKS GREAT!!! It worked so well with a mag5 pump I tried a old mag7 pump I had & the drain easily kept up with it.
You can kinda see I stepped down to 1 1/2" pipe after the 2" 90 then down to 1" for the overflow system. You can also kinda see I cut the 1" Ts down & glued them together so they would not be so wide, so they can fit better in the rectangular tubing latter.
Also will pick up a piece of 15" PVC sewer pipe for the stand in a day or two (found some scrap I got for a favor). It is about a 1/2" thick, more than strong enough. So I think I will take the earlier suggestion & just use the wallsl of the PVC pipe to hold the water for the sump.
It's coming together!
Jim
happy camper
This is the new plumbing rig.
I thought using the T was causing turbulence & slowing the flow of water out of the tank, got the bright idea a 90 might work better. So it took couple of tries but I finally got a good clean hole drilled in the back of a 2" 90. Thought if the return pipe was pushed to the back of the 90 it would let water flow more freely. I used 1/2" CPVC pipe instead of PVC because it is much smaller. 1/2" CPVC is this still bigger ID than a 1/2" barb fitting ID. I glued a CPVC coupler to a CPVC valve & glued that into the 2" 90 with weld on glue/cement (a two part glue for plastic). I discovered a 1/2" CPVC coupler fits perfect inside a 1/2" PVC coupler, so I could glue a 1/2" coupler on with a 1/2" barb fitting. I used some epoxy on the outside just for added support.
The really good news is when I tried a new flow test it WORKS GREAT!!! It worked so well with a mag5 pump I tried a old mag7 pump I had & the drain easily kept up with it.
You can kinda see I stepped down to 1 1/2" pipe after the 2" 90 then down to 1" for the overflow system. You can also kinda see I cut the 1" Ts down & glued them together so they would not be so wide, so they can fit better in the rectangular tubing latter.
Also will pick up a piece of 15" PVC sewer pipe for the stand in a day or two (found some scrap I got for a favor). It is about a 1/2" thick, more than strong enough. So I think I will take the earlier suggestion & just use the wallsl of the PVC pipe to hold the water for the sump.
It's coming together!
Jim
fullmonti
now is the time
If you'd like to see my main tank?
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=18698907#post18698907
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=18698907#post18698907
