Just Ordered My Rock Last Night! (Excited + Questions...)

I almost think I need to go back to school and take more Chemistry just to keep up with my tank parameters! I still mainly use my API ammonia test rather than my Seachem ones (which I have free and total ammonia, so you'd think that would be better!) simply because the Seachem ones give me a headache just trying to figure them out! :(
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13004686#post13004686 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by HowardW
I've been using the Seachem Ammonia Alert for many years and mine always work exactly as advertised and are quite accurate. Keep in mind they work better after they've been in the tank for a couple days to acclimate to your water in my experience. Also, they test for free 'harmful' ammonia, not the total.

From the Seachem FAQ's page:

Q: I have another test kit that showed positive for ammonia but the Ammonia Alertâ"žÂ¢never changed color. Is it still good?

A: Most likely the other test kit was testing for total ammonia. Total ammonia includes both free (NH3) and ionic (NH4+) ammonia. The Ammonia Alertâ"žÂ¢only measure free ammonia because that is the harmful form. Ionic ammonia cannot harm your fish. However, as pH rises, a greater and greater percentage of the total ammonia will be converted from ionic ammonia to free ammonia, so knowledge of total ammonia is also important.

Q: Does Ammonia Alert properly detect toxic ammonia in the presence of Prime?

A: If the Prime has not complexed with the ammonia yet it will detect it, but it won't detect it if the Prime has already complexed it (which makes sense because when Prime has complexed with the ammonia it is no longer toxic). If you want to know the total ammonia level (free, ionized and complexed) you would need to run a Total Ammonia Test (like with our MultiTest: Free & Total Ammonia.

Q: I bought a Ammonia alert from Pet store but it doesn't not work at all after following all the instruction -How can I get my money refund back as it is not working at all and the COLOR NEVER CHANGES?

A:The technology of this device is very unique to our company and has been an excellent seller for many years to hobbyists, breeders, and public facilities alike. The Ammonia Alert is designed to change color in the presence of free (gaseous) ammonia, not ammonium (ionized ammonia) which is harmless to fish and other aquatic life. The longer it is left in a particular body of water/aquarium, the more sensitive it becomes to that water. Most conventional test kits test total ammonia which is a combination of free ammonia + ammonium = total ammonia. PH is the determining factor on what type is present. If your pH is acidic (below 7.0), it is chemically impossible for ammonia (harmful gas) to exist. Yet a total ammonia test kit will register a reading because it detects both the free ammonia (harmful gas) and ammonium (harmless ionized form of ammonia). The more basic your pH becomes, the greater the chance of ammonia existing. Example: If you have 1.0 ppm of total ammonia and your pH is below 7.0, then 1.0 ppm will exist as ammonium. Ex. If you have 1.0 ppm of total ammonia and your pH is 7.6 (slightly basic), then of that 1.0 ppm total ammonia......only .2 or so would exist as a gas and the other .8 would exist as ammonium.
There is one simple way to tell if our Ammonia Alert is functioning properly, simply hold the sensor over an open bottle of something containing ammonia (Windex glass cleaner will work) as it will detect the fumes/gas and change color. Plese be sure not to touch the sensor in the middle of the plastic card as the oils from your skin may clog the pores on the sensor.

I did not think to test mine as suggested here. Nevertheless, i don't miss it and prefer to check my ammonia twice a day (and more) while cycling with my API kit.

HowardW, you've posted that you use SeaChem Stablizier when cycling a new tank?
 
I don't buy that explanation as the ph of my tank water was between 7.6 and 7.8. I had many customers also confirm that the results weren't accurate. Their water was the same ph. Maybe you've had success with it for long term readings on an already cycled tank but for detecting ammonia while your tank is cycling it's inaccurate and useless.

After reading the complicated chemistry part of it 5 or 6 times it occurred to me that maybe since saltwater ph is normally 8.3 or so it works for saltwater but not freshwater. If it does the company needs to relabel it.
 
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